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The Dish

TV Diner

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Top Chef Canada recap, episode 4: ethnic stuff white people like

The judges get their serious faces on as the losing teams walk out (Image: Food Network Canada/Insight Productions)

TOP CHEF CANADA
Season 1 | Episode 4

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First off, a confession: focusing on Top Chef Canada last night, as the ground-shaking results from the election poured in, was a little tough (we bet this episode’s ratings will agree). But fear not, election junkies–cum–Top Chef fans—we stuck it out so you didn’t have to (and then promptly switched to the CBC to find the Tory win had already been projected). Still, episode four—which featured Susur Lee, Toronto’s ethnic cuisines and, yes, more chefs in their underwear (hi, Dale!)—turned out to be pretty entertaining. After the jump, our recap of the Top Chef Canada episode you were too patriotic to watch.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the heavenly tinga tostada at Agave y Aguacate

The tinga tostada and lime charlotte at Agave y Aguacate (Image: Renée Suen)

Desperate for decent street food, eager Torontonians line up daily at this little Mexican food stall in Kensington Market. Francisco Alejandri makes each item to order, employing the expert knife skills he honed during his years at Scaramouche, Torito and the Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar. Different combinations of avocado, tomato, lime juice, red onion and pork-fat fried black beans adorn most of the dishes, but each has its own charms. The heavenly tinga tostada ($5.50) is a mound of tender, pulled chipotle chicken sautéed with cabbage, that comes on a crunchy, fried-to-order tortilla shell. A cooling slice of creamy avocado, dribbled crema fresca and slivered red onions provide a nice contrast to the bold flavours below. The meal is best enjoyed al fresco on a nearby park bench with a decadent square of tart lime charlotte ($2.75): rich lime custard sandwiched between Maria biscuits dusted with lime zest and a drizzle of buttery Arbequina olive oil.

The cost: $8.25, tax included. Cash only.

The time: 20 minutes on a rainy weekday (from order until the last crumb was polished off)—relatively speedy compared to the snaking lines you find on sunnier days.

Agave y Aguacate, 214 Augusta Ave. (look for El Gordo Fine Foods), 647-208-3091.

The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Best of the City 2010: 14 picks for the top food in Toronto

Leaf fan: Matchbox Gardens grows rare and wonderful lettuces (Image: Jay Shuster)

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From the Print Edition

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Best of the City 2010: our picks for the top brunches in uptown, midtown and downtown

Huevos Ahogados
Frida
999 Eglinton Ave. W., 416-787-2221

Jose Hadad, the chef at this Forest Hill restaurant, offers an authentic Mexican breakfast. Our favourite: fluffy scrambled eggs bathed in glittering, tart salsa verde with a dollop of rich house-made sour cream. On the side, cotija cheese, beans and tortilla. $13.

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The Dish

Neighbourhoods

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The Dundas West Guide: our 21 favourite places between Ossington and Lansdowne

The strip of Dundas West between Ossington and Lansdowne has not been immune to the wild gentrification going on directly south of it. New restaurants, stores and bars have been cropping up for the past couple of years (Red Canoe, a swank Canadiana shop, opened two weeks ago), but there is a hesitation in the ’hood to turn Little Portugal and Brockton Village into the next Ossington. Incoming business owners make a point of blending in with the long-standing family-owned bakeries, soccer bars and pho stops. Even in new establishments, the decor has a thrift shop feel, and the prices cater to locals rather than destination diners. From east to west, here are our 21 favourite Dundas West spots for cheap eats, good music and authentic Portuguese cuisine.

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From the Print Edition

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Mug Shot: how to make Milagro’s tuna ceviche

At fiesta-primed Milagro, the tuna ceviche is splendour in a glass

Upscale Mexican food in Toronto was pretty much non-existent until Artura Anhalt and his brother Andrés swooped into town in 2006. Over the past four years, they’ve quietly built a culinary empire (three Milagro locations, plus the recently opened La Perla Cantina). While their cooking is modern, they keep things authentic, like serving saltines with their caper-laden tuna ceviche. Hoisting such an elegant dish on a humble cracker might seem sacrilegious, but that’s how it’s done at the beaches in Mexico, where the brothers grew up. For landlocked city dwellers, it a perfect zippy appetizer for backyard feasts.

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Mustard ad made entirely of meat, debunking rumours of a Jennifer Aniston-Jamie Oliver partnership, the caloric overload of eggnog

Military beefcake Lord Kitchener shills for Colman's

Military beefcake Lord Kitchener shills for Colman's

• A Colman’s Mustard’s advertisement featuring Lord Kitchener’s face recreated with meat is making veggie boosters like Paul McCartney lose their kale-burger lunches. The ad is a recreation of an iconic British WWI poster and is composed of sausage fingers, beef, chicken and sliced ham. The creepiest part might be that the yellow-tinged eyes are real, likely plucked from a pig. [Guardian]

• Meet Canada’s culinary David, Mathieu Cloutier, who upset Goliaths like Iron Chef America winner Rob Feenie and Nota Bene’s David Lee to win this year’s national Gold Medal Plates championships. Hitherto unknown, the chef started Montreal’s 30-seat Kitchen Galerie two years ago with partners Jean-Philippe St-Denis and Axel Mevel, hoping at least to break even by serving six clients a night. The dining room has been packed ever since. This past July, Cloutier and St-Denis opened a second spot, larger and more stylish, called Chez Edgar. The chef’s winning dish was an inventive and quirky foie gras steamed in a dishwasher, then served cold with muscat wine jelly and long peppers. [Globe and Mail]

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Aprons & Icons

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Greg Couillard’s back in Toronto to cook up a Mexican-Caribbean-Indonesian-Asian menu at the Spice Room

(Photo by Karon Liu)

Greg Couillard gets a temporary facelift from fellow chef David Nganga (Photo by Karon Liu)

“If chefs are not doing drugs, they’re drinking; and if they’re not doing either, they’re lying,” says Greg Couillard while sipping his morning coffee at his Yorkville restaurant, the Spice Room. “I’ve done enough of both for everyone in the city. I’ve done everything from A to Z. You can leave out ecstasy, though.”

