Porky's Revenge
Fine swine times three at Crush By Emma Waverman
Image credit: Angus Fergusson
Not so long ago, pork was just plain old supermarket pork. Then came the dark-fleshed, deeply marbled Berkshire breed to teach us that all pigs are definitely not created equal. And now this: 10-week-old, milk-fed St. Canut Farms Yorkshire piglet from Quebec—indisputably the most decadent, buttery oinker yet. Crush Wine Bar’s David Gaunt puts it to extravagantly good use with a trio of belly, loin and shoulder. The belly is rolled with honey mushrooms, pancetta and sweetbreads and poached in dessert wine; it’s then fried to nearly melting. Gaunt lets the loin speak for itself, roasting it into caramelized, velvety tenderness; braised shoulder, flavour-packed and delicious, dissolves into its accompanying celeriac salad. It’s fitting that the dish is called Three Little Pigs. We’d blow walls down for another taste. $33.
Crush Wine Bar, 455 King St. W., 416-977-1234.
TEST Originally published March 2007
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