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Foie gras, surprise caviar orders and one tight ship: my 12-hour stage at Splendido

Renée Suen — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 19:47:04 +0000

The service entrance at Splendido (click any image for more info)

Our regular contributor Renée Suen was recently invited to put away her fork and don an apron to stage at Splendido (a culinary stage is a brief and usually unpaid educational stint at a restaurant). Renée is an ambitious home cook, but her professional experience consists mostly of high school summers working at a soup and sandwich shop and weekends slinging bubble tea during university. Can she handle the heat of 12 hours in a professional kitchen? Will chef de cuisine Patrick Kriss make her cry? Find out below, and check out our behind-the-scenes gallery at the end. Words and pictures by Renée Suen

12:23 a.m. (the night before): Chef Kriss messages me to make sure I’m still game. I send my confirmation and tell him about my borrowed (but new!) slip-resistant shoes, which are a half-size too big for me. He laughs at me.

10:55 a.m.: I arrive at Splendido’s service entrance and recognize Kevin Jeung (who moonlights at The Cookbook Store) among the eight cooks waiting nearby. I learn the names of my soon-to-be colleagues (including Vanessa, a new intern from Humber College, and Alain, one of the chefs de partie). I also learn that there’s a stagiaire from The County General, Splendido’s sister restaurant, who was accepted to stage on the condition that he shave his beard of five years. He did.

11:08 a.m: Kriss arrives and I follow the chefs into the bowels of Splendido’s two-level kitchen. Everyone puts on their chef’s whites and gets busy at their stations; I feel like a lost sheep. Kriss sets me up with garde-mangers Andrew and Rob, who give me the glamorous job of taking fresh herbs and packaging them for proper storage.

11:40 a.m.: My herb-picking instructions: pick out the best leaves, leaving about six millimetres of stem, then gently wash and dry them and pack them for storage.

12:02 p.m.: The entire brigade congregates at the bar for a brief (I stick to the side). Everyone’s equipped with a notebook, a pen and plastic containers of coffee. Kriss goes through the game plan for the day, the special menus planned for the week and the upcoming TBD dinner he’s hosting. Staff members acknowledge their duties with a respectful “Oui.”

12:21 p.m.: Rob comes by and tells me that stems aren’t necessary on the mint leaves. I have to go back through all my leaves to pick the stems off. At least I haven’t burned anything down yet. Meanwhile, Kriss works on some brussels sprouts taken from the garde-manger station and inspects the deliveries coming into the kitchen. He also tests out a new dish of cold cherrywood-smoked oysters.

1:31 p.m.: I’m now on my last batch of herbs, blue cress. I’m a little nervous about the low yield. Kriss looks over at my station and tells me my cress leaves aren’t blue enough. Sigh.

Next up, Renée gets to use a knife! »

Weekly Lunch Pick: the refined decadence of Splendido’s holiday tasting menu

Matthew Fox — Mon, 05 Dec 2011 12:30:06 +0000

The foie gras appetizer in Splendido’s luxurious European Retreat lunch tasting menu (Image: Matthew Fox)

December’s here, and that means cold weather and holiday decadence. Splendido, Harbord Street’s temple of special-occasion dining, has responded in its usual fashion: the $75 five-course European Retreat lunch special, available every Friday (and certain Thursdays) for the rest of the month. The pace and flavours of this marathon tasting menu are inspired by the Mediterranean, but the ease and luxury of the meal reflect chef Victor Barry’s attention to detail. Each experience is meticulously planned: the amuse-bouche of potato-leek soup, for example, comes in a heated shot glass and is topped with a slick of olive oil, a coordinated moment of heaven for the nose, mouth and fingertips. On the same plate (or rather, plank of wood), are little rosemary marshmallows on edible Parmesan bark; every crunchy microfibre and cloudy puff feels intentional. An appetizer of foie gras could be mistaken for a delicious Pollock painting, with rich cubes of the stuff served artfully alongside sculpted pears and droplets of vanilla syrup. The risotto primo is both gentle and rough, with Merguez sausage and saffron sauce on rice that’s Platonically al dente. For the main, we sampled both the short rib and the roasted sea bass. Each is exceedingly competent in its execution, but eclipsed by the meal’s peripheral stunners, like the Carles Roquefort cheese served with rye crostini and candied Pink Lady apples (the collision of flavours is so intense, it shut down our other senses so we could focus on our tastebuds). Closing the meal with a low-ball glass layered with chocolate verrine, caramel and peanut ice cream is excessive to the point of debauchery—but that’s what makes it so perfect.

