Weekly Lunch Pick
George
For a limited time, fine-dining establishment George is serving up an affordable prix-fixe lunch that sets the tone for spring By Davida Aronovitch
Pepper-crusted trout from George
Image credit: Photo by Davida Aronovitch
The place: Set in one of Queen Street East’s factory reincarnations (formerly a chocolate works, circa 1850), the space is French villa meets industrial chic. An unorthodox pairing of exposed brick and overhead piping with such provincial effects as arching lattice dividers and warm hardwood makes for a stylishly snug atmosphere. Pillow-adorned leather booths along the back wall beckon and foreshadow food coma.
The crowd: The midday, mid-week scene is a tranquil amalgam: a smattering of business execs from the nearby financial district, media types from adjacent offices and tea-and-scone-style lunching ladies.
The deal: In the spirit of the season (and likely the recession), George is offering a pre-patio prix fixe for $22 (the average price of a main at dinner). The lunch special includes a choice of one à la carte item, a side soup or salad and tea or coffee. The idea behind the thrifty initiative is to test drive al fresco–friendly dishes for the opening of the courtyard terrace in mid-May.
The dish: Veal figures prominently among chef Lorenzo Loseto’s lunchtime recommendations, and we are happy to oblige. A supple, salty cut of tenderloin is offset by tangy-skinned orange slices; delicately crispy angel hair frites are piled high. A rich and rustic peppercorn sauce laced with orange jus surrounds a bed of charred onion–dotted avocado soffrito that makes for a refreshing finish. A juicy veal burger embodies spring. Topped with sweet and slightly tart apple slaw, it’s a perfect foil to sharp cheddar; two rounds of grilled naan keep it light and lunchable. For plein-air fare, the patio-perfect pepper-crusted trout is expertly cooked and served over light and kicky curried lentil and vegetables with black trumpet mushrooms.
The time: If 90 minutes can be spared, attentive, unhurried service invites a relaxed approach, but the pre-patio menu is meant to get lunchers in and out in about an hour.
The cost: Lunch for two $58, including tax and tip.
George, 111C Queen St. E. (at Church St.), 416-863-6006, www.georgeonqueen.com.
Comments
Comment on this story
Neither Davida Aronovitch nor Toronto Life necessarily agree with the comments posted here. Editors will not correct spelling or grammar. Toronto Life reserves the right to edit or delete comments entirely. Read our full policy
Some articles on this site require that you have a Torontolife.com account in order to comment, and this is one of them. If you do not have an account, you can register now.
Related
More Weekly Lunch Pick Articles
- Hank's (Redux)
- Oro
- Anh Dao
- Miga
- Arepa Café
- Buca
- Globe Earth
- The Grilled Cheese
- La Bréhandaise Crêperie
- Delica Kitchen
See all Weekly Lunch Pick articles »