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Toronto Life - The Wire

The comprehensive index of every blog post, magazine story and restaurant review that appears on Torontolife.com

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: Vertical

This financial district mainstay keeps the food fresh and the patio busy

The late-summer lunch: duck breast on the Vertical patio

The place: Vertical’s lofty canopy-covered terrace rises above the hubbub of King Street and draws the crowds on this cool summer’s day.

The crowd: Business-casual 30-somethings clink martini glasses while two CEO types linger over their dessert plates and wrap up negotiations. Nobody is rushing to get back to work from the glorious patio.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Flavour of the month: 13 ways that local chefs are cooking with corn

We love what Toronto chefs are doing with corn this season. The sweet summer staple is showing up on menus not just boiled and buttered, but grilled, ground, pureéd, roasted, even nitro-zapped. Here, the best places to get your fix

(Image: My Yen Trung)

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Full Throttle: Chris Nuttall-Smith takes on Parts and Labour

The Parkdale it spot is a raucous hybrid of fine dining and indie cheek. It’s loud, stylish and double-dares you to eat fried pig face

(Image: Ryan Szulc)

They started jacking the stereo around 8 p.m., just as we were eating the chopped raw lamb with herbed, salted lard. By the time the horse tenderloin arrived, it felt as if a maniacal toddler had been handed control of the dial. Groups of young, aggressively stylish women tottered in, past the velvet rope, past the bouncer with the neck tattoo and under the decorative, gold-leafed satellite dish that its designer (one of the restaurant’s owners) described as a “Hegelian dialectic between high and low.” The music, thumping from the five JBL speakers arrayed above the bar, kept rising, as if in salutation. We had to press our ribs into the edge of our long, too-wide communal table and shout to hear each other when we bothered trying to talk at all.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: Marben’s Monday brunch

The revamped Wellington West hot spot nails that perfect brunch ratio of sweet to savoury—even on Monday

The traditional breakfast at an untraditional time

The place: Marben’s recently unveiled renovation—undulating ceiling slats, exposed-filament light bulbs, reclaimed wooden shelves, jarred preserves—is worth a peek, but it’s summer, and this is Toronto. We immediately request seating on the sunny front patio, where unmatched chairs, a green wall and a rustic communal table echo the interior’s cottage-chic design.

The crowd: King West’s polo-shirted bourgeoisie is in full force. Nearby are a clutch of hip, mature businesswomen and a pair of chatty designers with five cell phones on their table. In the corner sits a Dragons’ Den judge with two-tone hair and sunglasses that fool nobody.

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The Dish

Culinary Curiosities

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UN recommends we all start eating bugs

Bug stand: a Thai merchant sells bugs from her food cart in Bangkok (Image: Rene Ehrhardt)

Entomophagy, the practice of eating insects, has been the subject of many a food trend story. Apparently, bugs are a nutritious, protein-rich and environmentally sustainable source of food. Now that there’s a worldwide meat crisis looming, the Guardian is reporting on how the UN is taking a serious look at the benefits of farming insects.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Best of the City 2010: 14 picks for the top food in Toronto

Leaf fan: Matchbox Gardens grows rare and wonderful lettuces (Image: Jay Shuster)

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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A preview of Caplansky’s new menu

The classic: Caplansky's smoked meat sandwich isn't going anywhere (Image: Matthew Fox)

Eating one’s way through the short menu at Caplansky’s Delicatessen takes only a few visits—for now. Soon, the College Street institution will expand its meal options as owner Zane Caplansky is hard at work on a new menu. In his blog, the famed deli guru says that the selection is currently “dead simple” and that customers can expect a new maple dipped fried chicken, as well as the gluttonous-sounding Leaning Tower of Caplansky: three pieces of challah stacked with blueberry jam, cream cheese and beef bacon, topped with maple syrup.

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Prime Steakhouse unveils its new chef’s new menu

Prime, that famed steakhouse at the Windsor Arms Hotel, has become a revolving door for chefs, of late. After executive Stephen Ricci left earlier this year, alumnus J.P. Challet (he helmed the kitchen during Prime’s 1999 relaunch) returned to liven up the joint. Just five months into his tenure, Challet abruptly announced his resignation. “I don’t believe in the steak house. I don’t believe in fine dining anymore,” he told us in June. The restaurant has managed to pick up the pieces with a new head chef—Richard Andino of Flowand brand new menus. There are also plans for an all-new restaurant at the hotel.