Cost: $100 after tax and tip

Time: Just take the afternoon off (2 hours, 18 minutes)

N.B.: European Retreat served December 2, 9, 15, 16, 22, 23

Splendido, 88 Harbord St., 416-929-7788, splendido.ca

In a bid to stop the “mega-quarry,” Michael Stadtländer rallies (nearly) every chef we’ve ever heard of for Foodstock

Mishki Vaccaro — Thu, 13 Oct 2011 20:36:52 +0000

Michael Stadtländer has rallied 100 of the best chefs from across Canada to participate in Foodstock, an epic, pay-what-you-can public food event on October 16 to raise money to fight the construction of a huge limestone quarry in the town of Honeywood, Ontario. The Highland Companies’ plan aims to span 2,316 acres of land and run 189 feet deep (deeper than Niagara Falls), and will have to pump 600 million litres of groundwater out of the pit each day (about the same amount used by 2.7 million Ontarians), all to extract crushed stone known as amabel dolostone.

Stadtländer argues that the quarry would result in the loss of prime Ontario farmland and would threaten local wildlife and the integrity of much of Ontario’s freshwater resources, since the proposed land is below the water table. “It’s some of the best farmland in Ontario, and it’s only 100 kilometres away from Toronto,” he told The Grid. “We are really only at the dawn of local food right now. The human population is growing and we really have to secure places where we can grow food.” Perhaps the best comment we’ve heard in reaction to the event comes from David Waters, an Orangeville real estate agent and Foodstock volunteer, who told the Toronto Star: “You can’t eat gravel.” Event details and tickets available here.

The list of contributing chefs is a staggering tour of southern Ontario locavorism:

Toronto:

Paul Böehmer and Milana Lise from Böhmer
Teo Paul from Union
Adam Colquhoun and Robert Bechard from Oyster Boy
JP Challet from Ici Bistro
Lola Kirk from Ruby Watcho
Jeffery Cladio from Scarpetta
Chris Brown from The Stop Community Food Centre
Jamie Kennedy from Jamie Kennedy Kitchens
Aaron Bear Robe from Keriwa Café
Fabio Boni and Michael Sangregorio from Local Kitchen and Wine Bar and Bar Salumi
Luis Valenzuela from Torito Tapas Bar
Victor Barry from Splendido and The County General
Albert Ponzo from Le Select Bistro
Hiro Yoshida from Hiro Sushi
Anthony Walsh from Bannok and Oliver and Bonacini Restaurants
Carole Ferrari from Locale Café
Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovan from Marben
Michael Sacco from Chocosol Chocolate Traders
David Kokai from Loïc Gourmet
Anthony Rose from The Drake Hotel
Derek Bendig and Colen Quinn from Pangaea
Zane Caplansky from Caplansky’s
Evelyne Gharbirian from Hearty Catering
Rodney Bowers from Hey Meatball
Matty Matheson from Parts and Labour
Derek Zavislake from Merchants of Green Coffee
Keith Froggett from Scaramouche
Lorenzo Loseto from George Restaurant
Rob Gentile from Buca Restaurant
Patrick McMurray from Starfish Oyster Bed and Grill, Ceili Cottage
Joshna Maharaj
Steffan Howard from Palais Royale and Casa Loma
Kevin McKenna from Globe Bistro, Earth Rosedale and Earth Bloor West
Phillip Heilborn from Earth Bloor West
Trish Donnelly from Chef Donnelly Catering
Brad Long and Sarah Kuntz from Belong Café
John Higgins and Oliver Li from George Brown College
Daisuke Izatsu from Kaiseki Sakura
Christopher Palik from L-Eat Catering and Paese Ristorante
Daniel Muia from Mogette Bistro
Joe Levesque from the International Centre
Graham Pratt and Christine Fancy from The Gabardine
Giacomo Pasquini from Vertical
Aubrey Demers
Bertrand Alépée from The Tempered Chef
Fawzi Kotb from Veloute Bistro and Catering
Nick Laliberte from Poutini’s House of Poutine
Dawn Woodward and Edmund Rek from Evelyn’s Crackers
Jacob Sharkey Pearce from Two Brothers Inc.
Linda Burnside and Kevin Walters from Alternative Grounds
Alexandra Feswick from Brockton General
Diane Cartwright from Whole World Trade Ltd.
Jeff Brown and Jennifer Rashleigh from Delight
Lesia Kohut from LPK’s Culinary Groove
Anton Potvin and Nick Liu from Niagara Street Café
Johan Maes from Goed Eten

