Weekly Lunch Pick
Hank’s
Jamie Kennedy’s midday spot near the St. Lawrence Market offers wallet-friendly prices, impeccable freshness and quite possibly the best sandwiches downtown By Renée Suen
Locavore love: Jamie Kennedy knows his turkey
Image credit: Renee Suen
The place: Jamie Kennedy’s eponymous (his first name is actually Henry) and spacious nook offers free wi-fi, made-to-order sandwiches and coffee brewed by award-winning baristas. For no-nonsense lunchers, there are small tables placed in front of a wooden banquette; those who prefer to linger can enjoy the low, chocolate-coloured lounge chairs. The charming decor is all but wasted on most eyes, which are trained squarely on the tempting goodies in the refrigerator case.
The crowd: Foot traffic brings in slow-food nuts, canoodling 20-somethings and older sorts who have time to sip away the afternoon (wines from JK’s famous list are available for midday tipples). Lines at the cash can get a bit long as office dwellers stop by for desk-ready sandwiches.
The deal: The day’s special is listed on a small chalkboard. Locally sourced ingredients are transformed into simple soups (cup $3, bowl $4.50) and stews ($4–$6.50). Slices of St. John’s Bakery bread sandwich large helpings of egg salad ($5.50), mushroom ($6.25), meat loaf ($6.75) and roast beef ($7.50). Side salads are also on offer, like the havarti and chicken on mixed greens ($4.75). House-baked goods, prepared meats and self-serve coffee keep the neighbourhood folk coming back.
The dish: We start with a cup of vegan stew ($4) that’s thick with crunchy asparagus spears, eggplant purée, chunks of carrot, mushrooms and sweet onions. Next up, a mouth-stretching sandwich piled high with smoked turkey between slices of multigrain sourdough slathered with sweet red pepper paste and homemade mayo (half-sandwich $4.50, whole $7.50). The flavours and textures are exquisitely balanced: sharp ewe’s milk cheddar is a nice contrast with the crisp mixed greens and a combination of red and green onions. The accompanying side of cucumber slices, however, is so salty that we wonder if it was meant as decoration.
The time: 32 minutes: five in line, seven waiting for the food and 20 to polish off the goods.
The cost: $16, including tax, tip and a triple ginger and lemon cookie (75 cents) for the road.
Hank’s, 9 1/2 Church St, 647-288-0670, hankstoronto.blogspot.com.
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