If Toronto’s idea of an Italian first course is some sliced meat and a caprese salad, Tutti Matti’s antipasto special should jolt our collective culinary psyche. Available June through August, owner-chef Alida Solomon’s exceptional assortment ($21, and big enough for two) builds on sublime buffalo mozzarella, olives marinated in fennel and orange, and wild boar salami with such locally grown treasures as stuffed zucchini blossoms, fried green tomatoes and deep-fried artichokes with aïoli, each element artfully prepared à la minute. “Labour intensive,” Solomon admits, “but that’s Tuscan cooking for you.” The antipasto bar has been raised.

Tutti Matti, 364 Adelaide St. W., 416-597-8839.