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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Ursa, a new Queen West restaurant serving modern Canadian cuisine (that’s secretly good for you too)

Inside the sleek space that used to house Bar One (Image: Meaghan Binstock)

Back in July, the owners of Trinity-Bellwoods staple Bar One announced they were shutting its doors after an 11-year run. Six months and one gut job later, the dramatically transformed space, complete with sleek burned wood panelling and constellations of bare hanging bulbs, has reopened as Ursa, with brothers and first-time owners Jacob and Lucas Sharkey-Pearce at the helm. Jacob, the executive chef, is no stranger to the industry, with a pedigree that includes Thuet Bistro, Centro and the Windsor Arms Hotel. And while Cosimo Mammoliti of Terroni fame is the restaurant’s third (and mostly silent) partner, the menu is almost the exact opposite of that chain’s carb-heavy Southern Italian comfort food (the brothers started off as teenage employees at the Queen Street location).

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: The Combine Eatery, the new place for fish tacos on the Danforth

Outside the new southwestern restaurant (Image: Karolyne Ellacott)

The Combine Eatery, a new southwestern comfort food spot started by siblings Albert and Amy Chan, stands out from the slew of Greek eateries along the Danforth strip. Amy’s background in fashion frequently led her to San Diego, where she quickly took to gobbling up fish tacos during her downtime, which was the starting point for the restaurant.

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The Goods

From the Print Edition

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The List: 10 things restaurateur and Top Chef Canada judge Shereen Arazm can’t live without

The List: ShereenArazm

The List: ShereenArazmMy ciccio fix
Terroni founder Cosimo Mammoliti invented the ciccio, the world’s best sandwich: prosciutto, bocconcini and arugula folded into pizza crust. When I opened my own Terroni in L.A., I made sure it was on the menu.

The List: ShereenArazmMy shades
My eyes are sensitive to light, so I keep sunglasses everywhere. My favourites are polarized Ray-Bans with tortoiseshell frames. I think I had the same ones in the ’80s.

The List: ShereenArazmMy ultimate comfort food
There’s nothing like my mom’s chocolate cake anywhere. She makes it for me every year on my birthday.

My dad’s rug
When he was 14, my dad left Iran to go to school in Europe. He rolled up this small rug and carried it on top of his backpack to bring a piece of home with him. Then he brought it to Canada and I brought it to the U.S. Right now it’s at the door to my daughter’s bedroom.

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Q&A with Hemant Bhagwani: the Amaya co-owner on building his Indian restaurant empire

Although the recession is officially over, its effects—shuttered doors and restaurants offering humbler, more comfort-driven cuisine—can still be seen on Toronto’s culinary landscape. So we were a bit surprised when we heard the news that the Amaya Group is set to open yet another outpost next month, this time on Ossington. With even further expansion ahead, we asked Amaya co-owner Hemant Bhagwani about the secrets to his success and the future of the empire.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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The sipper club: meet the city’s competitive cabal of top sommeliers

Will Predhomme belongs to a competitive cabal of top sommeliers who sniff, sip and spit their way through hundreds of bottles a week. They do this to help you decide what to drink with your dinner, while making you think it was your idea all along

One hundred and fifty-one people have reservations at Canoe tonight. Among these are many Bay Streeters, a couple celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary, dozens of people on dates, including the bar manager from Crush, and a young woman who plans to propose to her boyfriend over dinner. The two private dining rooms are fully booked.

Canoe, part of the ever-expanding Oliver and Bonacini empire, is routinely considered one of the finest restaurants in the city. Last summer, in a rigorous competition held by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, known as CAPS, Canoe’s head sommelier, Will Predhomme, was proclaimed Ontario’s best. Predhomme has devoted a third of his life—he’s 29—to wine scholarship. He now knows more about wine than almost anyone in Toronto.

