Better Bitters
House-made takes on a time-honoured elixir By Stéphanie Verge
A classic cocktail wouldn’t be classic (or a cocktail, some would argue) without a dash of bitters, a potent tincture of plants, herbs and spices. What was originally intended as a remedy for stomach ailments in the 1800s has become the must-have ingredient for discerning boozehounds—it gives a drink both depth and balance. Toronto’s most serious barkeeps are now distinguishing themselves by distilling their own. Here, the best bitters, three ways.
THE BUDOU
Ame guards its bitters recipe fiercely (“herbs and spices” and “a blended scotch base” is all mixologist Moses McIntee will say). This gauzy bauble of grape-infused vodka, bitters, grape juice, cabernet-ginger foam and edible flowers is chilled to -7° C with liquid nitrogen, ensuring a frosty drink and a crowd-pleasing spectacle. $14. 19 Mercer St., 416-599‑7246.
THE MANHATTAN
Rye-based bitters (infused with gentian root, wormwood, milk thistle, cinnamon and cloves) are a natural match for the Black Hoof’s rye-happy drink list. Its version of New York’s signature bevvie is a smooth blend of Canadian rye, sweet vermouth and bitters, eschewing cloying maraschinos for macerated dried sour cherries. $13. 928 Dundas St. W., 416-551-8854.
BITTER VELVET
The city’s cocktailiest lounge gets points for sheer ambition: Barchef has seven flavoured bitters (including cherry-vanilla, cola, cucumber, red grapefruit and maple). The Bitter Velvet mixes gin, sweet vermouth and coconut bitters, which lend a tropical note to this New Orleans–style sipper. It’s best saved for dessert. $8. 472 Queen St. W., 416-868-4800.
Photograph by Christopher Stevenson
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