Pass the Buckwheat
A distinctly underrated grain gets a little love By Liz Allemang
Image credit: Angus Fergusson
On dull November days, the unexpected vibrancy of a simple bowl of noodles can lift even the dreariest spirits. Soba masters Tetsuya and Eiko Iizuka—whose purist approach to noodle dough has them grinding ultra-fresh whole Canadian buckwheat using a traditional (and, at 16 r.p.m., very slow) Japanese stone mill—proffer their exquisite creations at Hiro each Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Amid such options as oboro soba (house-made tofu topped with scallion) and slurp-worthy snow crab soba, the clear standout is the immodest ikura soba: skinny strands of freshly made noodles that are mild yet distinctly nutty, served in a pool of rich and tangy tsuyu—a cold, elegant “dipping soup” made of soy, mirin and bonito flakes. An airy dollop of finely grated daikon radish sits, in creamy splendour, atop the noodles and is crowned with the dish’s namesake, a liberal smattering of salmon roe that burst in the mouth and rouse the tongue. The experience is near otherworldly. After which, the searing burn of a hidden wasabi garnish will bring you promptly back to reality.
Hiro Sushi, 171 King St. E., 416-304-0550.
TEST Originally published November 2006
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