Concept: Rumen Vimitrov was torn between two locations for his new bar, one on either end of the city’s trendiest drag, but he finally chose perpetually up-and-coming Leslieville as home base—further evidence, as if any were needed, that Queen East is supplanting Queen West as the hipper nabe. Named for Tsarina Alexandra’s mad monk, this narrow boîte isn’t short on old-world touches. Chandeliers and candelabra illuminate dark walls, babushka dolls peer out from behind the bar, and shot glasses are mismatched for dramatic—and authentic—effect (“in Russia, you had to use whatever you could find,” avows Vimitrov).

Crowd: Made up of mostly 30-something locals eager to chill in their ’hood on weekends, groups gather around a massive wooden table in the back, while duos talk Tolstoy at the bar. On the stereo: nondescript house alternates with more memorable fare, including a midnight chorus of Boney M’s rah-rah anthem, “Rasputin.” Seriously.

Cocktail: Mother Russia’s national bevvie is served every which way imaginable, but the best bet is with zakuski—your choice of one of 45 vodkas, served with rye bread and pickles.

Rasputin, 780 Queen St. E., 416-469-3737. Tuesday 6 p.m.–midnight, Wednesday to Friday 6 p.m.–2 a.m., Saturday 7 p.m.–2 a.m.