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The Dish

Opening

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O&B reveals the names of its Lightbox restos

Oliver and Bonacini thinks inside the Box (Image: Bell Lightbox)

What a coincidence: Oliver and Bonacini put out a press release about its new Lightbox restaurants just as TIFF published its list of 50 special presentations.

First things first: we finally have the names of the two restaurants. The 3,500-square-foot bistro right at the building’s main entrance at King and John is called O&B Canteen and will open mid-August, serving meals from breakfast to late-night seven days a week. It will seat 90 people inside (banquettes and a communal table) and 70 on the patio.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Scarpetta, the Thompson Hotel’s New York restaurant import

Chef Scott Conant had never thought of opening a restaurant in Toronto, but when he was approached by the Thompson Hotel group and asked to do just that, it seemed like a logical step for him and his now-famous brand, Scarpetta. “I have so many clients from Toronto who visit my New York and Miami restaurants, it just seems like a natural progression,” says the James Beard Award winner. “To expand on the east coast also means it’ll be easier to travel between the places, since a flight from Toronto to Miami is only three hours. It just made sense. Toronto is an alpha city, and it’s great to be a part of it.”

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Hub, Wallace-Emerson’s new indie coffee shop

Toronto’s wealth of new indie cafés has been a boon to community life, but mostly for neighbourhoods south of Bloor. That’s not the case with Hub, which opened last weekend on a residential stretch of Shaw Street near Dupont. The spot has already gained a following from the residents of Dovercourt-Wallace-Emerson-Junction who are thankful they no longer have to hop on their bikes to find a quick lunch, a latte or a cool escape from un-air-conditioned townhouses. At midday on a Wednesday, the place is bustling with moms with strollers and dads giving their daughters piggyback rides.

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The Dish

Opening

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Scarpetta’s Scott Conant sends “an open letter to Toronto” just before opening his new restaurant at the Thompson Hotel

New York restaurateur Scott Conant has written an open letter to Toronto, which was published on the Huffington Post this morning. His main intention is to plug his much-anticipated Hogtown location of Scarpetta at the Thompson Hotel, but the text also manages to illustrate that his multitasking is as strong on the page as it is in the kitchen. The letter is a masterwork of contradiction, managing to condescend, schmooze and charm all at the same time.

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The Dish

Opening

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Oliver and Bonacini blogs about Bell Lightbox restaurants

(Image: Bell Lightbox)

Sure, all eyes may be on the celebrities and the films during TIFF, but the food industry is keeping a close eye on Oliver and Bonacini’s new digs at the Bell Lightbox. The company launched its own blog last week to chronicle the restaurant’s opening, which is scheduled for early August. Located on the building’s first floor, the place is simply referred to as “the restaurant,” but an O&B spokesperson says a name has been chosen and will be announced later.

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The Dish

Opening

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The latest on Susur Lee’s new restaurant: a name, a hallway and more

After weeks of speculation, we can finally report that Susur Lee’s new restaurant—the one opening in the same space as the original Susur and the short-lived Madeline’s—will be called Lee Lounge. The name may not earn five stars for creativity, but from what we hear, it is less about charting new territory and more about Toronto’s Asian sensation returning to his eastern roots.

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The Dish

Opening

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Just Opened: Marben trades in the onyx for oh-so-popular reclaimed wood

Carl Heinrich with a companion in the newly redesigned Marben (All images: Karon Liu)

Splendido did it, then Centro, then Brassaii, and now Marben. Sure, they’ve all been renovated, but more specifically, they’ve all received make-unders.

Back in March, Marben auctioned off bits and pieces of its former self, including the famous glowing onyx bar, in order to make way for understated pieces, vintage fixtures and reclaimed wood. General manager Sarah Evans says the Wellington West restaurant’s overhaul was meant to lighten up the place and make it known for its food rather than its scene (Brassaii cited similar urges). Still, with the restaurant open until 2 a.m. every day and Bavette—a separate downstairs party space—set to open at the end of the month, Marben isn’t retiring from the revelry. “The city needs a rowdy restaurant,” says Evans.

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