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The Hype

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The Argument: Feist’s singing is her not-so-secret weapon, and worthy of obsessing over

FeistJust after Feist’s 2007 album The Reminder came out, I found myself driving to a weekend house party in Prince Edward County, accompanied by a friend with a sense of direction as unreliable as my own. No surprise: we got desperately lost. My friend turned the map around and around under the light like she’d never used one before.

“Let’s see what the next crossing is,” I said, irritation abundant in my voice.

As we drove on, the stereo started playing “The Limit to Your Love.” She turned it up. After a dramatic piano set-up, Feist began to sing: “There’s a limit to your love, like a waterfall in slow motion…” The eyes of some cows lit up as we rounded a curve. There were umpteen stars above us. And just like that, we forgot we were lost. Feist was singing to us—not about a minor trauma like arriving late for dinner, but about a real one: loving someone more, far more, than he or she loves you. It was sweet and clear and sad, and whenever I hear her sing it, I am back there in that car with my good friend.

What is it about her? Feist possesses an ethereal, intimate, listen-to-me voice. So do many of her indie rock colleagues. Unlike them, though, she hits the notes, never embroidering around them, never swooping into them. Her perfect pitch has helped her cross over from alt songstress to bona fide star.

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The Dish

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David Lawrason picks nine great, affordable pinot noirs from around the world

(Illustration: Jack Dylan)

Pinot noir is my desert island wine. It’s light and refreshing, and it pairs with just about any food. I adore it. For centuries, Burgundy, with its cool climate and limestone-rich soils, was one of the few places on the planet that could coax great wine from the famously precious, thin-skinned grape. As a result, pinot prices were inflated—one of the world’s most expensive reds is Burgundy’s Domaine Romanee-Conti pinot, which sells for $11,000. In the 1970s, under the disapproving gaze of the French, winemakers started planting pinot in Oregon, New Zealand, California and Ontario. The resulting wines were often exciting, though still expensive. Then 2004’s sleeper hit Sideways chronicled a pinot-swilling novelist’s road trip through California wine country and propelled the wine into the limelight. The heartbreak grape, as it’s known to vintners due to its finnicky nature, is now grown all over the globe and is much more affordable. While some may lament the popularization of the once-elite grape, I’m thrilled it’s more widely available. Here, nine bottles under $25 from Ontario, Australia and everywhere in between.

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The Dish

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David Lawrason rounds up some of the best Ontario wines from off the beaten track

New Ontario vintners are planting vines in unlikely places and making wine that will warm your indie-loving locavore heart.

(Illustration: Jack Dylan)

In the last five or so years, vineyards have popped up off the beaten track of Ontario’s wine circuit—in Norfolk County (Port Dover), Grey County (Collingwood) and the south of Prince Edward County (Milford). To adapt to the idiosyncrasies of their untested terroirs, trail­blazing winemakers are trying out new types of grapes and growing techniques. For example, at the Coffin Ridge winery near Owen Sound, they’re planting hybrid vines, like Marquette and Frontenac, that are designed to survive -34°C winters. To accommodate a growing season that’s two weeks shorter than that of much of the rest of Ontario, the Georgian Hills winery near Colling­wood plants early-ripening gamay. And at Burning Kiln, on an old tobacco farm near Port Dover, they’re drying ripe grapes in tobacco kilns to produce the big, flavour-rich reds that generally come from warmer climates. After a few years of experimentation, these small operations are now turning out intriguing, often very good wines, but because the LCBO doesn’t carry small-batch bottlings, you have to order them online or make the pilgrimage to the wineries. Here, nine bottles worth the extra effort.

