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The Dish

De-licious

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The Best of Winterlicious 2011: Toronto Life’s 62 favourite restaurants

(Image: Renée Suen, from the torontolife.com Flickr pool)

January is upon us, and for many hungry Torontonians, that means one thing: Winterlicious. The menus are less predictable than previous years—crème brûlée’s out,  lentils du Puy are in—so even the ’Licious haters might have a reason to take advantage of the festival this year. We’ve already named the 12 menus that we think are the best bets, but that doesn’t begin to cover it. Here, find Toronto Life’s 62 favourite Winterlicious restaurants, complete with menus, reviews and reservation numbers.

Winterlicious runs from January 28 to February 10. Reservations are accepted from January 13 onward (January 11 for American Express users).

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the 24-hour sam gye tang soup at Etsu

A chicken in every pot at Etsu (Image: Renée Suen)

Taking responsibility for holiday excesses might be a painful task, but Etsu’s sam gye tang ($23) goes a long way in helping tighten belts, both the literally and figuratively. The soup must be ordered a day in advance, but planning ahead pays off: the dish is hearty enough for two, consisting of a whole chicken, stuffed with sticky rice and slow simmered in a savoury broth with Korean ginseng and oriental herbs. The dish is sweetened by dried jujubes, tender garlic cloves, and draped with omelette slivers, pine nuts, scallions and a boiled chestnut. Coarse salt and ground pepper are provided for DIY seasoning. The one-pot meal is more than comfort; Korean tradition purports to cure physical ailments and prevent sickness.

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The Dish

De-licious

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12 best bets for Winterlicious 2011: our chief critic goes through the menus so you don’t have to

A steak dinner at Noce (Image: Renée Suen)

Big-spending downtown Torontonians have taken in the past few years to whining about Winterlicious, but the two-week dining festival, running from January 28 through February 10, remains popular for a reason: it offers great value, particularly if you choose your reservations well. Here are a dozen of Toronto Life’s best bets. They’re older, more established places, generally, with kitchens that clearly care. And though we haven’t yet tasted the restaurants’ 2011 Winterlicious menus, they’re full of interesting, delicious-sounding picks.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the $6 chicken curry burrito at the Drake Café

The good and the grape: Drake Café's chicken curry burrito (Image: Catherine Hayday)

The café at the Drake Hotel is showing a bit of mercy to busy office workers who don’t have time for a sit-down lunch. Its new (and aptly titled) Grab and Go menu features one-hand-required “type and eat” sandwiches that break from shrink-wrapped, cardboard-laced cubicle fare. The chicken curry version is fresh and filling. It comes with moist meat and just the right amount of spice, but its most impressive features are fruit and nuts:  grapes, apples and walnuts. Available when the café opens at 8 a.m., the sandwich can be procured mid-commute. The grapes and walnuts ensure that it’s is still juicy and crunchy at midday.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the gooey Dungeness crab mac-and-cheese at Reds

Top toque Michael Steh, bronze medallist at Toronto’s annual Gold Medal Plates competition, is the culinary mastermind behind this haute mac-and-cheese. The bowl of al dente ditalini is enriched with moist shreds of crab and scallions, spiked with just enough grainy mustard to give it a nutty crunch. It’s all baked under a blistered layer of fontina. The final product is like a crab cake, only made better thanks to the naughty combination of the nostalgia of kiddie comfort food and a three-ounce pour of muscat blanc ($7).
Time:
56 minutes.
Cost:
$27, before tax and tip.
Reds,
77 Adelaide St. W., 416-862-7337, redsbistro.com.