Durham:

Michael Schmidt and Chef Carey McLellan from Glencolton Farms

Mississauga:

Erica Trabulsi from The Culinary Art School of Ontario

Shelburne:

Rob Uffen from Rob Uffen’s Trout House

Rosemont:

Ross Midgley and Beth Hunt from The Globe Restaurant

Owen Sound:

Robin Pradhan from Rocky Raccoon Café

Creemore:

Michel Masselin from Chez Michel
Dave Nesbitt from Creemore Coffee Company
Don Akehurst from Sovereign Restaurant

Collingwood:

Gareth Carter from Men with Knives
Leona Nyman and Andrea Greyerbiehl from Azzurra
Jeremy Korten from Oliver and Bonacini Café Grill and Blue Mountain Restaurant
Mark and Christine Kraus from Espresso Post
Scott Chalmers and Andrew Barber from Simplicity Bistro
Christophe and Wispy Boivin from Tremont Café
Joelle Rogers from Tesoro Restaurant
Mike Duffin from One99 Broadway
Roger Genoe from Ravenna Country Market

Singhampton:

Martina Gómez and Jörg Neth from Haisai
Michael and Nobuyo Stadtländer from Eigensinn Farm

Orangeville:

Jason Reiner from The Mono Cliff’s Inn
Alex Johnston from Hockley Valley Resort

Flesherton:

Shawn Adler from The Flying Chestnut

Burlington:

Tobias Pohl-Weary from Red Canoe Bistro

Guelph:

Carin Balint from Garden of Vegan

Niagara:

Paul Harber from Ravine Vineyard
Janice Suarez
Ryan Crawford from The Stone Road Grille

Stratford:

Ruth Klahsen from Monforte Diary

Parry Sound:

Philip Patrick from The Ridge at Manitou

Barrie:

Matthew Flett from Georgian College
Randy Feltis from Oscars
David Keenan from At the Five
Daniel Hong and Anna Kim from Furasato Restaurant
Ceasar Guinto from Cravings Fine Food Market and Catering

Thornbury:

Shaun Edmonsteon and Jennifer Vipond from Bruce Wine Bar

Waterford:

Tracey Winkworth from The Belworth House

Aurora:

Jason D’Anna from Magna Golf Club

Ottawa:

Rob Fraser from Fraser Café

Saskatchewan:

Moe Mathieu

Nova Scotia:

Stefan Czapalay from Culinary Design Solutions

• Fully Stocked [Now Magazine]
• Foodstock fights mega-quarry with mega-feast [The Grid]
• In the forest with Michael Stadtlander [Toronto Star]

Introducing: The County General, Splendido’s younger sibling on Queen West

Catherine Gerson — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 17:34:32 +0000

Splendido’s younger, hipper (and possibly drunker) younger sibling (Image: Laurent Hilaire)

When we heard that Splendido co-owners Carlo Catallo and Victor Barry were taking over the Queen West space formerly occupied by Oddfellows, we were eager to see how they were going to bring their high-end background into a new spot and neighbourhood that were anything but. The result is The County General, a casual restaurant and bar where, it turns out, Catallo and Barry have a few new tricks up their sleeves—and aptly, in Catallo’s case, a bunch of tattoos as well.

