The Gardiner Museum’s most buzz-worthy dish is not a rare example of Renaissance majolica (though that’s worth a look, too) but an edible bowl filled with mouth-watering curry. The hopper, as this fermented-rice-flour-and-coconut-milk crêpe is known in Sri Lanka, is steam-fried at a cook station in Jamie Kennedy’s newly minted dining room, then filled with one of two daily stews: vege­tarian or fish ($12). The lacy-edged creation arrives with such condiments as seeni sambal, lime pickle and shallots cooked in ghee. “Not all are traditional accompaniments,” says Kennedy. “But they do lend a sense of ceremony.” He can’t be accused of appropriating someone else’s cuisine: his mother, Patricia, grew up in Ceylon and is part Sinhalese. Post-colonialism never tasted so good.

Jamie Kennedy at the Gardiner Museum, 111 Queen’s Park, 416-362-1957.