The temperature in Chiang Mai, Thailand, usually hovers around 25°C, and yet the city’s signa­ture dish is the perfect antidote to our sub-zero blues. At Sukhothai, a belly-warming bowl of chef Nuit Regular’s khao soi can take the chill off the coldest night. A trip to T&T or any large Asian supermarket will take care of the long ingredient list.

Khao Soi Paste
7 dried red chilies, coarsely crumbled
1 tbsp coriander seeds
2 tbsp thinly sliced lemon grass
2 tbsp sliced shallots
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 inch fresh turmeric root, coarsely chopped
4 thin slices fresh galangal, coarsely chopped
4 thin slices fresh ginger, coarsely chopped
1 tsp sea salt
2 tsp shrimp paste

Soak chilies in hot water until pliable, then drain. Toast coriander seeds in skillet over medium heat for 3 minutes, until fragrant. In a spice grinder, grind coriander to a powder. Add chilies and remaining ingredients, except shrimp paste, and grind until finely chopped. Add shrimp paste and grind again.

Thai Chicken Stock
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
5 coriander roots, crushed
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 onion, halved
1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp sea salt

Simmer ingredients, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth-lined sieve.

Chili Oil
3 tbsp sunflower oil
2 tbsp chili powder
1 tsp garlic salt
Pinch brown sugar and salt

Heat oil in small skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Stir in remaining ingredients and remove from heat. Stir before using.

Chicken Khao Soi
1 carton (33.8 oz) Aroy-D brand 100 per cent coconut milk, unshaken
2 lb skinless, boneless chicken breasts, thinly sliced crosswise
1 tbsp tapioca flour
3 tbsp sunflower oil
4 tsp curry powder
4 tsp packed brown sugar
Cooked thin, flat Chinese egg noodles
Deep-fried noodles
Chopped green onions and coriander

1. Freeze carton of coconut milk for 15 minutes. Cut top off carton and spoon out 1 cup thick milk from top and reserve. Toss chicken in tapioca flour and 1 tbsp oil until well coated.
2. In a wok or large, deep skillet, heat remaining oil over medium heat. Add khao soi paste and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add chicken, curry powder and brown sugar and stir-fry for about 3 minutes, until chicken loses its raw colour. Add the thick coconut milk and stir-fry for 2 minutes, until surface of sauce takes on an oily sheen. Add remaining coconut milk and 2 cups Thai chicken stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 3 minutes.
3. Divide noodles among 6 serving bowls and spoon chicken and broth over top. Garnish with fried noodles, green onions and coriander. Drizzle with chili oil to taste and serve with lime wedges. (Light soy sauce and pickled sour mustard are nice, too.)

Makes 6 servings