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The comprehensive index of every blog post, magazine story and restaurant review that appears on Torontolife.com
(Image: Gizelle Lau)
Back in November 2010, we told you that the owners of the Lakeview Restaurant were planning on going retail in early December with a new shop next door to the hipster late night and brunch staple. As with most new shops and restaurants on the Ossington strip, the opening was delayed, this time for five months. Now, we’re happy to report that the Lakeview Storehouse finally opened last week on May 2.
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(Image: Catherine Gerson)
With a name nodding to a notorious old-world culinary delicacy, Ortolan quietly opened its doors two weeks ago in the space formerly occupied by Kathy’s Kitchen in Bloordale Village. Taking a little bit of Ossington with them, chef-owners Damon Clements (Delux) and Daniel Usher (Pizzeria Libretto) have pooled their respective experiences in French and Italian cuisines to branch out on their own on the quickly changing strip between Dufferin and Lansdowne.
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This year’s crop of restaurants, from a million-dollar dining room to a brazen burger joint, pushed Toronto’s culinary culture in creative, comforting and blessedly cheap directions. Here, the 10 new spots that are redefining the way we eat, drink and play in the city
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Few subjects are as divisive among Toronto diners and industry people as the merits of Summer- and Winterlicious. While the biannual culinary event may help restaurants fill empty tables during an otherwise slow season, as we’ve explored before, participation in the city-run festival can have its limitations (dining rooms filled with stingy tippers, owners bound by the city’s rules). As in previous years, a number of restaurants have decided to strike out on their own with prix fixe specials.
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This is the most exciting news we’ve heard all week: Max Rimaldi, Daniel Clark and chef Rocco Agostino, the partners behind Pizzeria Libretto, are planning to open a second location of their wildly successful pizza joint on the Danforth. Less than a year after Enoteca Sociale, their second venture, opened to raves, the trio is close to finalizing a lease on an east-end space. We caught up with Agostino to find out the details on the new location, set to open as early as the end of this summer.
Now bargain-hunting foodies have something to look forward to that doesn’t end in -licious. Starting September 11, the Cheese Boutique is hosting an eight-week tasting series that will feature a different top Toronto chef each Saturday afternoon. From noon to 4 p.m., there will be complimentary sample dishes made by the featured chef using at least one of Cheese Boutique’s products. The chef lineup includes Café du Lac‘s Bernadette Calpito, the Black Hoof‘s Grant Van Gameren, Pizzeria Libretto‘s Rocco Agostino and O&B Café Grill‘s Markus Bestig. See the event’s Facebook page for complete details.
Cheese Boutique, 45 Ripley Ave. (at South Kingsway), 416-762-6292, cheeseboutique.com.
(Image: Benson Kua)
The leaves may be changing and drunken freshmen may be stumbling around the streets again, but summer isn’t officially over until September 22. Instead of whinging about the inevitable end of the warm weather, make full use of the remaining lazy, hazy days with our list of 16 things to watch, eat, do, see and buy before it’s time to break out the scarves and jackets.
1. Go to Sugar Beach. The Claude Cormier–designed park is the newest addition to Toronto’s ongoing waterfront rejuvenation project, with quartz-speckled sand, pink umbrellas and grassy knolls. The beach is nestled between the slick Corus Entertainment building and the Redpath Sugar Factory, and the Muskoka chairs are a good vantage point from which to contemplate Toronto’s past and present or work on a late-summer tan. Jarvis slip, lower Jarvis St. and Queens Quay E.
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In the evening, diners will wait for hours to eat at this Ossington pizza shop. At lunch, however, the food is just as spectacular but comes cheaper and faster
The place: Though the narrow front space opens into a surprisingly large wood-clad interior, lineups to (and out) the door are guaranteed most evenings. At lunch, however, Toronto’s oft-hyped “only certified Vera Pizza Napoletana” comes without the sound and fury.
The crowd: Full but not overflowing, Libretto is populated by young foodies on midday dates, family birthdays and wine-and-dining Bay Streeters hoping their clients think food acumen implies business savvy.
The deal: The daily prix fixe lunch ($15) is composed of three courses. On this weekday afternoon, options include beet caprese, folded pizza (“piadora”) and a vanilla affogato. We round the meal off with the day’s blood orange Campari aperitif.