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The Informer

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Exodus to the burbs: why diehard downtowners are giving up on the city

The reasons to abandon the overcrowded, overpriced, not-so-livable city are beginning to outnumber the reasons to stay. More and more of us are tempted by the 905 and beyond. Screw Jane Jacobs. We’re outta here

The New Suburbanites

Brian Porter and Carrie Low thought they’d hatched the perfect plan to avoid the eight-lane gridlock they faced every week on their drive to the family cottage in the Kawarthas. Porter, a soft-spoken 41-year-old Toronto firefighter, would arrange his work schedule to be home on Friday. He’d pack the car at noon and pick up his daughters, Lily and Amelia, from daycare shortly after lunch. Then, rather than head from their home in the Beach to pick up Low downtown, he’d drive to a strategic pit stop in Oshawa. Low, a slim 41-year-old redhead, works as a lawyer with RBC in the financial district, her days and nights packed, respectively, with meetings and paperwork. Her role in the escape plan was to get off work early and catch the GO train to Oshawa Station. Often, she’d end up working a pressure-packed day until 5 p.m. anyway, leaving Porter and the girls waiting at the station for hours. In the end they never gained that much time—it could still be a challenge to get to the cottage before nightfall. But at least they’d avoided the worst hours on the DVP and the 401.

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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New summer food truck event fuels hopes for a Toronto street food revolution

Niagara’s El Gastrónomo Vagabundo will be one of the trucks on site at the July 2 event (Image: Suresh Doss)

Steeltown might have beaten us to the food truck race, but three special events starting this summer are laying the groundwork for a decent street food culture in Toronto. Starting this July, Food Truck Eats will host food trucks and street food stalls featuring some top Toronto chefs in a bid to free up chefs from the substantial legal and health concerns associated with street-side operations. We caught up with Suresh Doss, the event’s organizer and the publisher of Spotlight Toronto, for the details.

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Two foodie fundraisers set to benefit the Toronto Wildlife Centre this month

From last year’s Spring for Wildlife event, host Kevin Brauch (left) with Didier Leroy (right) and the Valrhona chocolate sculpture created by chocolatier Sylvain Leroy (centre) (Image: Robert Chapman)

There’s a reason food and fundraisers go hand in hand: what better way to encourage patrons and sponsors to empty their wallets for a good cause than to fill their bellies with delicious food? (See: this weekend’s Toronto Taste.) This month, the Toronto Wildlife Centre—the only organization in the GTA that rescues and provides treatment for wildlife in need—will be on the receiving end of two such events.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Mavrik Wine Bar, a laid-back Queen West hangout run by two escapees from the corporate world

Mavrik Wine Bar’s cozy room with an open kitchen in the back (Image: Davida Aronovitch)

Mavrik Wine Bar, a cozy new place replacing the Korean spot San, quietly opened a couple weeks ago one door east of Queen West staple Czehoski. Following the lead of DeKefir, Prairie Girl Bakery and these guys, co-owners Joanne Park and Elizabeth Choi have done what so many cubicle-slaves only dream of. The childhood pals left high-paid corporate jobs to open their ideal hangout spot: a homey wine bar—hold the pretension. “We left our cares behind,” says Elizabeth, a former Wall Street trader whose love of wine was inspired by hip New York hubs like Terroir and Blue Ribbon.

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The Dish

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The sipper club: meet the city’s competitive cabal of top sommeliers

Will Predhomme belongs to a competitive cabal of top sommeliers who sniff, sip and spit their way through hundreds of bottles a week. They do this to help you decide what to drink with your dinner, while making you think it was your idea all along

One hundred and fifty-one people have reservations at Canoe tonight. Among these are many Bay Streeters, a couple celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary, dozens of people on dates, including the bar manager from Crush, and a young woman who plans to propose to her boyfriend over dinner. The two private dining rooms are fully booked.

Canoe, part of the ever-expanding Oliver and Bonacini empire, is routinely considered one of the finest restaurants in the city. Last summer, in a rigorous competition held by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, known as CAPS, Canoe’s head sommelier, Will Predhomme, was proclaimed Ontario’s best. Predhomme has devoted a third of his life—he’s 29—to wine scholarship. He now knows more about wine than almost anyone in Toronto.

