April 2008

Best New Restaurants

From a space-age crystal to a former courthouse, our 2008 edition explores the top new restos from a banner year on the Toronto dining scene By James Chatto



Image credit: Ryan Szulc

From boutique hotel to major museum to wacky boîte, this was a very good year for new restaurants. I don’t know what was more exciting: seeing established stars taking risks with new ventures or watching unknown 30-somethings make dazzlingly successful debuts. It looks as though the next generation of chefs has finally found the self-confidence (and the backing) to cook for itself.

Specific delights abounded. Chef-made charcuterie continued its macho march across the city’s menus, while Monforte and Thunder Oak added local glory to cheeseboards already richly laden with the treasures of Quebec. East Coast oysters were wonderfully plump and sweet—even in months without an “r”—which was tragic for dutiful locavores stuck on their 100-mile diets but lovely for the rest of us. Above all, this was the year meat won back an adoring audience. Carnivores found many new restaurants specializing in flesh, from the slow-cooked barbecue at Cluck, Grunt & Low to $170 steaks at glitzy Jacobs & Co. and even glitzier Prime. In any other year, all three would have made their way onto this list, as would my Number 11, Tom Thai’s Foxley, on Ossington’s up-and-coming restaurant strip. But not in this exceptional vintage. Starting with my favourite, these are the 10 places that gave me the most pleasure.



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