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Water buffalo have picky milking needs (Photo by Cathy, Sam, Max and Mai)
Two years ago, Martin Littkemann and Lori Smith were tired of milking cows, so the couple purchased 40 young water buffalo for their farm north of Trenton. Since then, the herd has grown to over 100, and they’ve launched Ontario Water Buffalo Co. The milk is sold to Vaughan’s Quality Cheese, where it’s turned into small-batch cheese and sold at Pusateri’s, Whole Foods and select Loblaws and Longo’s. It’s also been served at Pizzeria Libretto, Terroni and Buca.
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Trend count: Fresh and local? Check. Communal table? Check. Ossington Avenue? Check. Designer lighting? Check (All photos by Karon Liu)
Paul Boehmer’s soon-to-open restaurant is like the cherry on top of the Ossington sundae. The eponymous eatery was one of the last to obtain a restaurant and bar permit before the city imposed a one-year moratorium on new establishments last May. “People around the neighbourhood thought that I was opening a nightclub, but since I told them it wasn’t the case, I haven’t received any complaints,” says the former Stadtländer apprentice, who has also cooked at Rosewater Supper Club, Six Steps and Scaramouche. He expects Boehmer to open in less than a month—about six months later than originally planned.
If the hour-long lineups at Libretto are any indication, Toronto’s thin-crust lust has never been more fierce. Five slices for pizza lovers with artisanal appetites.
The duck confit pizza from Pizzeria Libretto (Photo by Daniel Shipp)
That's my queue: customers wait for hours to taste the fare at Guu (Photo by snowpea&bokchoi)
Capitalizing on one of the more frustrating dining trends, the Globe writes about the no-reservations policies at such restaurants as Guu, Black Hoof and Pizzeria Libretto and how they are resulting in long lineups, rushed dining experiences, annoyed customers and, in some cases, mayhem. TasteTO’s Sheryl Kirby opines that the chaos is a side effect of Toronto’s unsophisticated nature: diners care more about partaking in the latest trend than indulging in quality dining. The sight of teeming masses lined up in sub-zero temperatures may reek of herd mentality, but Michael Sangregorio, the owner of Local Kitchen, says that it’s all part of the fun. “I think people like lineups… People want to eat in busy restaurants.” He also suggests that restaurants (like his) often merit the attention and that reservations are unsuited to the operations of a small restaurant.
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Rocco Agostino closes Silver Spoon, opens Enoteca Sociale (Photo courtesy of Stratford Chefs School)
The Roncesvalles institution Silver Spoon is closing in the next two weeks, but chef and owner Rocco Agostino says the never-ending construction on the neighbourhood’s main drag isn’t the reason why he’s packing up. “It’s bittersweet. I’m not going to lie that I didn’t get emotional,” says Agostino, who also heads the kitchen at Pizzeria Libretto. “But it’s not necessarily horrible. Ten years is a good run. I want to go back to my roots, which are in Italian food.”
Even though he says the construction has led to a decline in business, he says he’s been thinking about other ventures for a while now. Aside from Libretto, he’s focusing on his next restaurant, Enoteca Sociale, which will feature house-made pastas and cheese. He says it’ll be on Dundas, about four blocks west of Ossington, and hopes to be open by spring.
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Ratted out: Cora Pizza reopens after health inspectors discovered rats on the premises (Photo by The Pizza Review)
• U of T students, rejoice: Cora Pizza reopened its doors last week. The restaurant, a long-standing refuge of drunken university students, was closed due to unsanitary conditions (including, apparently, several dead rats and rat feces on the premises). With a history like this, we’re sure the customers will come flocking back. [CBC]
• Joanne Kates counts down Toronto’s top new restaurants of 2009, with fairly predictable results. Among her favourites are Buca, Black Hoof, the revamped Splendido, Osteria Ciceri e Tria and Mildred’s Temple Kitchen. The one wild card is Ba Shu Ren Jia, a Szechuan spot with a four-figure Steeles Avenue address. [Globe and Mail] Read the rest of this entry »
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The Toronto food scene gets a ton of media coverage, but until recently there has been a dearth of books covering the city’s ever-expanding dining experiences. One of the latest contributions to the genre, The Edible City: Toronto’s Food From Farm to Fork, launches this Sunday at the Gladstone Hotel as part of This Is Not a Reading Series. The book details Toronto’s food past, present and future in cutesy chapters titled Antipasto, Primo, Secondo, Contorno and Dolce.
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