Just after 5 p.m., the bar area begins to fill up with commuters sipping cocktails as they wait for the traffic on the clogged Gardiner, 54 floors below, to dissipate. One of the restaurant’s first guests, a retired trial lawyer, arrives. As a young female host escorts him to his large corner table, he puts an arm around her shoulder. “I don’t like to pay bills,” he says. “I want a fucking account. Last time I was here, I offered those ladies”—referring to the hosts who greeted him at his last visit—“$300 and told them to set up an account for me. And I still don’t have one.” He and his three dining companions, Canoe regulars, have brought in several bottles of their own wine, including a cabernet franc from the ex-lawyer’s private vineyard in Tuscany. When Predhomme arrives at the table to discuss the wine, the ex-lawyer, captivatingly bratty in a way that only the rich and sort-of-powerful can be, repeats his complaint. “Look, I spend about $50,000 a year at Bymark, and I’d do the same here if I had a fucking account.” Predhomme is unmoved, but gracious. “If you give me your contact information,” he says, “I’ll make sure that it gets to the right people.”

“You’ll get me an account?”

“I’ll look into it.”

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Fanny Chadwick’s, a friendly new diner in a familiar Annex spot

Fanny Chadwick’s owners Leanne Martineau and Sarah Baxter (Image: Gizelle Lau)

For years, the house-turned-restaurant at the corner of Dupont and Howland has been something of a neighbourhood eyesore, a reminder to longtime Annex locals of the site’s heyday as Angelo’s Diner. When the most recent tenant, AAA Chinese, shut down, Leanne Martineau (Terroni, Senses) and Sarah Baxter (The Feathers), both Annex residents and 20-year food-industry veterans, decided to bring the old diner back to life. One year and half a million dollars in renovations later, this corner house has been transformed into Fanny Chadwick’s, a neighbourhood diner named after a 19th-century Annex playwright (the chapel at Royal St. George’s College features a stained glass window dedicated to her).

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing Parkette: Italian comfort food, Trinity Bellwoods style

(Image: Davida Aronovitch)

Aptly named for its proximity to Trinity Bellwoods, Parkette is yet another new, rustic Italian outpost, this time only a couple blocks away from Terroni, which, arguably, launched the trend in Toronto. Cheery and warm, the 30-seat space features sandy blond woods, exposed brick, a playful park bench banquette in classic picnic green and a kitschy vintage Coca-Cola sign.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Frisky Business: Chris Nuttall-Smith takes on Mark McEwan’s Fabbrica

Bling king Mark McEwan has abandoned his usual opulence with Fabbrica. It’s loud, lusty and the one thing elite chefs tend to forget: fun

(Image: Vanessa Heins)

After four hit restaurants, two television shows, one catering company, one high-end grocery emporium and 26 years as a hospitality magnate (plus another 10 as a mere chef before that), Mark McEwan has his formula down. The chef mixes knowing, professional service with French-Italian food that’s expertly prepared, exorbitantly priced and touched with just enough exoticisms (chipotle-yuzu aïoli, “laughing bird” shrimp, “illokai,” which lesser places just call passion fruit) to keep it all safely au courant. McEwan’s not a businessman; he’s a business, man—a consistent, constantly expanding luxury brand in a time when luxury was supposed to have been given up for dead. The feel of his places is exclusive and timeless, but in that late-’90s way, where the design is spare, the market is always rising, and Thievery Corporation—those turn-of-the-century masters of inoffensive and vaguely international electro-pop—plays in the background to keep things light.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: La Bettola di Terroni

The latest addition to the Terroni empire lives up to its famous name

The place: La Bettola di Terroni is the boisterous new member of the Terroni family. There is plenty of culinary crossover here: it shares a kitchen with Osteria Ciceri e Tria next door and several menu items with Terroni Adelaide. While it’s certainly the most casual of all the Terroni incarnations, it boasts an impressive wine selection and a stylishly rustic interior by Giannone Petricone Associates Inc. with graphics by Small Design, proving “bettola” (Italian for a dive or shabby restaurant) a humble misnomer.

