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The Dish

Locavoracious

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Nine members of Toronto’s backyard-chicken underground on the special bond between man and bird

On November 30, councillors Joe Mihevc and Mary-Margaret McMahon took on the considerable challenge of trying to overturn nearly three decades of city hall opposition to backyard hens. They didn’t quite succeed. (Their motion to study the issue was referred to the municipal licensing and standards committee for consideration in February.) With his trademark zeal for kindergarten humour, Councillor Giorgio Mammoliti opined, “Now we’re going to have thousands of chickens crossing the road and we’re going to have neighbours fighting against neighbours because they don’t want to hit the chickens.” But what Mammoliti and his ilk don’t understand is that urban hen keeping didn’t really go away when it was outlawed in 1983. It just went underground—into garages, sheds and secluded corners of backyards. The hopes of these renegade urban hen keepers are now running high, riding Toronto’s ever-growing wave of locavorism. Here, nine of those rebels, who break the law every day, talk about that other love that dare not speak its name: that between man and hen.

First up, Jill and Sunshine »

The Informer

From the Print Edition

24 Comments

Jan Wong: how the rise of horticultural training at Toronto schools is bad for students

While we’re busy teaching our kids to tend school gardens, they’re failing provincial tests in reading, writing and math. The folly of the new enviro-propaganda

The Horticultural Revolution

(Illustration: Tavis Coburn)

This fall, hundreds of Toronto students are harvesting beets and zucchini from their school gardens. I say: nice photo op, bad idea. The argument for school gardens assumes that by grubbing in the dirt, kids will learn to love eating vegetables. They won’t think chickens hatch into this world as deep-fried nuggets. And they’ll develop a respect for nature.

Here’s the counter-argument: our students shouldn’t be out scrabbling in the hot sun when one in five can’t pass the Grade 10 literacy test administered by the provincially funded Education Quality and Accountability Office. And while Canadian students score high internationally in reading, mathematics and the sciences, Statistics Canada says our relative ranking is declining due to improved performance by other countries. In this era of global competition, we can’t afford to let other nations nip at our heels.

Half of Toronto’s population was born outside Canada, and it’s a safe bet many of them came here for a better life, including a good education for their offspring. A lot of immigrants originate from agrarian regions of countries such as India, Pakistan, China and the Philippines. The last thing these newcomers need is a morality crusade about carrots. Yet more than 200 of Toronto’s nearly 600 public schools now have gardens, and an army of well-meaning parents, volunteers, activists and advocacy organizations with a social agenda is successfully lobbying for more.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

1 Comment

Best of the City 2011: The city’s most interesting dishes, places to eat them and, yes, hot sauce

Best of the City: Dining

(Image: Christopher Stevenson)

Baguette Pasta Fad Hot Sauce Lobster reinvented Carnivore cure Roast chicken Devilled eggs Patio for dessert

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The Goods

From the Print Edition

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Best of the City 2011: Our picks for the coolest home decor and other goods

Best of the City 2011: Home Goods

(Image: Liam Mogan)

Patio chair Camera Axe Reclaimed wood furniture Vintage Curios Fresh-cut flowers Guilt-free makeup Soil for a veggie garden Kids’ furniture Kids’ sheets Gold faucet

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Summerlicious Lunch Pick: C5’s rustic yet inventive prix fixe


C5’s Summerlicious spread (Images: Andrew Brudz)

On the fifth floor of the ROM’s Michael Lee Chin Crystal is C5, the museum’s fine dining restaurant, which boasts a sharp dining room and stunning views of the city. Executive chef Ted Corrado (who worked his way through GeorgeLuce and Rain) serves inventive dishes that highlight local and sustainable ingredients, and his decidedly rustic $25 Summerlicious lunch menu is no exception. After a slightly dry albacore tuna salad with mango and mint, our main arrives: a hefty slice of grilled pork shoulder, with lots of tasty marbling, that’s resting in splashes of creamy polenta and spicy chorizo cacciatore. The excellent dessert, a summer berry shortcake, is more hearty scone than delicate cake, stuffed with rich vanilla chantilly cream and macerated cherries, strawberries, blueberries—the whole plate looking like it came straight out of a talented country kitchen.

