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Weekly Lunch Pick

The Chefs’ House

The midday fare prepared by George Brown’s renowned culinary students makes the grade By Andrew Brudz

Tarted up: Dessert at  The Chefs’ House is as delicious as it is pretty

 
Tarted up: Dessert at The Chefs’ House is as delicious as it
is pretty
 

Image credit: Matthew Fox

The place: Nestled in a loft-like space amid George Brown College’s characteristic red brick, the Chefs’ House is a vibrant training ground for a new generation of Toronto chefs. Plasma screens in the dining room give guests a behind-the-scenes look at the (unexpectedly calm) goings-on in the kitchen, while awkward, by-the-book hospitality students serve the creations of their culinary counterparts.

The crowd: Supportive parents, leisurely local ladies, novelty-seeking foodies and perhaps some fans of the reality TV cooking show craze.

The deal: Mix-and-match appetizers, soups, salads, main courses and desserts to form a two-, three- or four-course lunch ($18, $22 and $25, respectively). Reservations are a must (often days in advance), especially when guest chefs are in the kitchen.

The dish: Lunch gets off to a light start with salty and sweet house-cured salmon gravlax served alongside crunchy fennel slaw and honey mustard. Next up: pan-roasted chicken and roasted vegetables with a scene-stealing shallot reduction (use the bottomless basket of sourdough rolls to ensure that not a drop goes to waste). A could’ve-been-crumblier rhubarb ginger tart with house-made vanilla ice cream finishes things off. While none of the above is terribly inventive, everything gets an A for flavour, effort and presentation.

The time: Perhaps best saved for a slow day at the office, this lunch hour stretched to about one hour and 25 minutes.

The cost: $35.44 for three courses (including tax, tip, a Peroni beer and coffee).

The Chefs’ House, 215 King St. E. (at Jarvis St.), 416-415-5000, ext. 2260, thechefshouse.com.

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