The room, designed by Michael Rietta of Giannone Petricone Associates, features clean wooden lines running along the ceiling, which culminate in a bold stack of wood at the end of the bar reminiscent of a giant game of Jenga. Everything is local, down to the tables made of reclaimed Douglas fir from London, Ontario. Recycled barn windows frame bucolic photographs of Cumbrae’s farms, whose meat is featured on the menu.

Chef Garth Legree was plucked from Splendido’s staff to run the kitchen because, as Barry told us, “he was already making food we all loved to eat” (in other words, we can expect to see their cooks here after service). The trio of smoked pork belly and steamed buns ($12) come topped with kimchee, avocado chutney and green apple slaw, respectively, and are accompanied by a small squeeze bottle of hot sauce. A buttermilk-fried chicken thigh looks positively mammoth on its soft milk bun ($14) complete with homemade smoked ketchup on the side. Traditional lowball glasses are reimagined as receptacles for frites ($3). For dessert, a seemingly straightforward chocolate cupcake with buttercream frosting ($3) has a hidden pocket of salted caramel in the center. The beer and wine list is proudly Canadian (seriously: it’s written on the menu) but the “Grog and Hooch” list is the real page-turner, with a selection of over 50 rums, bourbons, whiskeys and scotches (amateurs take heart: flights are available for educational purposes).

The seasoned staff (they’ve been dubbed generals and colonels) bring to the County some of its bigger brother’s sophistication and thoughtful service, not to mention a willingness to entertain special requests (gluten-free bread, say, or dairy-free chocolate). The platoon will be serving brunch, lunch, dinner, late-night snacks and even takeout.

The County General, 936 Queen St. W. (at Shaw St.), 416-531-4447, thecountygeneral.ca

Toronto Taste 2011: We get the latest news from top chefs and restaurateurs from Woodlot, Buca, Nota Bene, O&B and many more

Renée Suen — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 19:58:54 +0000

Rob Gentile (Buca), David Lee (Nota Bene), Andrea Nicholson (Great Cooks on Eight), Paul Boehmer (Böhmer), Teo Paul (Union)

Two thousand of Toronto’s food lovers and makers gathered at the ROM on Sunday for the 21st edition of Toronto Taste. The annual fundraiser—which raises money for Second Harvest—saw more than 60 restaurants and 30 beverage purveyors offering their best to the guests. Burgers and tacos might have been the plats du jour, but new restaurant openings seemed to be the hottest item on the plates of many chefs and restaurateurs we spoke to. Here’s what we heard from Buca’s Rob Gentile, Woodlot’s David Haman, Scarpetta’s Scott Conant, Splendido’s Victor Barry, Top Chef Canada contestants Dustin Gallagher and Andrea Nicholson and many more. Words and images by Renée Suen

Start the slideshow »

The 10 best pickled foods at Toronto restaurants

Eric Vellend — Wed, 05 Jan 2011 19:12:11 +0000

Pickled things—lovingly brined, jarred and served by the city’s star chefs—are the hottest grandmotherly food since cookies and milk. Here, the best of the puckery pack By Eric Vellend

See the list »

Best New Restaurants 2010

James Chatto — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 08:00:38 +0000

This time last year, the future looked awfully grim. We braced for restaurant closures and recessionary menus, but 2009 was surprising. Though we lost some good places (Perigee, Truffles, Alice’s and Gamelle, in particular), and mac-and-cheese quickly wore out its welcome, it was an exciting time to dine out. Anxious restaurateurs dropped corkage fees and slashed wine markups, while chefs cooked up imaginative prix fixe menus. It suited our mood as well as our wallets: these days, Torontonians want informality. We’re still hungry for local produce and nose-to-tail dining, chefs are once again finding inspiration in Italy and Japan, and the city is finally beginning to develop a serious cocktail culture. Most encouraging of all is the number of new restaurants opening. Here, the best of the vintage.

