Illustration by Brian Rea

People have a love-hate relationship with South African wine. The inimitable Cape flavour—a characteristic note of tar or burnt rubber—keeps many from exploring one of the world’s most fascinating wine regions. What causes this flavour is as hotly debated as whether it should be there at all. Perhaps it emanates from the complex granite- and shale-based soils of the Jurassic mountains that frame the Cape’s picture-perfect vineyards. Perhaps the odd taste stems from vineyard viruses or practices, or some microbial presence endemic in older fermentation chambers. Theories abound; answers do not. Not all South African wines have it; many South Africans themselves don’t recognize it, while others proudly describe it as a subtle Euro-inspired minerality.

Cape vintners have taken inspiration from French wines ever since bordeaux-fancying British and Dutch émigrés and French Huguenots planted the first vines in the 17th century. Wine­makers began to draw stylistic inspiration from the New World only once international trade sanctions were lifted in 1993 with the end of apartheid. The vineyards and wineries have had a massive overhaul in the past 16 years, and I was astounded on a recent visit by the depth, quality and extraordinary value of the wines. Out of the 400 labels I tasted, I was particularly impressed by the once-lowly French white grape called chenin blanc; the powerful and often lean, mineral-driven sauvignon blancs; and the tide of heady syrahs/shirazes and Rhône-inspired blends. Within every type there is incredible regional diversity due to the complex micro­climates and varying soil types, elevations and cross-influences from the cool Atlantic and warm Indian Ocean currents. Here are some of the best South African examples available on this side of the ocean.

Boekenhoutskloof 2007 The Wolftrap
$13.95 | Western Cape | 90 points
Rarely does a wine under $15 deliver such stunning complexity and depth. This syrah-mourvèdre-viognier blend is opaque purple-black and sports a heady nose of charcoal, black licorice, chocolate, capers and dark cherry. Full bodied, very ripe, rich, warm, a touch sweet and almost exhaustingly long on the finish. Vintages. LCBO 626333

RED
Bellingham 2006 Shiraz Viognier
$13.95 | Coastal Region | 88 points
Barrel aged for a year in French oak and blended with a splash of white viognier, this classic Cape estate wine has a floral nose with cherry, pepper and fennel subtleties. Mid-weight, firm and fairly tannic, it’ll age for up to five years. Great value. LCBO 554360

Bouchard Finlayson 2007 Galpin Peak Pinot Noir
$46.95 | Walker Bay | 92 points
Great pinots are taking root in vineyards by the ocean in Walker Bay, Hermanus and Elgin. This one has a classic pinot nose of cran-currant, woodsmoke and beef jerky. Medium weight, smooth and poised, with fine tannin. Excellent length. Best 2010 to 2015. Lamprecht International, 416-421-3908.

Delheim 2005 Shiraz
$16.95 | Simonsberg-Stellenbosch | 89 points
This traditional family winery is delivering surprising elegance and value. Its shiraz has Rhône-inspired woodsmoke, pâté, black­currant, licorice and gunpowder on the nose. Smooth, with fine, soft tannin and chocolate. Very good length, with classic Stellenbosch minerality on the finish. Now to 2012. Vintages. LCBO 959080

Fairview Goats Do Roam 2007 Red
$12.95 | Western Cape | 88 points
This seven-grape blend helped modernize attitudes toward Cape wines (its name pokes fun at the French Côtes du Rhône red that inspired it). The 2007 is more serious and better quality than the 2006, showing some Cape tar, licorice, cherry cola and dried herbs. Full, dense, powerful and tannic. Best 2010 to 2013. Vintages Essential. LCBO 718940

Lammershoek 2006 Pinotage
$22.50 | Swartland | 88 points
Pinotage is a pinot noir–cinsault variety that was hybridized in South Africa in the 1920s. Vintners are experimenting with this unfashionable grape—making everything from rosé to tannic tigers—to find a more successful style. Made from old vines, this Lammershoek is a cellaring wine with blackberry, tarry and smoky flavours within a dense, tannic frame. Best 2011 to 2015. Bokke Wines, 905-762-9161.

Zandberg 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
$20.50 | Stellenbosch | 89 points
There’s a whiff of rubber, but also typical cabernet blackcurrant, rosemary and chocolate aromas. Shows finely etched tannin, smoothness and concentration. Everyone at a recent tasting loved this wine. I asked the price, bracing for $50, then promptly bought a six-bottle case. Bokke Wines, 905-762-9161.

WHITE
Bon Courage 2008 Sauvignon Blanc
$15 | Robertson | 89 points
The chalkier soils of Robertson produce fresh and racy whites. Bright aromas of pineapple, green tea and lemon are less mineral and aggressively green than many Cape examples. An ideal summer sipper. Lamprecht International, 416-421-3908.

KWV Cathedral Cellar 2006 Chardonnay
$13.95 | Coastal Region | 88 points
From one of the biggest wineries of South Africa, this luscious chardonnay delivers loads of flavour for the money, with intense butterscotch, marzipan and mature, slightly earthy, nutty notes. Great weight and tension, with a lemony, warm finish. Excellent length. Drink now; the LCBO should have purchased a younger vintage. Vintages. LCBO 328559

Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc 2008
$10.95 | Western Cape | 86 points
A very good value wine that deftly captures the lean, mineral style of Cape sauvignons, complete with gooseberry, fennel and green nettles. Intense and juicy, with an almost salty minerality on the finish. LCBO 382713