A $137 bottle of rosé raises a lot of questions, the first being “Seriously?” Well, yes. The wine, called Garrus, is the most expensive of five labels from rosé specialist Château d’Esclans in Provence, where pink bottles routinely dot the tables in the tony restaurants of Cannes and Nice. While the audacious pricing is an attention-getting ploy, it’s also proof that rosé has been upgraded from paper bag to Riedel stemware. But is it worth the price? To date, most rosé has been made to a simplistic formula: cheap, fruity and candy floss sweet. Can juice given just two or three days’ contact with flavour-laden skins actually display a nuanced expression of its grape? Garrus shows that it is possible, with gentle watercolour aromas that capture the subtle dried cherry–strawberry, pepper and herbs of the grenache grape grown in Provence’s mineral-rich soils. I’ve never tasted a rosé with such profound length. The winemaking is painstakingly detailed: grapes are hand-picked during cool morning hours to preserve freshness. They’re sorted twice, de-stemmed, soft pressed and macerated at 10 degrees Celsius. Only the free-run (non-pressed) juice is then fermented in older, neutral-flavoured barrels for eight months. The contact provides layers of satiny richness, with nary a whisper of oak. Such techniques are increasingly being used around the world. The best rosés are grenache-based pinks from the south of France and Spain, and similarly arid Australia. Those of us who don’t want to pay $137 for Garrus (Wine Guy Imports, 416-946-3489) or its ilk have multiple options. Red varietals from all regions are yielding fine, affordable bottles. I recently tasted more than 40; here are the 10 best. Serve chilled, not stone cold.

Château des Charmes 2007 Cuvée d’Andrée Rosé
$13.95 | Niagara Peninsula | 90 points
A bright, ruby-pink blend of pinot noir, cabernet franc, cab sauvignon and merlot, it captures the rich, subtle essence of southern France, as well as the liveliness that is characteristic of Ontario’s cooler climate. Layers of berry, along with nuances of pepper, lavender and evergreen. Very good focus and length. www.chateau descharmes.com.

Bieler Père et Fils 2007 Sabine Rosé
$12.95 | Côteaux d’Aix-en-Provence | 87 points
This well-priced syrah-grenache blend captures the essence of Provence with gentle aromas of dried herbs, flowers and raspberry fruit. Fairly deep pink colour. Light to medium bodied, with freshness and sweetness, but a dry finish. Very good length. Vintages, August 2. LCBO 71423

Château la Tour de l’Évêque 2007 Rosé
$15.95 | Côtes de Provence, France | 86 points
In keeping with its pale salmon hue, this LCBO perennial is a lighter rosé that coasts on mildness and charm, not great presence or complexity. Classic Mediterranean aromas of red onion, fennel and strawberry. Vintages. LCBO 319392

Domaine des Carteresses 2007 Tavel
$15.95 | Rhône Valley, France | 88 points
Tavel is the village that first made serious rosé famous. Made with grenache and other Rhône varieties, it has a deep ruby hue. Cherry, sour plum and dried herb flavours are set in a satiny texture. Vintages. LCBO 739474

Flat Rock Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir Rosé
$14.95 | Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara | 90 points
A pearl pink hue belies its presence. The nose is rich and nuanced, with sour cran-cherry fruit, minerals and herbs (chives and fennel). Reminiscent of premium pink champagne, it’s viscous, dry, fleshy and warm, with a moderately earthy and warm finish. Captures pinot’s elusive soul. Vintages. LCBO 39974

Frescobaldi 2007 Salta Grilli Rosato
$14.95 | Tuscany | 85 points
Made from 80 per cent sangiovese, with merlot and cabernet grown at Frescobaldi’s Castiglioni estate, this noteworthy, curious rendition is aged in new barrels, which adds unusual vanilla and clove to the sour cherry, pomegranate and herbal nuances. Quite full, rounded and rich, but disjointed with clove and light tannin on the finish. Vintages. LCBO 33555

Huff Estates 2007 Rosé
$14.95 | Prince Edward County | 85 points
Huff makes a bright salmon colour rosé that is full of energy and intense aromas, such as rhubarb, raspberry and fresh mint. Light bodied, with tart acidity and some carbon dioxide spritz creating mouth-watering zest. Serve cold as a summer refresher. www.huffestates.com.

Marqués de Cáceres 2007 Rosado
$12.55 | Rioja, Spain | 88 points
One of the best buys in the LCBO’s seasonal rosé portfolio. Fairly pale coral hue, but complex persimmon, strawberry, orange, evergreen and wet stone aromas. Light bodied and fresh yet creamy. Hits better length than expected. LCBO 622142

Rémy-Pannier 2007 Rosé d’Anjou
$10.90 | Loire Valley, France | 86 points
A perfect summer garden party quaffer that is light bodied (10.5 per cent alcohol), spritzy and fresh. Very bright ruby colour, with pure, mild, sweet raspberry-rhubarb fruit, a hint of pine and chalky minerality. Clean and delicate. LCBO 12641

Salena 2007 Organic Rosé
$18.95 | Australia | 88 points
An organically grown blend of grenache, shiraz and mourvèdre that wafts unmistakable grenache strawberry-cherry jam with a hint of mourvèdre’s typical blueberry and mint, as well as shiraz’s peppery spice. Full-bodied and soft, it’s a touch sweet, yet rich and warm. Excellent focus and length, with moderate bitter­ness and warmth. The fact that Salena grows its grapes organically seals the deal. Vintages. LCBO 68908

Viña Honda 2007 Monastrell Rosé
$13.95 | Jumilla, Spain | 87 points
Monastrell is known as mourvèdre in neighbouring France, where it is often included in rosé blends. This deeply hued wine shows mourvèdre’s floral and blueberry notes. Rivals French Tavel in full-bodied weight and richness. Well balanced and dry, with a fennel note on the finish. Vintages. LCBO 71431