By James Chatto, Photographs by Brendan Meadows and Ryan Szulc, Illustrations by Jack Dylan

Splendido’s Victor Barry heading to Calgary on chef exchange—and Rush’s Justin Leboe comes here

Karon Liu — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 17:12:46 +0000

As Splendido’s second incarnation continues to draw praise, chef-proprietor Victor Barry is taking the restaurant’s buzz out west, where he will be taking over the kitchen at Calgary’s famous restaurant Rush—owned by Barry’s friend, chef Justin Leboe. “Justin and I worked together in Bermuda back in 2006, and we talked about getting back together,” explains Barry as he prepares for the Eat, Drink and Give benefit at Roy Thomson Hall Tuesday evening. “He’s going to be here on April 7, and I’m going to be there on March 24.” Menus for the Leboe-Barry exchange will be available next week.

“Both of us have the same philosophy when it comes to food,” he says. “We are committed to local and sustainable ingredients, and we’re also committed to classic culinary techniques. It’s going to be a lot of fun for the guys in the kitchen because they’re going to have a new chef and learn some new techniques.”

Barry hopes that this will be the first of many exchanges with chefs around the world. Though nothing has been set in stone, he says there’s a possibility he’ll be cooking in Italy in May.

Prix fixe, midnight madness: where to eat on New Year’s Eve

Fraser Abe — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 20:40:46 +0000

(Photo by Sally Mahoney)

December 31st is rapidly approaching, and the pressure’s on: what to do on New Year’s Eve? For those who hate crowds, messy house parties and shivering in Nathan Phillips Square but still don’t want to feel curmudgeonly come the stroke of midnight, Toronto’s best restaurants are offering multi-course meals at bargain prices. Here, our list of nine of the best prix fixe menus throughout the city. (Looking for the guide to Toronto’s high profile NYE parties? Click here »)

L’Unità
Av and Dav might be known more for flower shops than fine dining, but this Italian restaurant has been winning over critics since it opened in 2007. L’Unità is serving a five-course meal for $95, including a quail and porcini mushroom risotto and a Muscovy duck confit, served with bitter greens, roasted fingerling potatoes, aged balsamic vinegar and pomegranate agrodolce (a savoury sauce).
L’Unità, 134 Avenue Rd., 416-964-8686. Read the Toronto Life review of L’Unità »

C5
Chef de cuisine Ted Corrado serves up a five-course meal for $98 in the ROM Crystal. Leave the slightly cheaper 5 p.m. seating to the grandparents, and head to C5 at eight for a glass of sparkling wine, followed by a meal of chestnut–goat cheese soufflé, roast goose or Cumbrae Farms beef short ribs. All selections can also be paired with wine for $125.
C5, 100 Queen’s Park, 416-586-7928. Read the Toronto Life review of C5 »

Didier
Didier Leroy is the consummate French chef, a distinction illustrated by his New Year’s menu, which is appropriately written in French. Such courses as soupe de marron (chestnut soup), huitres (oysters), foie gras poêlé (pan-fried foie gras) and filet de loup (sea bass) with caviar are on offer for $100 per person.
Didier, 1496 Yonge St., 416-925-8588. Read the Toronto Life review of Didier »

Splendido
The revamped space, far less stuffy than before, is a great setting for a New Year’s celebration. Chef de cuisine Victor Barry will be offering a foie gras parfait with toasted brioche, black truffle pappardelle, pancetta-wrapped elk sirloin with cheese, and crème fraîche dessert for only $100. Diners can booze up their dinner with five wine pairings for an additional $75.
Splendido, 88 Harbord St., 416-929-7788. Read the Toronto Life review of Splendido »

Canoe
The Bay Streeter’s restaurant of choice presents a $150 five-course meal. The extensive menu offers four choices for each course, so expect to overhear frequent dithering from adjacent tables. Try the iced Qualicum beach scallops with Dungeness crab jelly, spiced turban squash and puffed rice, or the plate of cured and raw meats, including pheasant and Quebec foie gras terrine, with Cumbrae steak tartare and suckling pig rolls. Add another $50 for wine pairings with the meal.
Canoe, TD Centre, 66 Wellington St. W., 54th flr., 416-364-0054. Read the Toronto Life review of Canoe »

Auberge du Pommier
At this uptown French restaurant, the six-course prix fixe is $115, complete with palate-cleansing sorbet. We want to try the parsley root soup with king crab and lobster boudin blanc, the apple mustard–crusted pork and confit of belly. For an extra $30, Auberge offers three glasses of wine to be paired with the food selections.
Auberge du Pommier, 4150 Yonge St., 416-222-2220. Read the Toronto Life review of Auberge du Pommier »

