December 2007
Eat, Drink and be Daring
Toronto’s long been an international food city, but it’s fair to say that we’ve only recently melded the flavours of here and far away into a cuisine that’s definitively our own. This is our list, arranged in no parÂticular order, of the city’s must-try foods—from local classics like butter tarts (No. 63) to more recent arrivals like kimchee empanadas (82). They’re all either made in Toronto, unique to Toronto, or hard enough to find elsewhere that they make us feel lucky to live here By Chris Nuttall-Smith
Image credit: Margaret Mulligan; Food styling by Nancy Midwicki
1 Scaramouche’s coconut cream pie
While neither coconuts nor cream pies could ever claim to be uniquely Torontonian, diet-be-damned diners have made this white chocolate–topped bauble, first developed by pastry chef Joanne Yolles, an indispensable part of the city. $12. Scaramouche, 1 Benvenuto Pl., 416-961-8011.
2 The Pop Shoppe’s lime ricky
The Pop Shoppe boomed through the disco era (the company, based in London, Ontario, sold 1 million bottles a day in 1977), then went bust in the early 1980s. But the incomparable lime ricky—not too bubbly, not too sweet, way too green—was never completely forgotten. Thanks to a new investor in Burlington, it’s back. $1.79. Shoppers Drug Mart.
3 Thunder Oak cheese from the Cheese Boutique
Best-before dates don’t apply here. No mere retailers, staff at this west Toronto mecca include some of the continent’s most skilled affineurs. Thunder Oak, a single-herd cow’s milk cheese from Thunder Bay, gets an extra three years’ hard time in the shop’s vault; massively flavoured from the get-go, it takes on notes of hazelnuts and brandy, plus a satisfying, salty crunch that can only come from proper ripening. $60 per kilo. 45 Ripley Ave., 416-762-6292.
4 The not-so-humble McIntosh apple
Discovered in 1811, growing wild just north of Brockville, the McIntosh quickly became one of the most loved apples on earth. By far the most popular variety grown in southern Ontario, and cultivated around the world, it’s lost market share of late to such newer varieties as the Fuji and Honeycrisp. But perfectly ripe, finely balanced and almost obnoxiously juicy, the mac is a genuine Ontario icon.
5 Carousel Bakery’s breakfast sandwich
Leaner than the usual back bacon (it’s more like a ham), sweet cured instead of smoked and dusted with ground, dried corn, peameal pork is a quintessential Hogtown classic. Though the debate about the best way to sandwich it—on its own, with a slice of cheddar, or with cheddar and egg—might never die, there’s no question that the version at this St. Lawrence Market institution is the city’s gold standard. $4.35. Carousel Bakery, St. Lawrence Market South, 95 Front St. E., 416-363-4247.
6 Fresh lime soda topped with toasted masala spice
Cool and slightly salty, savoury and sweet, it’s as authentically Indian as Yellow Label tea. $2.50. Udupi Palace, 1460 Gerrard St. E., 416-405-8138.
7 International Cheese’s fresh ricotta
Cheesemaker Mario Pelosi won best in class for his ricotta at the 2006 World Championship Cheese Contest. Almost nothing is more comforting than his creamy, slightly salty cow’s milk cheese, still warm and dolloped onto good bread. Pelosi makes it every day at his shop near St. Clair and Keele; it’s best to show up before 3 p.m. $5 per kilo. 67 Mulock Ave., 416-769-3547.
8 Greg’s roasted marshmallow ice cream
The often-imitated, but never convincingly replicated Toronto original. $6 for 500 mL. 750 Spadina Ave., 416-962-4734.
9 Laura Secord’s Easter cream eggs
A city (and national) tradition that began in 1913 with a single storefront on Yonge Street. $2.50 for 100 grams. 140 Bay St., 416-366-1892.
10 Ming Room’s Manchurian paneer
Though subcontinental Hakka cuisine—a fiery blend of Chinese and Indian cooking—originated with Chinese workers in Calcutta, booming immigration has made Toronto a Hakka hot spot. This sinus-searing dish shows some of the best of the dual identity, pairing fried Indian paneer with coriander in a soy-based, chili-laced sauce. $9.95. 6461 Mississauga Rd., Mississauga, 905-812-1234.









