Weekly Lunch Pick
73 Stirs
New owners have let light into the former Cyrano’s space, bringing forth a cleanly designed restaurant for the King and Bay set By Andrew Brudz
The silver-and-white palette of 73 Stirs is a marked counterpoint to
its colourful lunch menu
Image credit: Jessica Darmanin
The place: The owners of the oddly monikered 73 Stirs have done away with the woody boys’ club feel of Cyrano’s, the former occupant of this King Street space. Though labelled as casual dining, the interior feels more elegant, with faux ostrich leather benches, stainless steel light fixtures and a silver-and-white colour palette. The food, the hovering service and the easy-listening music, however, are certainly casual. Winter-hued decor seems a little icy on an unseasonably cold Tuesday afternoon, but come summer it will feel clean, bright and refreshing.
The crowd: The sparse population is a mix of St. Lawrence ladies-who-lunch and Bay Street business folk distracted by a muted TV tuned to BNN.
The deal: Helping to reposition the location as a lunchtime hot spot, rather than an after-work watering hole, is a sandwich board listing, well, sandwiches. The eclectic collection—all inventively described on the menu—includes beef au jus and bocconcini pesto ($9–$12). Salads ($9–$6), pizza ($11–$13), pasta ($12–$18) and seafood entrées ($14–$22) are also available, but a casual survey of other tables reveals that the sandwiches are most popular.
The dish: The classic lunchtime duo: soup and sandwich. The carrot and ginger bisque is light on ginger but qualifies as a warm and hearty start, especially accompanied by an overflowing basket of fresh bread slices (the pre-packaged soda crackers are unnecessary, even a touch too casual). The sandwich—truffle-scented mushrooms with goat cheese stuffed into a croissant—is surprisingly light and grease-free: the pastry is flaky and fresh, the mushrooms tender and flavourful. With nicely crisp fries on the side, this unintentionally vegetarian lunch satisfies without overwhelming.
The time: In and out in 53 minutes (including lots of chit-chat).
The cost: $30.31, including tax, tip and a glass of pinot grigio ($8.25).
73 Stirs, 73 King St. E. (at Church St.), 416-362-4342.
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