Colborne Lane
One of Toronto’s most inventive chefs, Claudio Aprile is offering a $99 tasting menu, which diners can supplement with a $69 wine pairing. The menu isn’t finalized yet (it appears to change almost daily), but we are told it will be similar to current offerings, like miso-glazed black cod with sesame panna cotta, green onion sauce, pistachio and puffed tapioca, sockeye salmon sashimi with yuzu vinaigrette, and black sesame caviar.
Colborne Lane, 45 Colborne St., 416-368-9009. Read the Toronto Life review of Colborne Lane »

Trevor Kitchen and Bar
Good luck choosing a main at Trevor Wilkinson’s eponymous restaurant: options include champagne- and butter-poached lobster with macaroni and asiago, dry-aged Alberta beef tenderloin with brisket and onion gratin, and a 16-ounce Provimi veal chop with cauliflower ravioli and hedgehog mushrooms. The $69 set menu also offers sides à la carte, like truffled goat cheese poutine ($10) and buttermilk mashed potatoes ($7).
Trevor Kitchen and Bar, 38 Wellington St. E., 416-941-9410. Read the Toronto Life review of Trevor Kitchen and Bar »

The Fifth Grill and Terrace
For some, avoiding the entertainment district might be a crucial condition of an enjoyable New Year’s Eve, but intrepid souls willing to brave Richmond Street for a taste of The Fifth’s special meal will be rewarded. Eight courses cost $95; choose from lobster ravioli with fennel in a seafood bisque, truffle-infused beef tenderloin with a bordelaise sauce, and terrine of foie gras. This meal is sure to leave many revellers too tired for any festivities, but for the wild ones, dinner includes entrance to the nightclub Easy.
The Fifth Grill, 225 Richmond St. W., 416-979-3005. Read the Toronto Life review of The Fifth Grill »

Also: Check out our 10-part field guide to Toronto’s high profile NYE parties »

Splendido re-opens with lower prices and less champagne

Josh Dehaas — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 17:00:57 +0000

Champagne is out and cocktails are in at the newly made-over Splendido, which opened Tuesday for dinner. “Everything but the pea soup has changed,” says co-owner Carlo Cattalo, who recently bought the Harbord Street mainstay along with chef Victor Barry. The top-notch service will also remain, despite dramatically different decor, prices and menu.

The first thing regulars noticed were the chipper sky blue walls (we also spotted trendy new high-top tables and swanky lights at the bar), but the real shock likely came at the end of the meal. The bills are now about half of what they used to be.

The lower prices are part of the plan to keep customers coming back rather than just for anniversaries and birthdays. “We want to be a destination for foodies, for oenophiles, for the business community,” says Cattalo, “but also a place where people can drop by without having to commit to staying for three hours.” That’s why the tasting menu has been cut, at least for now.

Barry’s fresh pasta, which he prepares daily at 4 p.m., is the new focus. The most popular on opening night was the maltagliati with octopus, olives and capers (appetizer, $15; main course, $25), but Cattalo’s favourite is the pappardelle with braised pulled local rabbit and artichokes ($17, $27), inspired by a version his father made.

The pair plan to serve more wines by the glass but promise the selection of bottles won’t suffer. Cattalo and Barry have purchased the entire stock from previous owners David Lee and Yannick Bigoudan (now of Nota Bene) that Cattalo helped collect during his eight years as manager and sommelier.

While he’s excited at the prospect of adding some esoteric vintages, he says the champagne trolley has been retired. “Drinking champagne is for when times are good and the money is flowing,” says Cattalo. That won’t be anytime soon.

