Weekly Lunch Pick
Crush Wine Bar
At this financial district bistro, the heavenly and affordable three-course lunch goes down as fast as the TSX—only with a lot more joy By Renée Suen
The lunch at Crush: British inspired, Bay
Street approved
Image credit: Renee Suen
The place: Riding the popularity of gastro-pubs, Jamieson Kerr—Crush’s Toronto-born, England-raised owner—has rebranded his French bistro into a locavore destination serving comforting British fare. The former factory space is surprisingly cozy. Ralph Giannone redesigned the room last year, creating a homey feel with red leather stools, flashes of exposed brick and dark wood.
The crowd: At lunch, the buzzing room contains a few suits in a sea of business-casual 30-somethings, all making the most of their lunch breaks. Everything but work is open for discussion, with the occasional oenophile referencing Crush’s hallmark wine list.
The deal: Although ample attention is given to wine, the anglophile menu is starting to attract a food-loving crowd. Lunch choices run the British gamut, including curry-spiced lamb naan ($14), Wellington strip loin ($23) and a traditional ploughman’s lunch ($16). The real deal, however, is found in the set meal: soup or salad, main and dessert for $20.
The dish: English onion soup is a stick-to-the-ribs starter with crisp, broth-soaked crostini under a blanket of melted Lincolnshire poacher (English cheddar). Although a companion finds satisfaction in the fish and chips ($15)—an airy battered cod fillet accompanied by seasoned skin-on frites, mushy peas and tartar sauce—we swoon over the succulent braised beef cheek served over fluffy bubble and squeak (potatoes, leeks, cabbage and double-smoked bacon). When we regain our composure, the kitchen sends out a sweet cocoa-dusted truffle reward.
The time: 50 minutes for three courses. Since service is unobtrusive, friendly and does not push to clear the table, we order chef Michael Wilson’s famous sticky toffee pudding ($10) and linger for an additional 45 minutes.
The cost: $41 (including tax, tip and an extra order of dessert).
Crush Wine Bar, 455 King St. W. (at Spadina), 416-977-1234, www.crushwinebar.com.
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