Weekly Lunch Pick
Bodega
The innovative Mediterranean dishes at this Baldwin Village institution come in a two- or three-course prix-fixe By Renée Suen
Feature comforts: The star of Bodega's prix fixe are these
homely (but delicious) cannelloni stuffed with rabbit
Image credit: Renee Suen
The place: Chef-proprietor Paul Biggs has been bringing European charm to the heart of Baldwin Village since he took over Bodega in 2003. On the ground floor of a cozy Victorian mansion, a wood-heavy decor is accented by elegant white linen–covered tables.
The crowd: On this sunny weekday, most of the patrons dine on the patio, under the shade of umbrellas. Among them are local artists, stylish Yorkville types dipping south for a Cinematheque screening and a lone suit swatting away wasps.
The deal: Handed an extensive Mediterranean menu that jumps from France to Italy to Spain, we take the easy way out: a three-course prix fixe for $20. Also available as two courses ($15.50), the no-substitution lunch offers numerous starter, main and dessert options. The deal includes a soft drink or coffee.
The dish: In the soup du jour, a crème fraîche raft floats on a cool curry-asparagus pool—a perfect foil to the midday heat. Our dining partner chooses the lamb pizza (grilled vegetables, olives and asiago on a focaccia square), but our attention is focused on a pair of cannelloni stuffed with sweet ground rabbit. They come baked, covered in cheese and tomato–red pepper sauce, and the effect is homely and comforting. Bypassing the crème brûlée (why is it still everywhere?), we tuck into slices of warm and moist banana cake served in a pool of melting caramel toffee ice cream. The best was certainly saved for last.
The time: 90 minutes, with the main arriving 45 minutes after seating.
The cost: $26.50, including tax and tip.
Bodega, 30 Baldwin St. (at Henry St.), 416-977-1287, bodegarestaurant.com.
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