The cost: $43, including tax, tip and a Mill St. Organic lager ($8).

The time: 50 minutes

C5, 100 Queen’s Park, 416-586-7928, c5restaurant.ca

SUMMERLICIOUS 2011 | SEE ALL

DOWNTOWN NORTH | DOWNTOWN SOUTH | EAST | WEST | UPTOWN

The Goods

From the Print Edition

1 Comment

The Thing: our newfound appreciation for the classic backpack

Backpacks

(Image: Jessica Milan)

Backpacks, a natural extension of the scruffy-prep “found-this-in-the-back-of-my-closet” look, are everywhere this summer, and for good reason. The schoolyard staple is eminently practical, a bag that’s purpose-built for carrying life’s real necessities: gym clothes, organic sausages, six-packs. Knapsacks even showed up on the runway at the most recent LG Fashion Week. Branksome-girls-turned-design-darlings Chloé and Parris Gordon (Chloé Comme Parris) featured iterations so chic they could have been ripped right off Kate Moss’s bony back, and a Bay Blanket bag was the jewel of the ridiculously buzzy Klaxon Howl show. Meanwhile, Queen West’s haute hipster outposts are churning out simpler versions that are big and boxy, with subtle flourishes like exposed stitching and leather trim. The look is almost anti-fashion, which, of course, makes it even more fashionable. But what we like most is having hands-free storage space and shoulders that don’t ache at the end of a long day. Whoever said “fashion before function” needs to update their accessories.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Nine West Coast wines that are flying off the shelves

Illustrated Portrait of David Lawrason

(Image: Jack Dylan)

California wine has always had a certain easygoing appeal, and the region’s big-ticket bottles have been a staple in collectors’ cellars for the last three decades. In my opinion, however, they’ve also suffered from excess—they’re too expensive, too candy-coated, too oaky and too hot on the finish. I get angry when I taste a $300 Napa Valley icon wine and discover it barely deserves 90 points—the quality doesn’t match the price. But a new generation of California winemakers is breaking away from tradition and working with new blends and grape varieties. Regions like Mendocino County, the Sonoma Coast and Paso Robles, which typically live in the shadow of Napa and Sonoma, are producing wine that’s more refined, better balanced and much more affordable (in the $20 to $40 range). This improvement, combined with a strong Canadian dollar, has boosted sales at the LCBO’s Vintages stores, where, for the first time ever, California wines are outselling those from Italy and France. In 2010, they brought in $70.8 million, which is a 21.5 per cent increase from 2009 and accounts for a fifth of all Vintages sales. I recently tasted several dozen of these top sellers and picked the best of the bunch.

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The Dish

Pantry Raid

4 Comments

Leslieville strikes oil: Montreal-based Olive and Olives to open up shop this spring

Leslieville’s recent boom in new gourmet food stores—including Foodist Market, Hooked and Sausage Partners—shows no signs of abating. The latest addition? Olive and Olives, the first Toronto location of the Montreal-based purveyor of high-quality olive oils. Danièle Beauchamp and Claudia Pharand, who run five shops and a thriving mail order business in Quebec, have partnered with Torontonian Mia Sturup to open up the Leslieville location.

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The Dish

Opening

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With Sausage Partners, Kyle Deming plans to contribute yet another chef-run fine food shop to the Leslieville strip

The Sausage Partners: Lorraine, Lilly and Kyle Deming (Image: Signe Langford)

First there was the Leslieville Cheese Market, then the Foodist Market, then Hooked, and now Sausage Partners. Leslieville is rapidly becoming the east end’s go-to ’hood for gourmet food shopping, and with many of these places being run by pro chefs, it’s easy to see why. This new meat shop will open in June in the former Inspired Cook space, with Kyle Deming (head chef at Starfish and Ceili Cottage) and his wife Lorraine at the helm. “We’ve been thinking about doing this for a long time,” explains Lorraine, “but we really got the push about two years ago when we made sausages for Patrick [McMurray]’s 40th birthday. Everyone was asking, ‘Where can we buy these?’ So we just kept thinking about it and it feels like the right time now.”