Susur Lee for $385, popcorn as Viagra, prison food gripes

Matthew Halliday — Sat, 27 Jun 2009 16:28:58 +0000

Slaw slinger: Susur Lee gives Torontonians a taste of his new menus

• For $385, fans of Susur Lee can experience the All Things Susur Lee package at the SoHo Metropolitan Hotel. Included is an overnight stay at the hotel and a five-course tasting meal with selections from Lee’s restaurants in Toronto, New York, Washington and his not-yet-open RUYI, which will be located in Singapore. [National Post]

• 36-year-old journalist Leanne Davis tries a mid-career transformation into a pastry chef with help from Splendido’s Michael Angeloni and Victor Barry. Turns out pastry making is a more exacting—and back-breaking—discipline than she ever imagined. [Toronto Star]

• Oklahoma City bomber Terry Nichols is aggrieved by the shockingly bad meals served at Colorado Supermax prison, where he’s incarcerated. He claims the processed edibles are a violation of his constitutional rights and cause him to “sin against God” by violating his “holy temple.” To bolster his case, he’s enlisted an abortion clinic bomber who takes an equally dim view of the food. [Examiner]

• Lay off the jujubes and load up on popcorn. Men’s Health magazine claims that the cinema nibbles improve blood flow and sperm count thanks to a nutrient called arginine, making popcorn a sort of snack food Viagra. [Guardian]

• The Indian military is developing a hand grenade that will contain chili powder from one of the hottest peppers on Earth, the bhut jolokia, which measures over one million on the Scoville “hotness” scale. For comparison, a jalapeño ranks at 3,000 and a habanero tops out at 350,000. [Reuters]

Splendido changes ownership but stays in the “family”

Davida Aronovitch — Thu, 26 Mar 2009 19:54:11 +0000

The new guard: Carlo Cattalo, left, and Victor Barry (Photo by Davida Aronovitch)

Splendido is changing hands. The star-powered duo that revived the powerhouse Harbord Street restaurant—proprietor Yannick Bigourdan and chef David Lee—announced this week that they will be handing the shop to general manager Carlo Cattalo and chef de cuisine Victor Barry. According to those involved, the transfer has been in the works for some time. Loyalists may rest easy, though: major evolution is envisioned for this summer, but Cattalo promises that “the spirit of Splendido has been passed on. It’s all about refreshing, not recreating.”

Local foodies are speculating that the change is recession related, but Cattalo claims that bad times have nothing to do with it. The shift in partnership was set in motion by the rise of talented chef Victor Barry and accelerated by the success of Nota Bene—Splendido’s more casual sibling on Queen Street West—which often kept Bigourdan and Lee off-site.

It’s not the first time that the business has been passed down this way. When Lee bought the house in 1991, he’d been part of then-owner Franco Prevedello’s circle at Centro. “Splendido is a place to grow up,” says Cattalo. “And Victor is a chef of 27. He’s reaching his prime.” Cattalo has also come of age since he started as manager and sommelier in 2001: “Seven years ago, I wasn’t ready to own a restaurant, but I am now. We’re the next generation.”

Bigourdan characterized the transaction as “a family deal, almost,” and with any familial legacy comes the challenge of asserting the next generation’s identity. Barry is conscious of the difficulty he faces in making his mark on the menu, despite his education (both he and Lee trained in England and are French influenced) and three years in the kitchen under Lee. Still, the young chef is confident that he’s already asserting his own style. “The progression of food here for the past year has had a lot to do with me,” he says. It’s no surprise that his menu will be seasonal, locally sourced and family farmed. “I shake hands with the farmers. I know them,” he says. He even gives growers seeds for ingredients uncommon in the area, like European espelette peppers. “The food will have my own fingerprint on it,” he says. We hope that’s just a metaphor.

As for ambience, the somewhat sober—some even say sombre—atmosphere of Splendido will also get a youthful refresh. The calm, special-occasion tenor will give way to a more relaxed feel. “We want to make it a bit more upbeat,” explains Cattalo, who hopes to keep his devoted clientele while appealing to a broader range of diners by emphasizing value. No takeover—no matter how amicable—would be complete without a facelift to reflect the new vision. Talks are still in progress, but the team is eyeing Ralph Giannone to renovate the space during a three-week period in early July. The designer’s emphasis on location is a good match for Cattalo’s aim of making the decor reflect the food and its chef-artist.

This revival could be the 20-year-old Splendido’s third coming. But Cattalo will be doing what he always does, what Bigourdan has been encouraging him to do since day one: “Carlo, he said, run this restaurant as if it’s your own.”