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The Goods

Shop Talk

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After a one-night showcase, Evan Biddell’s new capsule collection, Brethren, is almost sold out

Evan Biddell was all smiles on his return to Toronto to showcase Brethren by Evan Biddell (Image: Jenna Marie Wakani)

Last night at Yorkville’s UPC Boutique, Evan Biddell showcased his new capsule collection, Brethren, to waves of clients, media and fans who still seem very much addicted to Biddell. We loved a long, blowsy mesh tank top ($60), dresses with long skirts and sheer panels, and vintage-inspired, short-hemmed cocktail dresses ($120 and up). The outcome was a commercial success, which is a direction we saw at Biddell’s last Toronto show before he headed back to Vancouver; this time around, he has made his collection more affordable, relying less on custom orders and more on what women want.

It also seems Toronto womenincluding editor Briony Smith, blogger Anita Clarke, PR gal Gail McInnes, vintage boutique owner Sarah Magwood and model Sarah Miles— are clamouring for Biddell’s easy-to-wear pieces: it was overheard that UPC Boutique had already sold 50 per cent of Biddell’s inventory as of last night. See images of the Brethren collection after the jump.

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The Goods

From the Print Edition

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Project Runway phenom Evan Biddell injects attitude into fashion

Unceremonious fizzling out seems to be the standard fate for players in talent-competition reality shows. But Evan Biddell, the first-season champ of Project Runway Canada, is the exception: the profanity-spewing, moon-faced Saskatoon boy has turned his 15 minutes into a promising design career. Biddell’s custom-order fall collection features outlandishly proportioned, armour-like pieces in surprising fabrics, such as cork. Well studied in spectacle, he also plans to set his designs apart by installing his runway in a sweatshop—he’s bussing a crowd of 100 to the Seven Continents Factory on Wilson Avenue for his spring 2011 reveal. A little drama goes a long way.

Evan Biddell
Oct. 12. Seven Continents Factory.

(Photographs: Biddell and runway by Peter Balinski; Photo-illustration by Wes Duvall)

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The Hype

Prime Time

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War on fun: CRTC wants stations to stop showing Jersey Shore, The Office, Project Runway Canada

The CRTC has a problem with Jersey Shore—namely that it’s being aired on MTV Canada, which is supposed to stick to  original all-talk programming. “It would appear that several of your programs are not consistent with your nature of service, such as Jersey Shore, Cribs, Downtown Girls and Teen Mom,” the commission told the network in a letter on July 27. What? Snooki talks a ton! Turns out that’s exactly what CTVglobemedia VP Kevin Goldstein is arguing. He says the show “documents the private discussions of a group of young New Jersey residents as they navigate issues affecting their lives, including, but not limited to, dating, careers and parties.” Touché. But it’s not just MTV that the CRTC was after this summer.

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The Hype

Prime Time

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O Canada: the country gets its first porn channel

Let’s face it—the nation hasn’t been the same since Citytv stopped airing those Baby Blue movies on Friday nights. Fortunately, on October 28, the Vanessa channel will be launching in Quebec (it’ll be in French! Ooh la la!), making it the first porn channel in Canada. Its English counterpart is set to come on the airwaves late next year. After all, where else would one find porn? The Internet? Please.

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The Informer

Mediaocracy

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Rita Silvan, Elle Canada’s editor-in-chief, steps down

Rumours swirled on Twitter yesterday about Rita Silvan, editor-in-chief of Elle Canada, stepping down from her position, but no one at the magazine’s parent company would confirm or deny it. The gossip screeched to a halt a half-hour ago, when the e-mail below was sent out to Transcontinental staffers by the senior VP of consumer magazines, Francine Tremblay:

I regret to inform you of the departure of Rita Silvan, Editor in Chief, Elle Canada.  I wish to thank Rita for her contributions to the Elle brand over the past years and wish her luck in her future endeavors.

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The Goods

Toronto Fashion Week

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Lucian Matis takes it to the max with his fall collection

(Image: Jenna Marie Wakani)

Lucian Matis consistently puts out one of the most interesting collections of fashion week, but despite being a finalist on the first season of Project Runway Canada, his show on Thursday was quiet. There were a few notable guests—model Stacey McKenzie, who was a regular sight at the Allstream Centre, Ainsley Kerr and Monika Schnarre—but the crowd was nothing compared to the Pink Tartan and Joe Fresh Style shows the night before. The clothes were maximalist, with ballooning shoulders and hips, intricate beading, busy patterns and lace. The collection was a feast for the eyes; too bad more eyes weren’t there to see it.