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The Goods

Shop Talk

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Introducing: John Allan’s men’s spa, yet another Hudson’s Bay Company acquisition

The place: Wednesday night’s opening of John Allan’s spa for men took place at The Bay’s flagship on Queen Street (just like so many things seem to these days). Occupying a corner of the third floor, the guys-only spot offers treatments for the shopping-weary fellow. The view doesn’t offer much serenity (it looks out over people who either can’t afford a membership or don’t want one), but we still think an accessible Toronto boys club is worth celebrating. Once The Bay gets its decent restaurant, we’ll never leave.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Reinvention tour: Ontario vintners are showing off their chardonnays and changing minds about the infamous ’80s grape

(Illustration: Jack Dylan)

The consumer revolt against chardonnay, known as the ABC (anything but chardonnay) movement, hasn’t stopped Ontario winemakers from producing excellent chardonnays. The province’s cool climate and limestone-rich soils provide similar conditions to those in Burgundy, France—the region that put chardonnay on the map with such wines as chablis, pouilly-fuissé and meursault. As the Ontario industry and its vines mature, home-grown chardonnays are becoming truly impressive, especially the more expensive varieties that are fermented and aged in French oak. To get the word out, Ontario vintners are sending their best bottlings (as selected in a blind tasting by Ontario wine critics) abroad to wine fairs. At the first event in London last year, pundits were pleasantly surprised to discover such high-quality chardonnays from a province known mostly for icewine. The enthusiastic response prompted Ontario wineries to repeat the performance this month for Manhattan’s wine critics. Niagara will also become an international chardonnay hub this July, when it hosts a multi-winery festival in honour of the cool-climate grape. To prime your palates, we’ve selected the region’s most seductive bottles.

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The Dish

Pantry Raid

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The Foodist Market, a new organic grocer, takes over Pulp Kitchen’s space on Queen East

(Image: Signe Langford)

The Foodist Market, a new small grocery shop in Leslieville, has only been open for a few days, so it’s no surprise that many of the deep, white shelves lining the walls of this former juice bar are still bare. The shop should be fully stocked in a matter of days, but until then there are still plenty of organic goodies in store to draw the locals. Standouts include over-the-top rich and porky lonza (cured pork loin), pancetta and capicollo from Niagara Food Specialties, cheeses from Monforte, breads from nearby St. John’s Bakery, salsas and chips from Toronto’s Mad Mexican and, of course, locally grown veggies, eggs and meats. Despite these, the focus here is on organic first, local second.

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The Dish

Pantry Raid

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Owners of Queen West’s Delight Chocolate open new cheese store in the basement

Highland Blue, Grey Owl and Cape Vessey cheeses from Le Caveau (Image: Signe Langford)

Building on their success with chocolate and cheese lovers in the Junction, Jeff Brown and Jennifer Rashleigh, co-owners of Delight Chocolate and Junction Fromagerie, have taken their show on the road to Queen West. The husband and wife team opened up a second location of Delight last March in the two-story space that once housed the Spice Trader and the Olive Pit. Last Saturday, they opened the door to a second cheese shop, Le Caveau—only this time, it’s in the chocolate shop’s basement.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

12 Comments

Toronto’s six best local cheeses

Canada’s cheeses are competing against Old World classics at the city’s finest cheesemongers. Here, six stinky stunners

1. Monforte Dairy Halloumi
This sheep’s milk cheese is exceptional brushed with olive oil, grilled or pan-fried, then eaten hot; the crusty exterior gives way to a squeaky-chewy interior. Available March through November at various farmers’ markets, including St. Lawrence Market North (93 Front St. E., 416-392-7120) on Saturdays. $2.50/100g.

2. Glengarry Cheesemaking’s Lankaaster Gouda
About Cheese carries this pasteurized cow’s milk cheese from Ontario. It’s mellow enough to appeal to the stink-phobic, but complex enough to charm hardcore fromageophiles. The slightly sweet paste with a semi-firm texture makes for an awesome nibble or an upscale addition to a sandwich. $6.85/100g. 483 Church St. (at Wellesley St. E.), 416-925-8659.

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The Dish

Crisper Confidential

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Inside the fridge of Mark Cutrara, executive chef and co-owner of Cowbell

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