Just after 5 p.m., the bar area begins to fill up with commuters sipping cocktails as they wait for the traffic on the clogged Gardiner, 54 floors below, to dissipate. One of the restaurant’s first guests, a retired trial lawyer, arrives. As a young female host escorts him to his large corner table, he puts an arm around her shoulder. “I don’t like to pay bills,” he says. “I want a fucking account. Last time I was here, I offered those ladies”—referring to the hosts who greeted him at his last visit—“$300 and told them to set up an account for me. And I still don’t have one.” He and his three dining companions, Canoe regulars, have brought in several bottles of their own wine, including a cabernet franc from the ex-lawyer’s private vineyard in Tuscany. When Predhomme arrives at the table to discuss the wine, the ex-lawyer, captivatingly bratty in a way that only the rich and sort-of-powerful can be, repeats his complaint. “Look, I spend about $50,000 a year at Bymark, and I’d do the same here if I had a fucking account.” Predhomme is unmoved, but gracious. “If you give me your contact information,” he says, “I’ll make sure that it gets to the right people.”

“You’ll get me an account?”

“I’ll look into it.”

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The Hype

To-Do List

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The Weekender: Black Lips, Shakespeare in puppet form and six other events on our to-do list

1. IN PINOT VERITAS: LUNCHEON WITH NORMAN HARDIE
There aren’t many Ontario wines that garner rave reviews around the world, but vintner Norman Hardie makes several Pinot Noirs that do at his eponymous winery in Prince Edward County. The celebrated winemaker is providing some excellent examples of those Pinots at this exclusive luncheon, which also features a special menu from Nota Bene chef David Lee. April 15. $85. Nota Bene, 180 Queen St. W., 416-977-6400, notabenerestaurant.com.

2. CHARLIE SHEEN: MY VIOLENT TORPEDO OF TRUTH/DEFEAT IS NOT AN OPTION
Tiger blood, winning, benders—Martin’s boy isn’t so great with that whole law-abiding thing, but he is unusually skilled at redefining previously boring words. We’re not sure if Chuck’s Toronto showing will be good, as in Chicago, or walkout-inducing, as in Detroit, but either way, we know we’ll be there. April 14 and 15. $79.50–$109.50. Massey Hall, 178 Victoria St., 416-872-4255, www.masseyhall.com.

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The Informer

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The perils of burying your beloved pet in the backyard

A few years ago, on an unseasonably mild January day, I took “the girls” out for their afternoon walk. The girls are my two dogs—16-year-old Harry, a Lab/collie cross named after my mother, Elizabeth Harriet; and 11-year-old Roger, a collie/shepherd. The great thing about my Summerhill apartment is that it overlooks a park, which means I can be in green space in a matter of seconds—important if you have an older dog.

We had just stepped outside when Harry suddenly collapsed by the front walk. Due to the muscle atrophy in her hindquarters, she often took her time getting up, so I didn’t think much of it when she stayed put while Roger and I did our usual circuit around the park. But when we returned and she still hadn’t moved, I knew something was wrong. I carried her up to the apartment, put her on my bed and let her sleep. Soon her eyes became glazed and her jaw clenched, and I realized the last trumpet was sounding.

I had always known what I would do when she died. I have a farm—a restored Loyalist homestead called Cressy House—near Waupoos in Prince Edward County, where I spend big chunks of the year. When Harry’s brother Henry was hit by a car 10 years ago, I buried him in my orchard between the rows of apricot trees. Harry, whom I had adopted as a six-week-old pup, took over the position of top dog in the family. My plan was to bury her next to Henry.

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The Dish

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Reinvention tour: Ontario vintners are showing off their chardonnays and changing minds about the infamous ’80s grape

(Illustration: Jack Dylan)

The consumer revolt against chardonnay, known as the ABC (anything but chardonnay) movement, hasn’t stopped Ontario winemakers from producing excellent chardonnays. The province’s cool climate and limestone-rich soils provide similar conditions to those in Burgundy, France—the region that put chardonnay on the map with such wines as chablis, pouilly-fuissé and meursault. As the Ontario industry and its vines mature, home-grown chardonnays are becoming truly impressive, especially the more expensive varieties that are fermented and aged in French oak. To get the word out, Ontario vintners are sending their best bottlings (as selected in a blind tasting by Ontario wine critics) abroad to wine fairs. At the first event in London last year, pundits were pleasantly surprised to discover such high-quality chardonnays from a province known mostly for icewine. The enthusiastic response prompted Ontario wineries to repeat the performance this month for Manhattan’s wine critics. Niagara will also become an international chardonnay hub this July, when it hosts a multi-winery festival in honour of the cool-climate grape. To prime your palates, we’ve selected the region’s most seductive bottles.

