Custard’s Stand
Classic crème caramel, Italian and Vietnamese style By Chris Johns
Big in Japan, massive in Argentina and as popular in the Philippines as it is in Philadelphia, crème caramel is the Esperanto of desserts. Which makes Toronto, with its diverse restaurant scene, the best place on earth for a silky fix. Here, luxe and bargain-priced takes on the jiggly treat.
ZUCCA
2150 Yonge St., 416-488-5774
Chef Andrew Milne-Allan perfected his recipe 25 years ago, and his customers won’t let him take it off the menu. He infuses his exceptionally light, almost soufflé-like version with a drop of Disaronno amaretto. Seasonal fruit—this winter, expect persimmons and cactus pears—makes the dish white tablecloth worthy. $9.
PHO LINH
1156 College St., 416-516-3891
Taking no frills to new heights, this pho joint serves its kem flan in the kind of container usually reserved for olive bar kalamatas. But the dimpled top is cooked to caramelized goodness, and its gelatinous consistency is a nice change from eggy Western versions. Served cold, it scores a hat trick: refreshing, comforting and dirt cheap. $2.
Photographs by Daniel Shipp
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