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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Lee Lounge, the latest incarnation of Susur Lee’s King West space

Susur Lee presides over his new Lee Lounge (Image: Renée Suen)

After teasing a hungry public for over half a year, Susur Lee, arguably the city’s most internationally recognized chef, opened his newest venture Lee Lounge last week. Formerly Susur, and then Madeline’s, the room has undergone a striking transformation at the hands of Brenda Bent (Lee’s wife and business partner) and Karen Gable—the duo responsible for many of Lee’s spaces, including the neighbouring Lee.

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The Hype

From the Print Edition

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The inn crowd: Toronto’s five new luxury hotels

Over the next couple of years, this city will get five new luxury hotels. It starts with the Thompson, which opens its high-concept doors this month and promises to be ground zero for the beautiful people

If you build it: the Thompson Toronto, on Wellington West, is the first international arm of the New York–based brand (Illustration: Kagan McLeod)

Lately, King West is an urban cloud nine: designer condos, old brick studio spaces, fantastic carpaccio. Only 15 years ago, no one had much reason to venture down here—not for work, not to live, not for a dining scene, because there wasn’t one. There were no ad agencies, no Susur Lee joints, no Spoke Club and certainly no boutique hotels. But now the dozen or so blocks bounded by Spadina and Bathurst, from Adelaide down to Wellington, are a humming, self-sustaining ecosystem—a model of how to retrofit a vintage downtown neighbourhood.

Real estate agents call this part of town King West Village, a handle the locals find too artificial to pass their lips, especially considering the place isn’t yet fully formed. At every turn, there’s a construction site, or a gaping hole in the ground, or a lot with a target on its back, almost all of them bearing the same signage: an artful graphic in lower case letters saying “freed.” It’s not an existentialist statement; “Freed” stands for Peter Freed, the Forest Hill–bred developer who has nine projects on the go in the area. No one has been a bigger catalyst of the evolution of King West, or capitalized on it more, than Freed. His real estate portfolio, mainly condos, is worth $1 billion, and much of it is geared to a highly specific breed: a 35-ish, design-obsessed demographic that wears Japanese denim, listens to Phoenix, works in advertising or banking or consults in high tech, travels often and widely, and stays at properties designed by Ian Schrager, the Manhattan entrepreneur often credited with founding the boutique hotel genre. In King West, Freed has prepared a landing strip for these hipster high flyers (and those who aspire to become them). They’re not rich, necessarily. Their ambition is to be tastefully in the know.

For them, Freed has invested in a crowning achievement, a gleefully anticipated light box on Wellington: the 102-room Thompson Toronto, which is scheduled to open its high-concept doors this month.

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The Dish

Rumours & Rumblings

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Madeline’s massive make-over: name changes, construction and the return of Susur Lee

Don’t panic at the sight of shuttered windows at Madeline’s. The place closed on April 10 but will re-emerge in early June as Susur Lee’s next Toronto restaurant.

Brenda Bent, Lee’s wife and the person in charge of redoing Madeline’s space, tells us that after Dominic Amaral’s departure last year to become head chef at Zucca Trattoria, it was time to give the place an update—especially since her husband will be cooking in Toronto more often now. Lee’s contracts say that he has to check up on Shang (in New York) only three times a month, Zentan (in Washington) three times every two months and Chinois (in Singapore) about four times a year.

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Susur Lee thinks Torontonians are more adventurous eaters than New Yorkers

Toronto will never be like New York, and for Susur Lee, that’s a good thing. The Toronto Sun caught up with Lee—who opened Shang in Manhattan a little over a year ago—to talk about New York’s restaurant biz. Despite the city being filled with rich and powerful foodies, Lee admits that it hasn’t been an easy ride and that diners are still pinching pennies. “It has been a very tough year,” Lee says, adding that he had to lower menu prices. “If I say everything is great, I’m lying to you. In New York, people are still driven by money, and they don’t want to show off their money in expensive restaurants right now. They feel the pressure.”

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Susur Lee brings his New York menu to Toronto

Two weeks only: Susur's back on King Street (Photo by aser)

Two weeks only: Susur's back on King Street (Photo by aser)

After making news—some good, some bad—with his new restaurant, Shang, over the past four months, Susur Lee is bringing the menu of his Manhattan venture to Toronto for a brief cameo. The celebrity chef will offer his newest creations at both of his satellite restaurants, Lee and Madeline’s, with a special prix fixe menu. For the first two weeks in April, Torontonians will be able to sample a three-course Shang offering from Monday to Wednesday for $35 and $1 corkage, as well as a five-course Shang menu from Monday to Saturday for $60.

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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The New York Times finally reviews Shang

Add one more to the stack of tepid reviews of Susur Lee’s Lower East Side fusion restaurant. In today’s New York Times, critic Frank Bruni summarized his experience at Shang thusly: “Pleasant, but inconsistent and uneventful. The magic that Mr. Lee reputedly made in Toronto hasn’t followed him here.” Ouch. Read on to find out how many stars were awarded to the restaurant.

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The Dish

Read All About It

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Toronto’s clandestine supper clubs, celebrity chef survival rates, Susur Lee’s PR ploy

Rats are back in the news (Photo by Socar Myles)

Rats are back in the news (Photo by Socar Myles)

• The recent rat fiasco at Loblaws’ Dupont location raised awareness across the city about food safety issues. Here, CTV’s detailed (read: gross) look at what can go wrong when rodents invade. [CTV]

• Underground supper clubs are more common in Toronto than we would have guessed. Apparently, the lawless establishments aren’t just for the rebellious; tight patron regulations ensure that they’re for the discerning foodie, too. [BlogTO]

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Susur Lee takes Manhattan—sort of

Susur Lee feeds Manhattan (Photo by Janine C)

Susur Lee (Photo by Janine C)

The verdicts are starting to trickle in for Susur Lee’s three-month-old Manhattan venture, Shang. New York magazine sent local legend Adam Platt to sample the wares, and his review is far from a rave. From the “generic club music” to the “scraggly sprays of cherry blossoms” and “lanterns made of what look like rumpled old stockings,” much about Shang appears to have left Platt unimpressed. He denounces the spiced beef cheeks as “curiously flavorless” and the oxtail dumpling soup as tasting “bland as dishwater.” Giving it two stars (out of five), he is most concerned about the restaurant’s prosaic setting and its remote location.

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