High/Low
The Chou Fits
Who knew that brussels sprouts could be so good? By Claire Tansey
The House on Parliment, Sautéed sprouts, $4.95/ Gio Rana's Really, Really Nice Restaurant, Brussels sprouts slaw, $4.95
Image credit: Finn O'Hara
Of all the vegetables in the produce aisle, more than rutabaga or even okra, the brussels sprout is the most maligned, the most despised by young and old, the most unlikely to appear on elegant menus. But like other rejects, this diminutive cabbage is just misunderstood, too often the whiffy, grey victim of 30 minutes in boiling water. If only it could get a second chance, this humble veg— a revelation when treated right—could win hearts.
That chance comes from Gio Rana’s Really, Really Nice Restaurant (1220 Queen St. E., 416-469-5225). On a list of entirely appealing vegetable side dishes, brussels sprouts slaw is the standout. The raw sprouts are shredded thinly, tossed with red wine vinaigrette and adorned with little nubs of asiago and crispy pancetta. Crunchy, sweet, sour and salty, here the sprouts are barely recognizable, a visionary reinvigoration of an infamous vegetable.
The House on Parliament (456 Parliament St., 416-925-4074) keeps it simple: a two-minute dip in boiling water, then a quick sauté in butter and white wine ($4.95 as a side; also plated with dishes like grilled liver on stilton polenta, $12.95). Even without the gilding of pork and cheese (which, let’s face it, could make even dirt enticing), the little gems are sweet, with enough bite to dispel those mushy memories. What’s the secret? “They’re not overcooked,” says chef Joan Olsen. “People are always really surprised that they like brussels sprouts.” Doesn’t every cabbage deserve a second chance?
TEST Originally published October 2006
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