The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the $38 Trust the Chef prix fixe at Didier

Didier Leroy, English Canada’s first Maître Cuisinier de France, offers one of Toronto’s more curious lunch experiences: a three-course mystery menu in which the entire table must participate. On this sunny afternoon, our trust in the chef pays off handsomely. A pair of baked eggs coddled with black truffles and foie gras arrive in an irresistibly rich madeira sauce. Next, Atlantic salmon roulade, kissed with briny sturgeon caviar, arrives on a bed of sweet braised leeks and puréed potatoes. The meal finishes with a crème brûlée that’s creamy cool, with hints of Tahitian vanilla and a thick, golden sugar crust.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the soft shell crab BLT at Nota Bene

Former Splendido mastermind David Lee named his restaurant after the Latin for “take note”—and this BLT is one of many reasons to do just that. The classic lunch sandwich more than lives up to its acronym: crisp bacon, fresh greens, lemon-herb mayo and plum tomatoes as red as they are flavourful are nestled between toasted slices of toasted white Epi Bread. Lee ups the ante by stuffing it full of crispy, deep-fried, chipotle-zinged soft-shell crab. With a few house-made potato chips and gherkins, the deli staple becomes a lunchtime luxury.
The cost:
$33, including tax and tip.
The time:
55 minutes, with our food arriving in less than 15 minutes.
Nota Bene,
180 Queen St. W., 416-977-6400,
notabenerestaurant.com.

The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the $7 stew at Buk Chang Dong Soon Tofu

Kimchee, tofu stew, rice and soup at Buk Chang Dong Soon Tofu (Image: Renée Suen)

What this little Korean institution lacks in decor it more than makes up for with its namesake specialty, served as part of a set menu ($7–$9). We’re greeted with a cup of barley tea and complimentary dishes of kimchee, simmered soybeans and blanched bean sprouts. Soon, a bubbling cauldron of kimchee-tofu stew peppered with bits of pork and beef arrives with a small egg that we crack into the spicy broth. While the egg poaches, a server ladles black Japonica rice from a hot stone pot into a cool dish, then fills the empty pot with water for the meal’s second course: burnt rice soup. The tofu stew is a filling and fiery affair, and the soup acts as a hearty digestif.

The time: Everything arrives within 10 minutes, but it takes 28 more to finish the ample food on the table.

The cost: $10, including tax and a $2 tip.

Buk Chang Dong Soon Tofu, 691 Bloor St. W. (at Manning Ave.), 416-537-0972.

The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the $29 prix fixe at Trevor Kitchen and Bar

Just don't call them sliders (Image: Matthew Fox)

For its four-year life, this acclaimed downtown restaurant has been a dinner-only establishment. That all changed this month as Trevor Kitchen and Bar opened its doors to lunchers. The elegant and cozy dining room makes the most of its underground space, with exposed stones and a little conceptual art (pity about the pot lighting, though). The freshly printed lunch menu includes à la carte selections, as well as two prix fixe options ($22 for two courses or $29 for three, both with a 30-minute lunch time guarantee). The shaved autumn vegetable salad features vibrant arugula, luscious, crunchy curls of golden beets, spiced pecans and pomegranate molasses. Two juicy mini Kobe burgers with mushrooms (the menu avoids the unappetizing moniker “sliders”) are delicious enough to make us wish they were plus-sized. The requisite side of fries gets some bold assistance from the garlic-truffle mayo. Crème brûlée and sorbet can be found anywhere, so choosing from among the three dessert options is a no-brainer: the rich dark chocolate cake with peanut butter chantilly and fresh berries defines decadence.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the $22 Lunch Special at George

George's beef tenderloin with chevre and sweet potato (Image: Renée Suen)

Bay Street bistros can be frantic at midday, but at George, a few streets over, noon hour is a tranquil experience, set in a room of wood, linen and wrought iron. Pricey at dinner, the Queen East restaurant is more accessible at lunch with its wallet-friendly $22 special featuring any plate from the a la carte menu, one side and a dish of complimentary tapenade with fingers of focaccia. Our main is a layered affair: gooey goat cheese gratin adds depth and complexity to a rare beef tenderloin medallion that’s set in a sweet potato cake. Fresh blackberries and crisp green bean caponata punch through the fat. The daily side also amazes: curry-stuffed okra pods encased in tempura and juxtaposed by a mango, tomato and red onion salad.
The cost: $28.86, including tax and tip.
The time: 55 minutes.
George, 111C Queen St. E. (at Mutual St.), 416-863-6006, georgeonqueen.com.