The notorious chef has just flown back to Toronto from the retirement town of Ajijic, Mexico, where his new restaurant—the tapas-style Chili Bang Bar—will soon open its doors. This Thursday, Friday and Saturday at the Spice Room, Torontonians can get a taste of the chef’s new Bang Bar recipes, as well as dishes mentioned in his upcoming cookbook. The five-course menu ($80; $60 for fewer courses) is a curious collision of Mexican, Caribbean, Indonesian and Asian flavours, including jicama tacos stuffed with agave-cooked shrimp, roasted corn and chili-crusted grouper with coconut-chili risotto, and a Mongolian-spiced rabbit baked in a clay pot.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: Milagro

MilagroMEDThe three-course prix fixe at this cantina proves there’s more to Mexican food than nachos and tacos—and at $21, it’s a steal compared to the dinner prices.

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Michael Smith’s tweeting imposter, coffee does not keep drivers alert, Mexican truffles come to T.O.

• Canadian chef Michael Smith, one of the Food Network’s biggest stars, was recently appalled to find that a fake Michael Smith had emerged on Twitter. Of all the caustic things the imposter could have done, he settled for systematically shooting down Montreal’s food scene using depressingly resentful tweets: “Montreal means grotesque, tragic food served by hateful staff.” The real Michael Smith has stood up, however, denouncing the imposter and starting his own Twitter account. [National Post]

• The iGeneration can now iDiet with FoodScanner, a new app that allows users to track their calories by scanning the bar code of the foods they eat with an iPhone camera. While anything healthy is, of course, less likely to have a label on it, items that can’t be scanned can be searched for in a database of over 200,000 foods. [CNET]

• New research may add another twist to the term drinking and driving. According to a study by the U.S. National Safety Commission, within one hour of consuming highly caffeinated drinks, drivers show delays in reaction time similar to the symptoms of alcohol intoxication. As expected, the researchers don’t recommend drinking caffeine to stay awake while driving. It’s better to switch drivers or take a break when possible. [New York Daily News]

• The decidedly unsustainable practice of harvesting caviar has invariably meant a violent demise for female sturgeons, the only fish whose eggs are eaten as the highly coveted delicacy. Enter Mottra, new on the caviar scene; it’s the first company to devise a new extraction technique that spares the life of the sturgeon (which can live up to 35 years). Instead of killing the fish, as is the standard practice, a small incision is made and the roe are massaged out. After 14 months of enjoying their previously unheard-of post-harvest life, the fish have their roe extracted once again. [Independent]

• With the end of the corn-growing season fast approaching, now is the time to get into some corn smut—more appetizingly known as huitlacoche or the “Mexican truffle.” Considered a delicacy in its homeland but a pest in the U.S., huitlacoche is a fungus that grows right on the cob, adding corn tones to its smoky and sweet taste. It’s generating some buzz among Toronto foodies, and there are currently at least two chefs growing it here. It can also be found at Mexican cantina Milagro and at next weekend’s Brickworks Picnic. [CBC]

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Restauran-TO

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Riding the gravy train: Smoke’s Poutinerie plans new locations and a poutine truck

Smoke's

Smolkin shows off his triple pork poutine: bacon, pulled pork and sausage atop fries (Photo by Karon Liu)

Fries, curds and gravy—three simple ingredients that, when combined, create a dish as Canadian as hockey. Toronto’s love affair with poutine started years ago with haute incarnations from Jamie Kennedy and in restaurants like Bymark (it’s hard to go wrong when both lobster and fries are involved). When Café du Lac opened in 2008, we swooned for its foie gras–topped version. It was perhaps inevitable, then, that poutine-focused restaurants would soon follow, and the first was thanks to Ryan Smolkin, an ex-advertising exec with no hospitality experience.

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Seal meat on the rise, New Yorkers in the Junction, marriage linked to obesity

• Seal meat is the hot entrée at Montreal restaurants a month after the Governor General Michaëlle Jean horrified vegans by eating raw seal, proving that when it comes to good eating, diners are unmoved by cuteness. Perhaps PETA’s campaign to stop the consumption of fish—by renaming them “sea-kittens”—might actually backfire. [New York Times]

Corey Mintz strives to prove that there are good Mexican restaurants in Toronto. His weekend review of fancy Frida, mid-priced Milagro and straight-up Rebozos reveals that authentic Mexican can be found at every price point. But while he made us crave citrus ceviche, we’d like to point out that all the restaurants he visited are all north of St. Clair. Luckily, Milagro has a second location in the entertainment district. [Toronto Star]

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Opening

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Milagro: Movin’ on uptown

milagroWhen brothers Andrés and Arturo Anhalt opened Milagro restaurant on Mercer Street, they did it to offer authentic Mexican cuisine to a city hooked on burritos, nachos and other dishes of the Tex-Mex persuasion. Torontonians, it turned out, were receptive to their ceviches and mole sauces—so much so that a mere three years later, Milagro has opened a second location, on Yonge, north of Lawrence.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Toronto Life’s Weekly Lunch Pick

Tacos for a change (Photo by Catherine Hayday)

(Photo by Catherine Hayday)

Our intrepid foodie locates an amazing taco-and-salad combo in the west end—a steal at $11.

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