Weekly Lunch Pick
Globe Earth
A Rosedale bistro that puts a premium on local, seasonal ingredients By Andrew Brudz
The buttery grilled cheese oozes with Ontario cheeses
Image credit: Andrew Brudz
The place: Don’t be fooled by the address or the sleek decor: Globe Earth has more in common with Kensington Market than its posh neighbours. Chef Kevin McKenna sources most ingredients from no more than 100 kilometres away, so hungry diners can refuel while reducing their carbon footprint.
The crowd: Almost exclusively gossipy Rosedalites, flanked by shopping bags.
The deal: Each season, McKenna introduces a new lunch menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, pastas and something he calls “Canada’s finest plate.” (On our visit, it was a half Cornish hen with mashed red potatoes and vegetables.) Sumptuous desserts—including the incredible-sounding maple sugar tart with bacon cream—and a selection of cheeses round out the options.
The dish: The prosaically named “pig bits” ($5) looks better that it sounds and tastes better than it looks. A loose pork terrine, it’s served with crostini and a dab of potent mustard—it’s a welcome addition to the swine craze. The daily soup ($6) is a winter-perfect roasted parsnip purée with artichoke, thyme and pesto. The buttery grilled cheese ($10) oozes with three Ontario cheeses on thickly sliced bread; brie and cheddar prove no match for the strong goat cheese, which, in this case, isn’t a bad thing. But more caramelized onions would be welcome.
The time: A hefty 80 minutes, perhaps due to understaffing.
The cost: $31, including a cranberry juice ($3), tax and tip.
Globe Earth, 1055 Yonge St., 416-551-9890, globeearth.ca.
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