Sweet Tail
Two supposedly contrasting tastes, together at last By Rob Mifsud
David Lee, executive chef at Splendido, distills a childhood of watching Bruce Lee films into a philosophy of flavour: “You get one punch, bang!” he explains. “Another punch, bang!” That’s certainly the ethos behind his latest challenge to culinary norms: a dish that pairs savoury and sweet as complementary—as opposed to contradictory—tastes. Langoustine, a dense arc kissed with a searing pan’s heat, sets the theme, naturally sweet and savoury all at once. Crunchy maple-glazed tuna “bacon” adds layers of salt and smoke. Sautéed leek deals a pungent kick, while sugary slices of candied fennel and a foamed reglisse and espresso emulsion, reminiscent of a trip to the candy store, provide a happy wallop of sweetness and anise. Like his cinematic idol, chef Lee proves that bold punches, properly choreographed, can defy convention and dazzle at the same time.
Splendido, 88 Harbord St., 416-929-7788.
TEST Originally published May 2007
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