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Toronto Life - The Wire

The comprehensive index of every blog post, magazine story and restaurant review that appears on Torontolife.com

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Fisherman’s Friends: Chris Nuttall-Smith reviews Maléna and The Atlantic

The season’s most anticipated openings are two seafood-centric spots

Maléna at Av and Dav (Image: Ryan Szulc)

Toronto is a raw bar town. We’re over-served by excellent oyster houses, and we probably consume more sushi per capita than any city east of Vancouver. But cooked fish is a problem here; we’ve never had a standout seafood spot. This spring, Nathan Isberg, of Czehoski and Coca fame, opened what early adopters described as a nose-to-tail disciple’s take on the life aquatic on Dundas West. And in Yorkville, a neighbourhood that’s desperate for a few more decent places to eat, front-of-house kings David Minicucci and Sam Kalogiros launched Maléna, a flashy fish spot. It looked like Toronto might finally turn into a seafood town.

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The Goods

From the Print Edition

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Best of the City 2010: tailors, exterminators and 13 other top helpers

Left: top tailor Giovanni of Italy; Right: Jump Start Dog Training (Images: Jay Shuster)

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Best of the City 2010: 14 picks for the top food in Toronto

Leaf fan: Matchbox Gardens grows rare and wonderful lettuces (Image: Jay Shuster)

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Prime Steakhouse unveils its new chef’s new menu

Prime, that famed steakhouse at the Windsor Arms Hotel, has become a revolving door for chefs, of late. After executive Stephen Ricci left earlier this year, alumnus J.P. Challet (he helmed the kitchen during Prime’s 1999 relaunch) returned to liven up the joint. Just five months into his tenure, Challet abruptly announced his resignation. “I don’t believe in the steak house. I don’t believe in fine dining anymore,” he told us in June. The restaurant has managed to pick up the pieces with a new head chef—Richard Andino of Flowand brand new menus. There are also plans for an all-new restaurant at the hotel.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Hub, Wallace-Emerson’s new indie coffee shop

Toronto’s wealth of new indie cafés has been a boon to community life, but mostly for neighbourhoods south of Bloor. That’s not the case with Hub, which opened last weekend on a residential stretch of Shaw Street near Dupont. The spot has already gained a following from the residents of Dovercourt-Wallace-Emerson-Junction who are thankful they no longer have to hop on their bikes to find a quick lunch, a latte or a cool escape from un-air-conditioned townhouses. At midday on a Wednesday, the place is bustling with moms with strollers and dads giving their daughters piggyback rides.

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The Goods

The Find

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New generation of leggings: bicycle shorts are back

Just when much of the general population started to get comfortable with leggings (as long as they were worn with a long top, of course), envelope-pushing designers are making the tight-fitting togs edgy again by bringing the hemline up…way up. Get reacquainted with bicycle shorts—the layering staple of the grunge era—because come next summer, we’ll be seeing them all over the city. For 2010, DKNY did them in neon pink (worn under shorter shorts) and Louis Vuitton had a brocade version. Alexander Wang, Michael Kors and Miu Miu have also pushed the pedal. And, thanks to designer Thom Browne’s spring 2011 Gamme Bleu collection for Moncler, we might see the slim shorts on men, as well.

Toronto daredevils can pick up a pair from Covet, a Canadian line known for using organic and sustainable fabrics, now on sale for $25 at Lavish and Squalor. The cotton and lace confection also comes in grey, blue, beige and black.

Lavish and Squalor, 253 Queen St. W., 416-599-4779, lavishandsqualor.com.

The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Around the Corner, the west end’s new gluten-free café and breakfast spot

Breakfast is served at Around the Corner (Image: Signe Langford)

New Toronto—that little pocket of post-war bungalows at Islington and Lakeshore—is teetering on the brink of gentrification. Just off the tired, time-worn main strip, new residents are tearing down the dinky houses to build dream homes by the water. Stepping in to feed these folks is Mark Ali, the enterprising foodie-locavore who has owned and operated The Village Butcher for the past three years. At his new café, Around the Corner, Ali shifts his devotion to all things fresh and local to the world of gluten-free eating.

