Like all arthropods, blue crabs must shed their shells to grow. Starting in late April, when Atlantic waters warm to 15° C, and extending through June, blue crabs scuttle up from the muddy depths to moult and breed in coastal shallows from Louisiana to Chesapeake Bay. When freshly moulted, these crustaceans become a seasonal delicacy: soft-shell crabs. Mandibles, eyes, mouth and gills removed at cooking time, the crabs are eaten whole, soft shells intact. At Chiado (864 College St., 416-538-1910), Albino Silva savours the sweetness of their meat and the gentle crunch of their shells. “It’s almost nutty,” he says. He likes to deep-fry them tempura style or with a crust of seasoned bread crumbs, serving them with a smoky purée of roasted sweet peppers. Martha Wright, of Starfish (100 Adelaide St. E., 416-366-7827), dredges the crabs in seasoned flour and pan-fries till crispy. “I’ll be pairing them with other springtime treats,” she says, “like fava beans, fiddleheads and wild leeks.” At Xam Yu (339 Spadina Ave., 416-340-8603), they’re deep-fried Hong Kong style in a batter with chilies and garlic. For sheer, blissful simplicity, The Fish Store (657 College St., 416-533‑2822) serves them grilled on Portuguese mafta buns. And if you want to cook your own, Bill’s Lobster (599 Gerrard St. E., 416-778‑0943) moves more than 5,000 live soft-shells a week in season; the friendly fishmongers will also dispatch and clean them for more squeamish cooks. Be sure to serve them the same day.