Talk about a transformation. When vodka was invented in the 12th century, it was used as a disinfectant and anesthetic. More recently, it’s been the go-to drink for masking with mixers, thanks to its subtle quality. But the clear spirit has gone upmarket. In the wake of the trend toward high-end gins and tequilas, the new vodkas are attracting connoisseurs who can wax lyrical about its nuanced flavours and supreme vintages. Instead of drowning it in orange juice, vodka can now be sipped and savoured on its own.

To see what all the fuss is about, pull up a sleek bar stool at Pravda and taste the cream of the potent crop. The swish bar carries 30 premium vodkas from Russia, Sweden, Finland and Poland. Though purists will sip this stuff straight-up, Pravda’s 22-strong martini list will also satisfy 007 wannabes. Highlights include the After Eight (a blend of Stoli, crème de menthe and crème de cacao), the Espresso (with Kahlua and espresso), the Sour Apple (with candied apple and green apple liqueur) and Red Square (cranberry and Campari); $11.90 each. Favoured customers might get to try a hit of the 50-year-old Polish Siwucha vodka served in a shot glass made of ice.

The proliferation of vodka martinis has been matched by a rise in the number of flavoured vodkas. Though Absolut launched Citron in Canada back in 1988, its roster of flavours—the likes of Mandrin, Vanilia, Raspberri and Apeach ($24.60/750 mL)—has grown in recent years, culminating in the 2006 launch of Ruby Red (grapefruit-flavoured vodka, $24.75). Bohemians might prefer Cannabis vodka: although it is THC-free, Vod-Ca Green Label comes laced with marijuana. Currently available at Remys, it is scheduled to hit stores in late 2006. Green types will also appreciate Zubrowka Bison Grass Vodka ($24.30/750 mL) from Poland: this aromatic concoction is flavoured with bison grass.

Premium vodkas are not necessarily flavoured, but nor are they plain, as the experts will attest. Filtered through limestone from the Champagne region, Grey Goose vodka ($41.50/750 mL) has mineral notes and a silky texture. Smirnoff Penka ($125/700 mL), a handcrafted, hard-to-find vodka made from rye grain, is smooth and creamy with hints of citrus and vanilla. Chopin ($40.20/750 mL), a luxury Polish vodka, is distilled four times and has a gentle, velvety feel. Belvedere ($42.15/750 mL), an all-rye vodka, is also distilled four times; the result is a sweet and clean body with citrus notes.

Indeed, flavour is only half the story when it comes to luxury vodkas. In a bid to stand out from the crowd, Wyborowa Single Estate ($41.15/750 mL, left) had Frank Gehry design its bottle. But the prize for the most exotic gimmick goes to Canadian Iceberg ($23.30/750 mL), which blends its spirits with water harvested from the icebergs off Newfoundland.