The racy white verdejo from Javier Sanz in Spain’s remote Rueda region was a revelation: perfumed and refined, with an almost icy tension. I’d never encountered it before and, alas, may never again. I was in Alberta, the land of privatized wine retailing, at the annual Merchants of Wine tasting, where there were scads of labels I’d never seen before. That province now has more than 1,100 stores that sell wine—some excellent, some dowdy—all competing for price, service and selection. The latest strategy among Calgary shopkeepers is to stock obscure grape varieties; with patio season approaching and oaked chardonnay falling from fashion, they are focusing on regional aromatic whites. These are non-oaked wines with exotic aromas, creamy textures and dry finishes. They used to be considered part of wine’s Third World, but modern cool- fermentation techniques have given them fragrance and quality.

When I got home, I mounted a search for examples like verdejo and albariño from Spain, vinho verde from Portugal, tocai friulano and trebbiano from Italy, plus such New World specialties as Argentina’s torrontés, even Ontario’s chardonnay musqué. An impressive number of samples arrived on my doorstep, proving that Ontario’s importers are not out of the loop in sourcing such wines. But few of those that arrived are actually on the shelf at the LCBO, or ever will be, so you must order directly from agents, which means buying by the case. But with this batch of fragrant summer lovelies, that should not be a hardship; they are as underpriced as they are under-appreciated.

Bodegas Gómez & Rial Alargo 2006 Albariño
$26.15 | Rías Baixas, Spain | 90 points
Very fine albariño from the wet, green northwestern coast, this new wunderkind of Spain combines fragrance, body and bitter dryness. Look for exotic yellow fruit aromas—star fruit, pineapple—plus fennel, sea salt and candle wax complexities. It’s fleshy, elegant and polished. www.bwwines.com.

Aichinger 2006 Grüner Veltliner Kamptal
$16.10 | Austria | 89 points
The most widely planted white grape in Austria is on the verge of international stardom. This wine is a classic, with a complex nose of apricot, beeswax, chive and fresh-baked bread. Mid-weight and zesty yet powerful and dry, with a mouth-watering finish. Vintages. LCBO 48868

Ajello 2006 Majus Grillo Catarratto
$18.35 | Sicily, Italy | 91 points
Grillo is the mainstay grape of marsala, Sicily’s almost extinct fortified wine. Catarratto brings grounding acidity to grillo’s exoticism. Bright yellow-gold colour and a touch of butterscotch hint at oak aging, but the blooming nose of evergreen, lavender and pineapple is a welcome surprise. Quite full bodied, with great acidity and warmth drying the finish. Excellent length. www.rogcowines.com.

Château des Charmes 2006 Chardonnay Musqué
$16.95 | Niagara-on-the-Lake | 88 points
This aromatic, muscat-like musqué clone is not native to Niagara, but the region is now a leading producer, making it a local specialty of sorts. Look for intense floral, pepper, grapefruit and star fruit aromas. Texture is fleshy, solid and slightly mineral. Vintages. LCBO 640516

Comenda 2006 Grande
$16.95 | Alentejo, Portugal | 88 points
A creamy blend of local varieties (including arinto) that sews in refreshing acidity and aromatics. Lifted waxy, apricot and licorice aromas, yet the finish is savoury, with avocado and pepper nuances. Excellent length. Vintages. LCBO 69989

Domaine de l’Idylle 2006 Roussette de Savoie
$16.95 | Savoy, France | 89 points
Roussette is an alternate name for the altesse variety grown in subalpine France. A very stylish, garden-sipping white with a soft nose of peach, wildflower and buttered baguette. Quite rounded, with a dry, mineral and slightly bitter finish. Very good length. Vintages. LCBO 61630

Dunavár 2006 Muscat Ottonel
$7.90 | Hungary | 87 points
Muscat has been passé for almost a generation, so it’s no wonder the Austro-Hungarian muscat ottonel variety has been all but forgotten (resulting in the absurdly low price). Spearmint and licorice flavours in a zesty, off-dry style. Perfect with sushi, and don’t hold back on the ginger and wasabi. LCBO 640516

Masciarelli 2006 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
$14.85 | Abruzzi, Italy | 89 points
Huge value from the trebbiano grape, which was on the trash heap of Italian viticulture a decade ago. Lifted floral, banana and star fruit, with spicy and waxy scents. Zesty, almost spritzy texture yet substantive weight. www.stemwine group.com.

Morgadío da Torre 2006 Alvarinho
$17.95 | Vinho Verde, Portugal | 89 points
Called albariño in Spain, alvarinho generates a richer, riper style of Portugal’s famously light vinho verde. This estate-grown example features complex cantaloupe, honey and lemon aromas, with a firm, dry, bracing and mineral finish. Tailor-made for mussels. Vintages. LCBO 960955

Tomero 2007 Torrontés
$14.85 | Mendoza, Argentina | 86 points
With similarities to varieties from northwestern Spain, the fragrant grapefruit and floral torrontés grape is Argentina’s signature white. Lavender, incense, tangerine and licorice aromas in a tender, barely off-dry style. Very good length. www.metrowines.com.

Tscharke 2006 Girl Talk Albarino
$29.15 | Barossa Valley, South Australia | 90 points
The first albariño I’ve seen from the New World displays all the right yellow fruit and floral notes from the Spanish motherland. Full bodied, mellow and warm, with a long orange pekoe finish. www.bwwines.com.