A suave, convincing young Spaniard named Alvaro Palacios tilts into Toronto on February 20, though not, alas, brandishing any of his $650-a-bottle red wine called L’Ermita. This is not some ancient gem from Rioja, long Spain’s sole region of international influence. L’Ermita—a deep, layered blend of old-vine grenache (85 per cent) with cabernet and carignan—comes instead, like Palacios, from the impossibly steep, arid slopes of Priorato, in Catalonia. The price is gutsy—a little too gutsy for the LCBO—but Palacios also makes the more modestly priced Finca Dofí ($95) and Les Terrasses (under $50 and coming to Vintages February 18 with more than 30 other Spaniards). Spanish winemaking is now all about tiny, trendy DOs (Denominación de Origen), like Somontano, in the Pyrenees foothills; Rías Baixas, on the Galician coast; and Montsant, from near Priorato but more affordable. A Montsant co-op, Capçanes, makes a fine if light cabernet blend, Mas Donís 2003 Barrica (page 80), for $15.95. Previously released Montsants—Capçanes 2000 Costers del Gravet ($24.70) and Castell del Falset 2000 ($29.95)—might also still be lurking in some LCBO stores. They’re worth hunting for. Today’s Spanish reds replace the soft, over-oaked ones we know with brisk, tidy constructions and a vibrancy to make your taste buds shout ¡Ole!