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The Dish

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David Lawrason picks nine great, affordable pinot noirs from around the world

(Illustration: Jack Dylan)

Pinot noir is my desert island wine. It’s light and refreshing, and it pairs with just about any food. I adore it. For centuries, Burgundy, with its cool climate and limestone-rich soils, was one of the few places on the planet that could coax great wine from the famously precious, thin-skinned grape. As a result, pinot prices were inflated—one of the world’s most expensive reds is Burgundy’s Domaine Romanee-Conti pinot, which sells for $11,000. In the 1970s, under the disapproving gaze of the French, winemakers started planting pinot in Oregon, New Zealand, California and Ontario. The resulting wines were often exciting, though still expensive. Then 2004’s sleeper hit Sideways chronicled a pinot-swilling novelist’s road trip through California wine country and propelled the wine into the limelight. The heartbreak grape, as it’s known to vintners due to its finnicky nature, is now grown all over the globe and is much more affordable. While some may lament the popularization of the once-elite grape, I’m thrilled it’s more widely available. Here, nine bottles under $25 from Ontario, Australia and everywhere in between.

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The Informer

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Gregory Burke pulled the Power Plant out of debt and enhanced its international reputation. Then, he quit.

Gregory Burke with Sarah Bywater, the former Power Plant head fundraiser, at the 2009 Power Ball (Image: George Pimentel)

The Power Plant’s first board meeting of the year was held at noon on Monday, February 7. The gallery, situated on prime waterfront property, is a magnet for the city’s wealthy society figures. The clubby board of governors reflects that. Trinity Jackman, an archaeologist and the daughter of Hal Jackman, is the vice-president. The Drake Hotel owner Jeff Stober is a member, as are Rosedale hostess and arts patron Elisa Nuyten and the entertainment lawyer Paul Bain. The board’s president is Shanitha Kachan, an art collector and the wife of investment guru Gerald Sheff. Kachan called to order what should have been a routine, low-key meeting. Then came the big revelation.

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The Informer

Cityscape

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CN Tower launches EdgeWalk, for people who think skydiving is boring

The view looks great from inside the CN Tower (Image: Katherine_Davis)

This summer, the CN Tower is introducing a new attraction called EdgeWalk, allowing thrill-seekers to take a hands-free walk on a five-foot-wide ledge around the outside of the tower—116 storeys above ground. Anyone planning to add this to their bucket list may want to check everything else off first. Find out prices and dates after the, er, jump.

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The Informer

My Name Is Lucre

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Senate votes to kill Canada’s penny

The upper house of Parliament, apparently finished snuffing out climate change bills, has turned its eyes to a cause that warms the hearts of a small cadre of obsessed economists throughout the country: killing the penny. According to the Toronto Star, the Senate Committee on National Finance is set to recommend that Canada ditch the one-cent piece, largely because it had lost 95 per cent of its purchasing power since being introduced in 1908:

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The Dish

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Kiwi Magic: 29 standout New Zealand wines

New Zealand is famous for its sauvignon blancs. Now it’s wowing the world with pinot noirs

(Illustration: Brian Rea)

You can’t help but admire New Zealand’s vintners. In the span of a generation, the country went from having a marginal wine industry to being a top producer. In 1975, a tin hut winery called Matua Valley entered N.Z.’s first sauvignon blanc into a competition in Auckland. The intense blend of green and tropical flavours caught the attention of local growers, who soon transformed Marlborough’s sheep pastures into vineyards. By the early ’90s, sauv blanc had become the focus of an industry and government plan to export clean, green and “expensive-but-worth-it” wine—a script Ontario, a similarly small, cool-climate market, would be wise to copy. It’s been an enormous commercial success.

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The Hype

Quoted

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Justin Bieber doesn’t know what “German” means, denies Canadian identity

Even though we’re not 12-year-olds, this video of Justin Bieber making a fool out of himself on a New Zealand entertainment show pains us. (Take a look at the clip at the left.) When the interviewer asks him if “Bieber” is German for “basketball,” the Biebs is beyond confused by the meaning of the word “German.” Even when the interviewer apologizes for his accent and shows Bieber the word, he says, “I don’t know what that means.” It’s like a sketch on Flight of the Conchords. Bieber then adds, even more cringe-inducingly, “We don’t say that in America.” America? What the what? At least Canadians can avoid national embarrassment.

The Goods

Required Reading

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The Necky is the new Snuggie, André Leon Talley to judge ANTM, Rachel McAdams’s Vogue cover, Dov Charney strikes again

dovcharney

Who wouldn't take beauty advice from Dov Charney? (Photo by Legalize LA)

Rachel McAdams is on the cover of January’s Vogue, wearing floral print, a cardigan and a terrible hairdo. She’s a Toronto girl, so we’re full of pride, especially because Vogue covers tend to be reserved for the same few American and British celebs. But we can’t get over that hair, which has been described as Kate Gosselin–esque, and that’s never a good thing. [Lainey Gossip]

Dov Charney is at it again. The mustachioed CEO of American Apparel is apparently telling staffers how to tweeze their brows. In an e-mail sent to employees, Charney attached a picture of a female with over-plucked eyebrows (in an AA store, no less) captioned “No”; also attached was a shot of the apparently more ideal Brooke Shields eyebrows, captioned with a “Yes.” One of the company’s employees is appalled at how the e-mail was directed at women, but really, beauty tips are pretty harmless compared to Charney’s other alleged exploits. [Jezebel]

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The Dish

Read All About It

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Dinner with Sarah Palin, fresh Ontario strawberries in autumn, the most carnivorous countries on earth

