Cheap and cherubic dumplings fashioned from flour, potatoes, maybe an egg or two, gnocchi are the quintessential carb. With roots that reach back to Roman times, however, they were ready for a make-over. A few innovative chefs have modernized this humble comfort food in ways even Nonna would love.

Vertical's melt-in-your-mouth roasted butter­nut squash gnocchi spotlights the sweet veg by delicately tossing it in a velvety sage brown butter. A sprinkle of pine nuts adds crunch, while pink slivers of Swiss chard are as smooth as silk. $12 as an appetizer. 100 King St. W., 416-214-2252.

Centro elevates the classic recipe with perfectly al dente, plump yukon gold dumplings and tart arugula pesto. Semi-dried tomatoes wink at traditional marinara sauce; crammed with flavour, the tiny treasures nearly steal the show. Sinewy pieces of smoked chicken prove an unnecessary addition. $18. 2472 Yonge St., 416-483-2211.

The Rosebud's ricotta gnocchi are deeply comforting: pan-fried to crunchy on one side, light and fluffy in the middle, they retain their ricotta sweetness despite the lip-smacking flavour of the accompanying shiraz-braised short ribs. Dark and decadent, this is a decidedly masculine version of the classic. $22. 669 Queen St. W., 416-703-8810.