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The Grape Debate

More or less equidistant from Toronto, the wine regions of Niagara and Prince Edward County couldn’t be more different. Here, how the two areas stack up

In Niagara, frozen grapes are picked before dawn to make icewine
 
The County’s limestone-rich soil is ideal for pinot noir and chardonnay
The wine route may have gentle hills and quaint antique-laden villages, but it’s bisected by the non-postcard-worthy QEW.
The County is a sun-dappled peninsula south of Belleville. Visitors revel in the rural serenity.
With close to 15,000 acres of vineyards, the region is Canada’s undisputed powerhouse, producing three quarters of the country’s grapes. There are 68 VQA-approved wineries.
The county is still a fledgling territory, as vines weren’t planted in earnest until after the millennium. Having only attained VQA status in 2007, 14 wineries and counting have its stamp of approval.
With many vines reaching the 30-year-old mark, Niagara wines are hitting their prime. Look for light-sipping whites and bolder reds. Standouts: the prize-winning Flat Rock Cellars 2006 Riesling and Henry of Pelham 2005 Baco Noir Reserve.
Harsher winters and an abundance of limestone have produced citrusy whites and less-than-punchy reds. Try the zesty By Chadsey’s Cairns 2007 Riesling and Norman Hardie’s elegant 2007 Pinot Noir.
Buffered by the escarpment and Lake Ontario, Niagara has the perfect microclimate for making world-class icewine.
In a word: exclusivity. Because most wineries are small (many under 10 acres), the best vintages are sold only on the premises. Serious oenophiles can buy up a single lot.
The bulk of the wineries are sprawling, architect-designed manses where tastings involve an army of bartenders.
Many of the wineries reside in converted barns and rely on rustic charm. Oh, and the guy pouring the tastings? He’s the vintner.

Theatre, fudge and the Falls.
Artisanal cheese, heirloom veggies and Sandbanks Provincial Park.

Photographs: left by Arantxa Cedillo; right by Duarte Da Silva

Related:
Best Wines Under $10: The LCBO has recently obtained a rash of wallet-friendly new listings
Party Flavours: Ten must-have bottles for the party season
Hot Flash: The best Ontario wines from the 2007 vintage
Drink Outside the Box: The latest high-design (and high-tech) wine accessories

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