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The Dish

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All that sparkles: nine outstanding bottles of bubbly without the elitism

(Illustration: Jack Dylan)

French champagne is still the standard-bearer for the world’s sparkling wines. But New World winemakers are tinkering with its conventions and challenging its supremacy, making bubbly more fun and diverse—for celebrating everyday life, not just its highlights. Understanding sparkling wine means wrapping your head around confusing nomenclature: in champagne terms, the driest styles are called brut, but the sweeter ones are “extra-dry.” More extra-dry wine is being made whether labelled thus or not, reflecting the fact that most of humanity actually prefers sweetish wine. Of late, in the New World, we’re seeing grapes other than the champagne triumvirate of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier—such varietals as sauvignon blanc, riesling and even shiraz. The final kick in the shins to champagne is that quality has improved substantially throughout the sparkling-wine spectrum—from Italian prosecco to Spanish cava, from French cremants to the global legions of chardonnay-pinot champagne emulators. Whatever the style, these sparklers are all cheaper than champagne, sometimes astonishingly so considering their fine quality.

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Jamie Kennedy dishes on his plans for 2011 and beyond

Jamie Kennedy sports a new ’do at his flagship Gilead Bistro (Image: Davida Aronovitch)

Recently, rumours were brewing that chef Jamie Kennedy was looking to buy Prince Edward County’s culinary jewel, Harvest. While Kennedy confirms that he was approached by Harvest’s seller, he told us, “Considering everything that’s going on in my life, taking on something like Harvest is out of the question at this point.” Still, the rumour gave us an excuse to sit down with our locavore-in-chief to talk about what’s on his plate in 2011.

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The Dish

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Tiny bubbles: top picks from Prince Edward County’s first sparkling wines

Prince Edward County’s first sparklers are incredible: you’d swear you were drinking champagne

(Image: Jack Dylan)

The first three sparkling wines to come out of Prince Edward County are taut, tender and dance across the palate: they taste more like champagne than any non-French bubbly I’ve ever tasted. The secret is in the dirt. The sunny farming region south of Belleville has almost as high a concentration of limestone in its soil as France’s Champagne district. Limestone is fissured and spongy, which allows vine roots to penetrate deep into the bedrock, and the wine it yields is full of refreshing minerality. The similarities in terroir and climate were so striking that two expat Torontonians, Jonas Newman, a former maître d’ at Scara­mouche, and his partner, Vicki Samaras, have opened Hinterland winery, the County’s first dedicated exclusively to bubbly. It’s one of 14 launches in the past year, bringing the total number of wineries to 31. The region once considered laughably marginal is full of undercapitalized but pioneering vintners. Many are eking out fewer than 1,000 cases from small acreages, making their wines scarce (most are unavailable at the LCBO) and expensive. But low yields create better quality wines. Here are some examples of PEC’s finest to seek out on your next, or first, trip.

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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Buddha Dog gets put down

Auf Wiedersehen, weird weiners: Roncey loses its Dog (Image: Joey DeVilla)

Amidst all the G20 brouhaha, it was easy to forget that one Roncesvalles’s more creative fooderies, Buddha Dog, is calling it quits after three years. Fans of the tiny hot dog shop, which was recommended in our Roncesvalles Guide, can still get their fill at the Evergreen Brick Works farmers’ market on Saturdays or up at the Picton location. A post from the owners on their Web site says that they’re focusing on “building more rural locations and developing our Buddha Foodha at Home line of products.” We’re not sure what to make of the rural locations part, but selling bottles of their Indian butter and red pepper jelly sounds like a good business plan to us.

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