It might be hard to believe, but Winterlicious celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. That’s right: it’s been a whole decade of commoners storming the fine dining gates, not to mention mutual bile and suspicion between restaurateurs and diners. And yet, the annual prix fixe event keeps growing. In its inaugural year, only 35 restaurants participated. This year, there are 175 on the roster, making it tougher than ever to choose where to spend your hard-earned $25 or $35 or $45. So we narrowed the choices down, first to 61 Toronto Life–approved spots and now to just 11 of the best. Because we’re slaves to trends, we focused the list this year on the new and improved—places that recently opened, overhauled or changed chefs—and because we like a bargain as much as anyone, we looked for the spots that offer the very best bang for the buck, which is, after all, what Winterlicious is all about. Start making your reservations now (unless you don’t have an AmEx card, in which case you can wait until Thursday like the rest of us).
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Winterlicious 2012: our food editor whittles the monster list down to a manageable 11
Grant van Gameren and Guy Rawlings take over the reins at Lucien

Grant van Gameren at the Black Hoof, the Dundas West charcuterie bar he co-founded (Image: Renée Suen from the Torontolife.com Flickr pool)
Six weeks or so after leaving the Black Hoof behind him, Grant van Gameren has found a new home. Alongside Brockton General’s Guy Rawlings, the charcuterie pioneer has moved on to Lucien, replacing chef Scot Woods, who left recently. “During his tenure here, Scot proved to be an extremely talented and creative chef and we wish him the very best in his future endeavours,” owner Simon Bower told us. “But I have decided the restaurant is going in a new direction.”
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Nothing but the news
If any of you plan on being in Edmonton on June 12, come and join me for the first in a series of wine and food extravaganzas we’re calling Masters of Wine and Food. It’s a Bordeaux night and we’ll be opening some pretty stupendous wines, including 2004 Pavillon Blanc, 2003 Château Ducru Beaucaillou, 2002 Château Pichon Lalande Comtesse, 1995 Château Mouton Rothschild, 1990 Château Palmer, 1986 Château Beychevelle and 2003 Château Lafaurie Peyraguey, matched to wee tastings of delectable dishes from chef David O’Connor. A very good time will be had by all.
New York and breakfast
Just got back from a 72-hour, 9-restaurant eating visit to New York City—not a feeding frenzy, more an exercise in relentlessly sustained satiety. With me was Nathan Isberg, chef at Czehoski and Coca, who proved a thoroughly delightful travelling companion, partly because we seem to like pretty much the same kind of food but also because he generously bought me the latest copy of Seaways’ Ships in Scale magazine. He certainly knows how to butter up a critic. We encountered some unexpected disappointments but they were more than made up for by inspired cooking at Casa Mono, Del Posto, Blue Ribbon Brasserie (the Manhattan one, not the Brooklyn one) and The Spotted Pig. Did we eat a lot of duck eggs? I rather think so, but with duck eggs even two can seem like a lot. I must get my notes in order and generally sort through the mare’s nest of memories that remain from the trip, separate fact from fancy, and fashion the more accurate bits into a column for June’s Toronto Life.
Another Glass of Milk
Wednesday, December 20, 2006, dawned cold but bright, a winter sun in a clear blue sky. I walked up to Queen’s Park around 10:15 and stood about in front of the Provincial Legislature, watching dutiful schoolchildren line up around statues and a group of men in overcoats stamp and nod and blow into their hands. I guessed they might be there for the same reason I was—in support of Michael Schmidt and his freedom-of-choice position on the sale of raw milk—but I was too shy to approach them. They were well-dressed and might have been a counter-demonstration, suits hired by the Milk Marketing Board to disrupt the Gathering of the Righteous by standing around and looking supercilious…
The Good Fight
Toast’s comments to my November 27 posting resonate more loudly now that Michael Schmidt is on a hunger strike protesting the law that forbids the sale of raw milk.



We’re all for home-cooked meals and comfort food, but let’s face it: people go to restaurants to order stuff they can’t duplicate at home without the right skill set, equipment or the 
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