Weekly Lunch Pick
Beerbistro
The presence of beer at this downtown restaurant verges on overkill, but the original take on bistro fare saves the midday spot from being dismissed as a gussied-up pub By Renée Suen
Cheers to that: Beerbistro finds unusual places for its
titular elixir
Image credit: Renee Suen
The place: With ceiling-high windows that surround a mahogany bar, this former bank is a bona fide beer shrine with a contemporary vibe. Any pub associations are dismissed by the upscale touches: wrought iron fixtures, linen table runners and attentive service.
The crowd: At lunch, the room is filled with folks alternating between buzzy office chatter and their pint-paired meals. Some patrons supplement their ale with some vitamin D on the patio, but we keep our cool indoors with the AC and a glass of Quebec’s Éphémère Pomme ($5.22).
The deal: Bistro classics spiked with—what else?—beer are what draw the crowds. Beer-cured bacon appears often on a menu that also includes cross-cultural touches and a whole section dedicated to mussels steamed in beer broth ($16). Although tempted by the Belgian ale–seasoned burger on a beer-buttermilk bun ($10.95) with Guinness cheddar ($2.75), our interest is piqued by the lunch plate specials.
The dish: We opt for horse tartare served with a cornet of skin-on Belgian frites ($16.95). Crowned by a fried quail egg and spiked with Trois Pistoles, the meat is malty and rich. Focusing on the main, however, is a challenge—we’re busy dipping our well-seasoned fries into pools of house-made mayonnaise and smoked ketchup. We face a similar dilemma when it comes time to choose a homemade beer ice cream ($6). We order two and share with our lunching partner: Dragon stout ice cream with crushed Skor; and rhubarb–Früli strawberry beer sorbet. The former must appeal to chocoholics, but the latter’s palate-refreshing finish leaves a better impression.
The time: 95 minutes, as we savoured our desserts for some time.
The cost: $35, including beer, dessert, tax and tip.
Beerbistro, 18 King St. E. (at Yonge), 416-861-9872, beerbistro.com.
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