The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the $16 prix fixe at Mengrai Gourmet Thai

Any list—formal or otherwise—of Toronto’s best Thai restaurants will inevitably include Mengrai Gourmet Thai. The ivy-covered building with an exposed-brick interior is an anomaly along this rough part of Richmond East but is known among local newspaper staffers and creative types as the ’hood’s go-to place for pad Thai, curries and stir-fries. The prix fixe lunch ($16) features chef Sasi Meechai-Lim’s delicate fresh salad roll accompanied by tiger shrimp, crispy deep-fried jumbo panko prawn, and a tiny shrimp triangle wrapper. But these are mere extras compared to the scene-stealing supporting player—a smooth, deservedly lauded golden pumpkin soup—and the undisputed star, a red curry chicken with pineapple and lychees. The pineapple-less presentation lacks the pizzazz of its dinnertime incarnation, but no matter: the dish finds the perfect balance between spicy and sweet. Dessert is the standard, but still appreciated, selection of lychee, mango, green tea and red bean ice cream.
The cost:
$30, including tax, tip and a bottle of Tsingtao ($6).
The time:
50 minutes.
Mengrai Thai,
82 Ontario St. (at Richmond St. E.), 416-840-2754, mengraithai.com

The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the beef sukiyaki at Tokyo Grill

Sukiyaki at Tokyo Grill (Image: Renée Suen)

Turns out Guu isn’t the only place to go for Japanese comfort food. Homesick expats and Japanophiles often turn to the belly-warming sukiyaki ($12) at Tokyo Grill, an unassuming (even garish) hole in the wall near the gay village. The sumo-sized cast-iron pot comes packed with shirataki noodles, sautéed bean sprouts, spinach and sweet onions, topped off with a poached egg, thin slices of beef and creamy soft tofu. The soy-mirin broth hasn’t been over-sugared for Western tastes; it’s semi-sweet and sublimely piqued with a touch of shichimi togarashi seasoning. Diners who sit in are rewarded with a complimentary bowl of miso soup that’s showered with scallions, wakame and tofu cubes.
The cost: $19 per person, including tax, tip, an upgrade to brown rice ($1) and tea ($1). Cash only.
The time: 31 minutes.
Tokyo Grill, 582 Yonge St. (at Wellesley), 416-968-7054.

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The Hype

TIFF Talk

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Spy on the stars: midday interview series on Peter Street makes it easy to see celebs

Owen and Franco and Keener, oh my

Contrary to popular belief, stars don’t only come out at night, spottable only as they rush from black SUVs to VIP sections. We’ve figured out a way to see them in broad daylight. Over the course of TIFF, our friends at the film site IndieWire are hosting a series of lunchtime interviews with Clive Owen, Catherine Keener, David Schwimmer and James Franco, to name just a few. The chats will be on the ground floor of the spanking new Filmmaker’s Lounge (134 Peter Street), which has massive windows that overlook the street. Downtowners are welcome to come by and gawk. BlackBerry users can even ask the stars questions by texting them to PIN number 20878C9E.

The whole schedule of which stars will appear on which day, after the jump.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

2 Comments

Where to eat lunch this week: Vertical

This financial district mainstay keeps the food fresh and the patio busy

The late-summer lunch: duck breast on the Vertical patio

The place: Vertical’s lofty canopy-covered terrace rises above the hubbub of King Street and draws the crowds on this cool summer’s day.

The crowd: Business-casual 30-somethings clink martini glasses while two CEO types linger over their dessert plates and wrap up negotiations. Nobody is rushing to get back to work from the glorious patio.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: La Bettola di Terroni

The latest addition to the Terroni empire lives up to its famous name

The place: La Bettola di Terroni is the boisterous new member of the Terroni family. There is plenty of culinary crossover here: it shares a kitchen with Osteria Ciceri e Tria next door and several menu items with Terroni Adelaide. While it’s certainly the most casual of all the Terroni incarnations, it boasts an impressive wine selection and a stylishly rustic interior by Giannone Petricone Associates Inc. with graphics by Small Design, proving “bettola” (Italian for a dive or shabby restaurant) a humble misnomer.

The crowd: A lively full house, with the typical downtown mix of suits, tourists and shoppers.

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