Weekly Lunch Pick
Four
Bay Street gets health-conscious at this subterranean jewel. With nothing over 650 calories, the emphasis is on flavour, not fat By Renée Suen
Primrose PATH: The 650-calorie bison burger at Four is
one of the underground city's better lunch options
Image credit: Renee Suen
The place: Set in glass, stainless steel and black lacquer, Four skews toward sleek understatement. The darkened ceiling, exposed pipes and long glass bar are reminiscent of a nightclub.
The crowd: The room teems with smartly dressed business types fitting in a quick lunch between meetings.
The deal: Besides low-fat pastas and proteins—steamed, grilled or broiled—sandwiches promise comfort and value ($8.50–$12.50). Those sensitive to gluten, lactose or casein will be pleased with the lunch options.
The meal: The bison burger ($12.50), grilled medium rare, arrives tucked between leaves of Boston lettuce and tomato in a baseball-size multigrain bun. A thin layer of jalapeño mayonnaise adds oomph. The most captivating item on the plate, however, is the romaine side salad with honey-miso dressing. Satisfied, we treat ourselves with a shot glass of creamy tiramisù ($2) and spend the next few minutes debating what is more surprising: that the creamy dessert clocks in at under 200 calories or that it costs only a toonie.
The time: A shockingly swift 37 minutes.
The cost: $26.50, including tax and tip and a wallet-cinching glass of “fresh-squeezed” blueberry lemonade ($7).
Four, 187 Bay St., Commerce Court South, Concourse Level, 416-368-1444, fourtoronto.com.
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