Eating with Sarah Palin for per hour (Photo by Jeff Geerling)

The winner of an eBay auction will pay $63,500 to eat a four-hour dinner with ex-governor Sarah Palin. That's $15,875 per hour or $4.41 per second (Photo by Jeff Geerling)

• An Alabama woman, who was apparently in search of good conversation about hockey and creationism, won an eBay auction for dinner with Sarah Palin; her winning bid was $63,500. The woman holds great admiration for the former vice-presidential candidate, saying she would like to see her as president. She will be permitted to spend a maximum of four hours with her, and the proceeds of the “priceless” encounter will be donated to charity. [New York Daily News]

• Competing with California’s strawberries has been tough for Ontario farmers, but new varieties capable of growing well into the fall are making the job easier. These “day neutral” strawberries are just as plump and sweet as summer berries (though they’re firmer) and are left to ripen on the vine before coming to Toronto stores, as opposed to California berries, which are picked green. [Toronto Star]

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The Dish

Read All About It

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Free coffee from McDonald’s, Toronto restaurants stayin’ alive, Keith’s moves west

Keith's is the new beer out there

Keith’s is the new beer out there

• High-end restaurants like Perigee have been hit by the humbled TSX, but many others are adapting to the new market and staying strong while “new” spots continue to sprout up. [National Post]

• Looks like the latte factor counts after all. With national coffee sales down this year, McDonald’s is giving out free morning brew every day for the next two weeks in an attempt to woo Starbrucks’ refugees. [Toronto Star]

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Wine

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Rivers Run Through It: Vintages’ June 21 Release

The trumped-up theme for Vintages’ June 21 release is Europe’s Wine Rivers: Great Finds From Legendary Riverside Vineyards. South-facing riverside sites can deliver extra quality in northern Europe; they benefit from the increased heat of the better exposure. But winemakers, not riverbank exposure, are responsible for quality. There are some good wines in this selection, but hardly anything legendary. The real theme is Some Decent Wines We Put Together From Europe at About $20 So That We Could Spend Lots of Money on This Glossy Spread in the Catalogue. Here are 10 of the better buys from the Rivers selection, plus other noteworthy wines from elsewhere in the catalogue:

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Wine

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Now is New Zealand’s moment

In Ontario, the momentum of New Zealand wines reaches a crescendo on May 24, when Vintages releases 28 labels from the Pacific’s tiny, perfect wine isles. There is no official count in progress, but this is one of the largest Vintages theme releases in memory, and chock full of exciting wines. It follows hard on the heels of the ever-popular New Zealand wine fair—held at the Design Exchange last week—where a tasting highlighted the new generation of such richer reds as syrah, malbec and tempranillo, and proved that the region is not a one-trick, cool-climate sauvignon blanc pony.

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Wine

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California comes to Canada

The California Wine Fair rolls into the Fairmont Royal York Hotel on Monday, April 28, brimming with bottles that, by and large, cannot be found on the shelves of the LCBO. Of the 69 wines assembled for the fair’s preview media tasting last month, only 20 are currently available at Vintages or the LCBO. This doesn’t mean the LCBO is ignoring California: a big promo swings into gear in early May that introduces several new brands to the general list; and on Saturday, Vintages will be offering up a couple of dozen new releases as well. But the fair showcases so many, many more—a huge reservoir of wine either being sold direct to restaurateurs via the below-the-radar consignment program, or wines that want to be here and might just find a niche if they create a buzz at the fair. With so many wines and so little time, the grapevine goes electric. Why must all the big wine presentations in our city be so restrictive, so pressured, and in such chaos? And why must the pourers spend most of their time apologizing that we can’t actually buy the wine they are serving?

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Wine

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California Greening

My column in the May issue of Toronto Life (on newsstands April 10) examines the burgeoning “green” wine movement, with observations and reviews based on tastings at the international Return to Terroir event in February, and Vintages’ organics release on March 29. Since then, I have compiled even more notes on the wine world’s most pressing trend. Much of the information and inspiration has come out of California, where “green” is becoming an industry-wide mantra. Grape growers are taking the lead in environmental practices and turning the heads of those in other sectors of California’s massive agricultural industry. Two insiders have told me that a stunning 55 per cent of Californian wine producers have now registered for a new program that allows for self-assessment of sustainable agriculture practices.

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Wine

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Sweeping the pinot noir minefield

Every article I have ever read about pinot noir has noted that this is a grape that disappoints as often as it thrills—that it is necessary to be an adventurer, to be forgiving and able to get back in the saddle after forking out a substantial sum and finding the wine tart, mean or downright funky (especially when dealing with burgundy of lesser provenance) The red flag goes up again on March 1, when Vintages releases several burgundies from producers rarely seen here. There are a couple of winners, but overall the selection leaves me to ponder whether anyone is critically tasting these wines before they buy them. There is also a smattering from elsewhere, including Niagara, Oregon, California and B.C.’s Okanagan Valley, again with mixed results. As your minesweeper—and from the vantage point of pinot being my favourite variety—here is a review of every pinot I have tasted on this release, from best to worst:

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Wine

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Surprising Australians in Vintages’ new release

The upcoming March issue of Toronto Life (on newsstands February 7th) contains reviews of 10 wines from Vintages’ February 2nd release, all of which have been rated 90 points or higher by other writers. In the spirit of helping you critique the critics, my reviews in the magazine compare my impressions and ratings to theirs, but there are certainly more than 10 interesting wines on this release.

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