October 2006
High Notes
Pre-opera dining should be worth its own ovation. The best places to eat before the fat lady sings
Image credit: Richard Johnson
Ultra Supper Club
With stellar plates from chef Chris Zielinski, a treasure-packed wine list and a laid-back lounge feel, Ultra will help any casual opera fan prepare for three hours of Sieglinde and Brünnhilde.
Midi Bistro
The place to go for authentic southern French when that Ring Cycle subscription has already broken the bank. Don’t miss the Farçous Claudine, a fluffy Languedoc spinach pancake with shallots and bacon. Moules and fantastic frites come a half-dozen different ways.
Japango
122 Elizabeth St., 416-599-5557
The city disappears when you enter this fabulous shrine to ultra-fresh fish. If
the intimate space (just 20 seats) and straight-out-of-Harajuku feel don’t grab your
attention, sushi master Osaamu Fukushigo’s handiwork surely will.
Bymark
A hit with the city’s fat but discerning wallets, Mark McEwan’s opus always elevates fine dining to happy excess. Roasted Quebec chicken with late-summer truffle risotto and braised leek hearts should sustain even the most peckish of Valkyries; if that won’t do, indulge in the one-pound whole-roasted foie gras ($130).
Rain
Guy and Michael Rubino offer far better reasons to visit than you’ll ever see on their Food Network series: witness such Asian-influenced mains as plum-rubbed Arctic char dressed with sea urchin roe and ribbons of its own crisp skin, or decadent Szechuan Berkshire pork with hot and sour carrot froth. The cool decor with its backlit bar and walls of water—imagine that Jacques Cousteau and Miuccia Prada had an architect son—still dazzles.








