Drying grapes into raisinhood before pressing them is a dodgy way to make wine. It’s labour intensive, and humid autumn conditions can quickly spark a volatile epidemic of rot (which can create vinegary wine). But in Italy’s Valpolicella region and now in Niagara, more and more vintners think it’s worth the risk. With concentrated flavour and sugar, raisined grapes deliver heightened richness, stronger alcohol and smoother texture—wine with finesse. In Valpolicella, dry wine made by this appassimento method is called amarone, a full-blown, often 16 per cent alcohol beast that has bullied its way into the world’s wine elite, commanding upwards of $100 a bottle. Masi winery created a much less expensive derivative called ripasso by refermenting leftover amarone skins along with normally harvested grapes. And partial appassimento ferments dried with just harvested grapes. These shortcuts can transform light-bodied, taut and greener reds into smoother, fruitier wines.

Len Crispino, a former Ontario trade rep who became enamoured of amarone when he was stationed in Italy, has embraced appassi­mento winemaking in rot-rife Niagara with gusto. At his new Vineland winery, the Foreign Affair, he’s making almost every wine with dried grapes: riesling, pinot noir, even chardonnay. Last fall, Crispino and the star winemaker Andrzej Lipinski coaxed almost 6,000 cases out of Niagara’s soggy 2008 vintage. The technique is expensive, but if he can sell his wines for $30 to over $100 a bottle, others in Niagara will no doubt be setting up grape-drying racks. Below, a sampling from the Foreign Affair (available at www.foreignaffairwine.com) and some notables from Italy.

The Foreign Affair 2007 Sauvignon Blanc
$32.50 | Niagara Peninsula | 92 points Who knew a Niagara white could simul­taneously channel Bordeaux and Cali­fornia? This wine is a revela­tion: a voluptuous, 20 per cent appassi­mento sauvignon with scents of pine, lemon-lime, licorice and pineapple. It’s creamy and intense, with sauvignon’s green notes on the finish. Excellent length.

FROM NIAGARA

The Foreign Affair 2006 Cabernet Franc
$110 | Niagara Peninsula | 91 points This wine was inspired by Alzero, a cabernet franc made in the amarone style by Giuseppe Quintarelli, doyen of the amarone genre. It’s fermented from grapes that have been dried for an incredible 103 days. Some dried straw- like oxidation on the nose lowers the rating. But it also displays ginseng, sour cherry, marzipan, chocolate and leather. Smooth and rich, with outstanding length. Best now to 2013.

The Foreign Affair 2007 Chardonnay
$38 | Niagara Peninsula | 91 points
Crispino fermented 20 per cent dried grapes with very ripe fruit, then aged half of the batch in new French oak barrels. The complex result features flavours of peach, mango and crème brûlée; the texture is rich yet delicate.

The Foreign Affair 2007 Pinot Noir
$44 | Niagara Peninsula | 86 points
Pinot noir is notoriously rot prone, so drying the grapes is a tightrope exercise. Here the rope wobbles. Adding 20 per cent appassimento grapes has infused more richness and weight than Niagara usually delivers, and it has typical cherry with oak, vanilla and spice. Some sourness and volatility sneak onto the finish, joining considerable green tannin. Pinot fans can test drive it at Canoe. Best 2011 to 2013.

The Foreign Affair 2007 Temptress
$45 | Niagara Peninsula | 88 points
This blend of 55 per cent merlot, 36 per cent cabernet sauvignon and nine per cent petit verdot is fermented with 20 per cent appassi­mento grapes. Displays aromas of blackcurrant, mint and fresh herbs. It’s a bit lean, tannic and green on the finish (perhaps a higher percentage of dried grapes should have been used). Cellaring for five years should smooth it out.

FROM ITALY

Corte Zovo 2005 Sa’ Solin Ripasso
$17.95 | Valpolicella, Venetia | 88 points
Smooth and sweetish, with dried cherry and marzipan, Corte Zovo is a well-priced intro­duction to ripasso. Medium-full bodied and smooth, with a warm (14.5 per cent alcohol) and earthy finish. Very good length. Enjoy now or cellar five years. Vintages. LCBO 650713

I Castei 2004 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico
$44.95 | Venetia | 89 points
Acetic and earthy oxidative aromas are part of the equation in amarone, given the grapes’ exposure to the elements during the drying process. This maturing amarone features prune with shoe polish, chocolate and a barnyard character. The palate is smooth, sweet and elegant, with an interesting flavour of quinine (think of Brio, Italy’s famous soft drink) on the finish. Excellent to outstanding length. Vintages. LCBO 739979

Masi 2005 Costasera Amarone Classico
$37.45 | Venetia | 90 points
Although it still needs more time in the bottle, Masi’s basic amarone (the winery also makes single-vineyard bottlings three times the price) has all the classic elements. The nose is reserved, with cherry and floral notes, along with chocolate and leather. It’s quite smooth, even elegant—until the almost 15 per cent alcohol heats the finish. Best 2011 to 2015. LCBO 317057

Tommasi 2006 Ripasso Valpolicella
$19.95 | Venetia | 89 points
The 2006 vintage combines New World smoothness and warmth with traditional leather, dried cherry, currant and tobacco flavours, courtesy of 18 months in Slavonian oak. It’s mid‑weight and complex, with a slightly dusty finish. Best 2010 to 2013. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 910430

Zenato 2006 Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore
$24.95 | Venetia | 88 points
Slim, with an edgy, volatile acidity that’s soothed by cherry and chocolatey notes, Zenato has a juicy, crowd-pleasing style. Sweet and sour, with some chalky, green tannin. A bit pricey. Best now to 2012. Vintages Essentials. LCBO 479766

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