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The Dish

DIY Gourmet

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Custom-made chocolate bars come to Canada

The German chocolate company Chocri caught our eye this week with an announcement that its made-to-order chocolate bars are now being shipped to Canada. Local chocoholics can now design their own confections using Chocri’s Web site createmychocolate.com, which allows users to choose from four types of base—white, milk, dark and mixed milk and white—and over 100 toppings of fruit, nuts, spices, gold flakes and grains. We’ve never tasted the products, but were intrigued since the European company uses only organic, ethically-produced chocolate from Belgium. Seems like a great way to develop either an extremely complicated chocolate fix or a gross-out monstrosity. Current examples on the site include:

“________’s Specialty PMS Bar” (Milk Chocolate with Blueberries, Sour Cherries, Cornflakes and Toasted Hazelnuts)

Nuts and Jolts (Milk and White Chocolate with Coffee, Macadamia Nuts, Bourbon Vanilla, Cocoa Nibs and Roasted Cashews)

The Hype

From the Print Edition

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Hope for the Cottageless: an insider’s guide to vacationing in cottage country

So you didn’t listen when everyone told you to book a rental back in January, and you haven’t yet managed to finagle an invite from cottage-owning friends. We offer hope: an insider’s guide to vacationing in cottage country—where to stay, what not to miss, and how to find urban luxuries in the boonies


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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Michael Stadtländer and Jamie Kennedy walk away with new Governor General’s Cuisine Awards

Honourees Jamie Kennedy, Michael Stadtländer (Images: Edlynne, farmerchefconference)

The Governor General’s Awards, heretofore known for honouring the best in Canadian academics and arts, have added a new category to their ranks: cuisine. Yesterday, in an award ceremony at Rideau Hall, celebrity chefs Jamie Kennedy and Michael Stadtländer received a joint distinction for their role as culinary leaders by outgoing GG Michäelle Jean and her husband, Jean-Daniel Lafond (the new awards were apparently his idea).

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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We ask the top chefs at Toronto Taste what’s in store at George, Splendido, Scaramouche and the rest of the city’s hot restaurants

This past Sunday marked the 20th anniversary of Toronto Taste, the annual event that unites Toronto’s food lovers and food makers for a day of innovative cooking, tasking and fundraising for Second Harvest. 60 of Toronto’s top chefs—including Jason Bangerter, Donna Dooher, Chris McDonald, Mark McEwan, Anthony Walsh and Anne Yarymowich—doled out top-notch cuisine to an estimated 1,600 guests at the ROM. We caught up with the chefs and asked them what’s in store for them and their restaurants this summer.

The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: Daniel et Daniel

Many Torontonians have sampled this caterer’s delights at parties, but boxed meals from its small lunch counter satisfy, too

Apricot-glazed apple tart from Daniel et Daniel

The place: One of the city’s most popular catering kitchens is also an excellent lunch stop for Cabbagetowners. The tiny takeout counter has all the gourmet goodies for a picnic at nearby Allen Gardens.

The crowd: Regulars with running tabs, executive assistants picking up office lunches and construction workers filling up on the hearty spanakopita.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Best eight farmers’ markets

Nearly every downtown ’hood has a farmers’ market now, and although the best one is almost always the one closest to you, these markets are worth the trek.

bestmarkets

Ontario tomatoes (Photo by Daniel Shipp)

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Urban Decoder

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Is it appropriate to dicker over prices at the farmers’ market?

(Image: Devin Jeffrey)

Growing small quantities of organic produce is an expensive endeavour. When you’re forking over $8 for a basket of raspberries, you’re paying little more than the costs of production and labour, so our best advice is to suck it up or take your shopping cart to the fluorescent-lit aisles of the supermarket, where imported, pesticidal produce is available at half the price. That said, there are circum­stances in which market merchants are willing to make a deal. Anyone buying in larger quantities is likely to get a freebie, and loyal regulars will often find an extra turnip or two in their bag. For your best chance at bargain bounty, wait until the end of the day, when the spinach is starting to look a little limp. Just be warned: you’re risking the stink eye from the guy in overalls and the clan of ethical eaters around you.

• Question from Dana Greenfield, Riverdale

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The Informer

The New Normal

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This shit just got real: Toronto Zoo looking to make crappy deal that everyone is happy about

Hippos at play at the Toronto Zoo (Image: derekp)

As the third-largest public zoo in the world, the Toronto Zoo is probably also the third-largest source of publicly funded animal feces (Parliament Hill notwithstanding). Thankfully, plans are underway to do something useful with all that fecal matter.

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