View our slide show of the Lucian Matis show >>

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The Goods

Toronto Fashion Week

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More fur at fashion week from Sunny Fong

(Image: Jenna Marie Wakani)

It seems that fur has become no big deal in Canadian fashion this season, with Jeremy Laing, Greta Constantine and Izma all using it fearlessly. Yesterday, Sunny Fong (who’ll be forever referred to as the Project Runway Canada season two winner) made full use of the North American Fur Association by adorning outfits with fur lapels, collars, cuffs and hems for his Vawk line. Though Fong’s inspiration for his Collision Fungi collection, “the beauty of decay and Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow,” reminded us more of an OCAD artist statement, the designer took a big step from last season. We particularly liked the leather skirts and luxe coats trimmed with fur; the slim-fitting trousers with an extra flap of fabric to resemble riding pants; and leather skirts with padding at the hips. Both looks echo a spring trend of playing with hip proportions. Look for such fellow PRC alums as Evan Biddell and Lucian Matis later in the week.

See the full Vawk collection in the slide show below >>

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The Hype

To-Do List

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The Weekender: The ROM Prom, Opera to Go, Fashion Week, Earth Hour

Dinos and divas: the ROM Prom kicks off Toronto ball season (Image: Greyloch)

1. OPERA TO GO
This venue in the fermenting cellar of the old Gooderham and Worts Distillery has been beautifully restored, but it’s no Four Seasons Centre—and that’s the point. Showcasing the entire space, this program of short operas includes performances of The Laurels, Rosa and The Colony, as well as a screening of The Perfect Match, an operatic short film starring two sock puppets. March 24 to 26. $20–$40. Fermenting Cellar, 55 Mill St., Bldg. 7, 416-537-6066, ext. 243, tapestrynewopera.com.

2. SCREEN SPACE
Four new video exhibits examine space, both inside the gallery and in the film. The artists explore various styles and themes: newcomer (and YouTube sensation) Ryan Trecartin takes on consumer culture in his seven-part opus Any Ever; and veteran Peter Campus’s exhibition combines his own 1974 work, Anamnesis, with his new multi-channel video, Inflections. March 25 to May 24. $6. The Power Plant, Harbourfront Centre, 231 Queens Quay W., 416-973-4949, thepowerplant.org.

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The Goods

Shop Talk

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Just Opened: Evan Biddell’s Oz Studio Boutique

The interior of Oz retains a raw edge (Image: Glynnis Mapp)

From the outside, Oz looks like another one of Ossington’s trendy watering holes, but inside it’s clear that’s not the case. Instead, this new showroom-meets-art space will be home to live model photo shoots, new media installations, art shows and jam sessions.

“I wanted something different from just a flagship store. I wasn’t done being an artist,” says Evan Biddell, part owner and curator of the space, which opened on Tuesday. After being crowned the winner of Project Runway Canada’s first season, the Toronto-based designer has been prodded by fans for a store where they could find his clothes.

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The Goods

Toronto Fashion Week

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Evan Biddell’s top-secret fashion week plans

Biddell used cellphones as accessories last season (Image: Jenna Marie Wakani)

One week before LG fashion week, Evan Biddell, winning designer of the premiere season of Project Runway Canada, and his business partner, photographer Joseph Fuda, will open Oz Studio Boutique on Ossington. Biddell has commissioned well-known stylist Peter Papapetrou to help display his wares and invited media and friends to attend the March 16 opening.

But Biddell’s collection is currently absent from the fashion week lineup, and the designer has said he won’t comment on whether Oz has affected his involvement until the store opens its doors. We got in touch with the Fashion Design Council of Canada, which organizes fashion week, who told us that Biddell would be participating, but the show may not be a traditional one. Reality television alumni Lucian Matis, Jessica Biffi and Brandon Dwyer have all been slotted in for the weekly catwalk shows in the meantime, though PRC alums Sunny Fong and Jason Meyers, who both showed last season, are also absent.

Evan Biddell sends out a troupe of intergalactic warriors for spring collection [Toronto Life]

The Goods

Shop Talk

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Fashion types give Haiti the double kiss

A look from David Dixon's spring 2010 collection (Photo by Jenna Marie Wakani)

Despite a semi-controversial new study that found luxury consumers to be more selfish than frugal shoppers, fashion’s elite have opened their designer wallets to help relief efforts in Haiti. This Thursday in Toronto, Cosmo TV and swanky downtown venue The Roosevelt Room will host Haute Couture for Haiti, a fashion show fundraiser with David Dixon and a slew of Project Runway Canada runners up (Jessica Biffi, Brandon R. Dwyer and Lucian Matis) showing looks from their spring-summer 2010 collections, which will then be auctioned off for charity.