The crowd: A lively full house, with the typical downtown mix of suits, tourists and shoppers.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Best of the City 2010: 14 picks for the top food in Toronto

Leaf fan: Matchbox Gardens grows rare and wonderful lettuces (Image: Jay Shuster)

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The Hype

The American Invasion

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Pretty woman walking down the street: Julia Roberts is in Toronto

Julia Roberts doing double denim on Queen West (Image: Mr. Will-W.)

Julia Roberts is in Toronto shooting Jesus Henry Christ, a film she’s producing starring Martin Michael Sheen and Toni Collette, and of course, there have been a number of pretty woman sightings. According to Shinan Govani, Roberts was spotted Tuesday dining at Terroni, browsing the macaroon delicacies at Nadège Patisserie, foraging through the vintage sartorial selections at Preloved and picking up some how-to-knit reads at Type Books. Her outfit: pale jeans and a denim shirt. That’s right, double denim. So, then, it’s official—Julia Roberts is a Queen West hipster.

• City woman [National Post]
More Julia Roberts in Toronto [Mr. Will-W.]

The Dish

Culinary Curiosities

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Water buffalo cheese is the latest in artisinal dairy

Water buffalo have picky milking needs (Photo by Cathy, Sam, Max and Mai)

Two years ago, Martin Littkemann and Lori Smith were tired of milking cows, so the couple purchased 40 young water buffalo for their farm north of Trenton. Since then, the herd has grown to over 100, and they’ve launched Ontario Water Buffalo Co. The milk is sold to Vaughan’s Quality Cheese, where it’s turned into small-batch cheese and sold at Pusateri’s, Whole Foods and select Loblaws and Longo’s. It’s also been served at Pizzeria Libretto, Terroni and Buca.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Toronto’s five best pizzas

If the hour-long lineups at Libretto are any indication, Toronto’s thin-crust lust has never been more fierce. Five slices for pizza lovers with artisanal appetites.

bestpizza

The duck confit pizza from Pizzeria Libretto (Photo by Daniel Shipp)

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Mysterious Charlie Burger is blogging from East Africa

Nairobi's Carnivore Restauarnt: abandon hope all vegetarians who enter here (Photo by Paul Brockmeyer)

Nairobi's Carnivore Restaurant: abandon hope, all vegetarians who enter here (Photo by Paul Brockmeyer)

While the identity of Charlie Burger remains a mystery (most locals speculate that he’s a composite of T.O. restaurant people), the man behind covert “anti-restaurant” Charlie’s Burgers has posted a culinary itinerary of his recent trip to Africa. Burger, identified here as a nonagenarian Dutchman who settled in Toronto in 1999, was accompanied by Madame Burger on a culinary-inspired tour of Kenya, preceded by a stopover in Qatar. The foods sampled were decidedly less risqué than one would expect from the individual responsible for a menu featuring queen ant Thai salad and worm risotto. Sashimi from Jean-Georges’ upscale Spice Market or pastries from Gaston Lenotre’s Doha aren’t wildly audacious choices. Even the infamous Carnivore Restaurant in Nairobi, known for its wild game meats, was only able to dish up some crocodile and ostrich—kind of exotic, but would it dazzle one of Charlie’s own carefully screened customers?

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The Dish

Opening

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Terroni empire expands with a new wine bar on Victoria Street

Construction is under way in the space beside Osteria Ciceri e Tria as the Terroni empire begins work on its new wine bar, called La Bettola di Terroni, slated to open early next year. Vince Mammoliti, manager of Terroni’s Queen Street location and brother of Terroni co-founder Cosimo, says it’s “an informal space where exclusive wines can be enjoyed at an enoteca featuring rustic food along with some Terroni classics.”

Despite it being a separate concept, the new bar will share a kitchen with Osteria, so expect a similar menu of rustic Italian cuisine (we’re pretty sure that the no-substitution rule will be in effect here, as well). Martini Boys reports that the chef at Terroni’s Los Angeles location will be creating the menu, and the interior will be a collaboration between Andrew De Rosa and Ralph Giannone, who also worked on Le Select, Bar Italia and the Queen West Terroni.

When asked to spill further details, Mammoliti says La Bettola is still largely a work-in-progress and tells us more information will be given out in the New Year.

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