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Sweet Tail

Two supposedly contrasting tastes, together at last By Rob Mifsud

David Lee, executive chef at Splendido, distills a childhood of watching Bruce Lee films into a philosophy of flavour: “You get one punch, bang!” he explains. “Another punch, bang!” That’s certainly the ethos behind his latest challenge to culinary norms: a dish that pairs savoury and sweet as complementary—as opposed to contradic­tory—tastes. Langoustine, a dense arc kissed with a searing pan’s heat, sets the theme, naturally sweet and savoury all at once. Crunchy maple-glazed tuna “bacon” adds layers of salt and smoke. Sautéed leek deals a pungent kick, while sugary slices of candied fennel and a foamed reglisse and espresso emulsion, reminiscent of a trip to the candy store, provide a happy wallop of sweetness and anise. Like his cinematic idol, chef Lee proves that bold punches, properly choreographed, can defy convention and dazzle at the same time.

Splendido, 88 Harbord St., 416-929-7788.


Originally published May 2007

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Today in Toronto: March 10, 2010
  • Canadian Music Fest: With hundreds of musical acts descending on dozens of venues, the newly redubbed live component of Canadian Music Week makes for one hell of a bender
  • Alicia Keys: The 29-year-old singer and pianist demonstrates her formidable range and talent at the ACC
  • Trailer Park Boys: Julian, Ricky and Bubbles take their white-trash wizardry on the road in the Drunk, High and Unemployed tour
  • Nathan Gunn: The first winner of the Beverly Sills Award for young singers back in 2006, this American baritone appears with his piano accompanist and wife, Julie Gunn
  • Tafelmusik Baroque Orchestra and Chamber Choir: Bach in Leipzig is a narrated musical performance that highlights the breadth of Johann Sebastian Bach’s compositions during his years (1723–1750) as director of music at Leipzig and Kantor of the city’s Thomasschule
  • More things to do tonight
  • Something to do this weekend

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