In the Flesh
August 2007
Carve into these flavourful trends at the meat counter
Olliffe
Image credit: Edward Pond
Charcuterie
Cold cuts have grown up. Charcuterie is all over Toronto’s top restaurant menus at venues such as Cava, Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar and Bymark. Part of a movement toward artisanal products, the meat is generally salted, smoked, dried or cooked in-house. Nostalgia plays a part, too: chefs are trying to duplicate Mama’s home cooking from the old country.
Now the trend is moving beyond restaurants to home kitchens. French ham from Bayonne (Cumbrae’s) is a current star. A cross between the nutty, dry serrano from Spain and silky prosciutto di Parma, it has a delicate taste. Real Italian mortadella is now available in Toronto, too (Cheese Boutique). Imported from Emiglia-Romagna, Italy’s famous gastronomic region, it’s more flavourful than the made-in-Canada version and comes tinged with berries and peppercorns.
Traditional Cuts
They sound less appealing, but old-fashioned cuts—pork shoulder, pig’s foot and lamb’s neck—are often the tastiest, particularly in stews. Traditional butchers such as Charlie’s Meat and Seafood offer great flank steak and oxtail. Little Portugal’s Talho e Salsicharia Rui Gomes offers a good selection of offal, including top-notch tripe.
Rare Breeds
For great flavour, gourmands opt for meats from heritage breeds. Berkshire Pork—considered the Kobe beef of the pork world—is the meat du jour. The breed dates back four centuries, and is renowned for being tender and tasty; gorgeously marbled loin and leg roasts can be ordered from Cumbrae’s. Kobe beef is also gaining popularity. But the Wagyu cow must be raised and slaughtered in Japan to earn the exclusive Kobe moniker. Now Alberta ranchers are raising the Wagyu cow according to Japanese practices—giving the cattle daily massages and copious amounts of beer. Taste the decadent results at Olliffe.
Organic and Naturally Raised
The world is finally waking up to the potential dangers of industrially farmed meat. The list of offenders includes antibiotics, hormones and nasty chemicals. Olliffe carries certified organic poultry and naturally raised foie gras; both come courtesy of La Ferme, a supplier for some of the city’s high-end restaurants. Meat on the Beach guarantees that its cuts are free of hormones and antibiotics.
Game
Not only does game offer big, wild flavours, it’s lower in fat than the majority of mainstream meats. White House Meats supplies succulent venison sausage and other game cuts for the grill. The Healthy Butcher carries an impressive selection of game, including elk, bison and wild boar from top-quality Ontario suppliers.
Charcuterie
Cold cuts have grown up. Charcuterie is all over Toronto’s top restaurant menus at venues such as Cava, Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar and Bymark. Part of a movement toward artisanal products, the meat is generally salted, smoked, dried or cooked in-house. Nostalgia plays a part, too: chefs are trying to duplicate Mama’s home cooking from the old country.
Now the trend is moving beyond restaurants to home kitchens. French ham from Bayonne (Cumbrae’s) is a current star. A cross between the nutty, dry serrano from Spain and silky prosciutto di Parma, it has a delicate taste. Real Italian mortadella is now available in Toronto, too (Cheese Boutique). Imported from Emiglia-Romagna, Italy’s famous gastronomic region, it’s more flavourful than the made-in-Canada version and comes tinged with berries and peppercorns.
Traditional Cuts
They sound less appealing, but old-fashioned cuts—pork shoulder, pig’s foot and lamb’s neck—are often the tastiest, particularly in stews. Traditional butchers such as Charlie’s Meat and Seafood offer great flank steak and oxtail. Little Portugal’s Talho e Salsicharia Rui Gomes offers a good selection of offal, including top-notch tripe.
Rare Breeds
For great flavour, gourmands opt for meats from heritage breeds. Berkshire Pork—considered the Kobe beef of the pork world—is the meat du jour. The breed dates back four centuries, and is renowned for being tender and tasty; gorgeously marbled loin and leg roasts can be ordered from Cumbrae’s. Kobe beef is also gaining popularity. But the Wagyu cow must be raised and slaughtered in Japan to earn the exclusive Kobe moniker. Now Alberta ranchers are raising the Wagyu cow according to Japanese practices—giving the cattle daily massages and copious amounts of beer. Taste the decadent results at Olliffe.
Organic and Naturally Raised
The world is finally waking up to the potential dangers of industrially farmed meat. The list of offenders includes antibiotics, hormones and nasty chemicals. Olliffe carries certified organic poultry and naturally raised foie gras; both come courtesy of La Ferme, a supplier for some of the city’s high-end restaurants. Meat on the Beach guarantees that its cuts are free of hormones and antibiotics.
Game
Not only does game offer big, wild flavours, it’s lower in fat than the majority of mainstream meats. White House Meats supplies succulent venison sausage and other game cuts for the grill. The Healthy Butcher carries an impressive selection of game, including elk, bison and wild boar from top-quality Ontario suppliers.
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