South of the border, fashion designer Donna Karan hosted A Night of Humanity fundraiser in the midst of prep for Mercedes-Benz fashion week, which starts tomorrow. In the U.K., Naomi Campbell and first lady Sarah Brown are hosting Hope for Haiti Now, a fashion show on February 18, a day before London Fashion Week, featuring dresses for auction by Alexander McQueen, Dolce and Gabbana and Vivienne Westwood. Lady Gaga is also in a giving mood: she will part with her Gary Card–designed skeleton corset and give it to the highest bidder, with proceeds going to Oxfam International.

Lady Gaga donates her exoskeleton for a good cause [Fashion Magazine]
• Canadian designers to team up for Haute Couture for Haiti’ benefit event [Canadian Press]
Naomi Campbell and Sarah Brown’s fashion show for Haiti [Fashionista.com]
Fashion Fundraiser for Haiti at Karan’s Urban Zen Center [WWD.com]

The Goods

Toronto Fashion Week

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Our favourite looks from Toronto fashion week

This past fashion week was a parade of Project Runway contestants, bustier dresses and sheer fabrics, and now that it’s over, we’ve come up with a slide show of our favourite pieces from the collections. Check them out below.

The Goods

Toronto Fashion Week

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Jessica Biffi shows legs, cleavage and ass for spring-summer

Photo by Jenna Marie Wakani

A look from Jessica Biffi's spring collection (Photo by Jenna Marie Wakani)

We have to fess up: we’ve known Jessica Biffi for several years now and rooted for her on the last season of Project Runway—so this is a completely biased report. Be warned.

With a neon spray-painted first number, black lights and hip hop blaring, Biffi presented a ghetto fabulous, club-kid friendly spring collection. We couldn’t imagine ourselves squeezing into gold bootie shorts, ultra-low bustiers (yes, those again) or hot pink sheer jumpsuits, but then again, we’re not really the type to party on Richmond Street, either. But for the legions willing to line-up behind velvet ropes on a Friday night, this is just the stuff for you. It’s also so refreshing to see a different kind of designer here at fashion week—someone clearly not interested in courting the Rosedale matron or Yorkville PYT.

See the full collection after the jump.

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The Goods

Toronto Fashion Week

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Evan Biddell sends out a troupe of intergalactic warriors for spring collection

Photo by Jenna Marie Wakani

A look from Evan Biddell's spring collection (Photo by Jenna Marie Wakani)

Fashion week’s title sponsor, LG, launched its new Chocolate phone yesterday evening, moments before Evan Biddell presented his spring-summer collection, a partnership with the company. “You’ll definitely want to stick around for the show,” an LG rep told a reporter covering the launch. “We have a very strong relationship with Biddell.”

The first model stomped down the runway in a flowing black parachute dress; around her neck was a large crystal-encrusted necklace. Its biggest jewel: an LG Chocolate phone. The mobiles adorned belts, clutches and bracelets. Major points for the LG marketing team.

But enough about the phone. Biddell chucked the traditional notions of spring garb. There were no pastels here. Instead, he presented an army of space warriors, their hair moulded into aerodynamic helmets. There was a silver wrestler’s costume and some extremely wide harem pants paired with more wearable pieces—in particular, the comfy dress-like jersey jumpsuits (check out the photo to see what we mean). This is one militia with a killer uniform.

See all the looks from the collection after the jump.

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The Goods

Toronto Fashion Week

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Jason Meyers’ show much better than Project Runway effort

Photo by Jenna Marie Wakani

A look from Jason Meyers' collection (Photo by Jenna Marie Wakani)

No question, Jason Meyers presented a much tighter collection than the one shown last season as his Project Runway debut, which could kindly be described as embarrassing. Last night, however, Meyers showed more promise, straddling an odd line between Club Monaco basics (a collared white shirt dress embodied this look in particular) and party-girl staples, like mini-dresses and large ruffles. We liked his slim-cut pants, especially a pair that sat quite high on the waist. The collection was in no way flawless: the garish orange-purple-lime-splattered silk could have been left out, and finishing details were an issue—a rear slit in a skirt gaped in an unseemly way, and one strapless number slipped down to reveal the model’s nipple.

See all the looks from the collection below.

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