Eat, Drink and be Daring - Page 6
51 The goat roti at Bacchus
Created by indentured Indian labourers in the Caribbean and transported here by generations of Guyanese and Trinidadian immigrants, this spicy wrap has become one of the city’s own. $8. 1376 Queen St. W., 416-532-8191.
52 Globe Bistro’s beer-battered Lake Erie perch
With a shatteringly crisp crust outside and moist lake fish (as opposed to the usual cod or halibut) inside, Toronto’s WASP classic gets its (Mill Street Organic) drink on. $18, November to July. 124 Danforth Ave., 416-466-2000.
53 The coffee ceremony at Addis Ababa
Recreating an Ethiopian ritual that’s as old as the drink itself, Aster Belayneh roasts ripe green coffee beans, grinds them with a mortar and pestle, then steeps them with water in a traditional clay pot, called a jebena, before pouring the steaming, intoxicating brew into tiny cups. Let Seattle have its Starbucks. $10 for six servings. 1184 Queen St. W., 416-538-0059.
54 Gandhi’s exceptional only-in-Toronto butter chicken roti
Avtar Singh replaces the usual Caribbean-inflected fillings with India’s definitive comfort dish. $11.95. 554 Queen St. W., 416-504-8155.
55 Stephen Alexander’s 60-day dry-aged rib-eye steak
In a food world where wet-aged, hormone laced, antibiotic-pumped USDA Prime was considered the ne plus ultra of protein, butcher Stephen Alexander had the temerity to begin raising beef naturally, right here in Ontario, and aging it the old-fashioned way. Others have since caught on, making Toronto one of the best places to buy a piece of beef. But Alexander’s rib-eyes, finely marbled, impossibly tender and rich with dry aging’s nutty-earthy pong, are still the best. $23 per pound. Cumbrae’s, 481 Church St., 416-923-5600.
56 Jamie Kennedy’s poutine
He could stop serving his famous french fries tomorrow, and he’d still be remembered as the guy with the fabulous Yukon gold frites. Frustrating, maybe (Kennedy really can cook more fancified food), but many a chef would kill for such a problem. At JK Wine Bar, they’re topped with pulled pork, chopped scallions, smoked cheese from Stratford’s Monforte Dairy, and a deep, dark, heady barbecue sauce. This inspired Toronto take on the Québécois classic takes the lowly french fry to uncharted new heights. $9 (toppings change every few days). Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, 9 Church St., 416-362-1957.
57 Three minutes at the counter of Honey World
Oleg Konashenkov, Ukrainian émigré and honey impresario—he imports 50 varieties, give or take—sweeps a straw through a jar of honey, twists it between his forefinger and thumb and waves it at a curious passerby. “Here, quick,” he says. It’s herbal, sweet. Five seconds later, a different jar, another twist. “This, it is Christmas tree honey. Pine.” Now it doesn’t stop: acacia, chestnut, manuka, leatherwood, a torrent of flavour. The passerby, a customer now, sugar-shocked and enthralled, reaches for his wallet. St. Lawrence Market South, 95 Front St. E., 416-214-0101.
58 Stinky tofu
This fermented Chinese snack’s reputation precedes it—by a good 300 metres when the wind is right. A booth serving stinky tofu at the city’s Asian Night Market last summer drew queues 50 people deep—it’s nearly impossible to find this side of the Pacific. Fried in oil and topped with preserved cabbage, the aromatic bean curd may not be every gastronome’s idea of a good time, but it’s a first-rate notch in Toronto’s internationalist foodie belt. $3.50 for six pieces. Wei’s Taiwanese Food, 2578 Birchmount Rd., 416-754-4605.
59 Claudio Aprile’s liquid nitrogen ice cream
Most chefs outsource their ice cream, or churn it in a refrigerated machine if they insist on making their own. Claudio Aprile takes it one further, pouring flavoured cream (Thai chili and coffee was one of the latest) tableside into a bowl of liquid nitrogen (temperature -196° C). The product is the coolest ice cream imaginable—not to mention
one of the city’s most impressive desserts. $19. Colborne Lane, 45 Colborne St., 416-368-9009.
60 Nitter kibbeh
An ebullient blend of clarified butter with turmeric and other spices, kibbeh’s a staple of Ethiopian cooking. It’s superlative with bread and honey, and an exceptional fat for frying fish. $20 a pound. Arsema’s Variety, 813 Gerrard St. E., 416-461-6766.
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