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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Best of the City 2011: The city’s most interesting dishes, places to eat them and, yes, hot sauce

Best of the City: Dining

(Image: Christopher Stevenson)

Baguette Pasta Fad Hot Sauce Lobster reinvented Carnivore cure Roast chicken Devilled eggs Patio for dessert

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The Informer

The Harrowing Present

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Jewel-like bugs could destroy Toronto’s ash trees this summer

Emerald ash borer: Charlie Sheen’s not the only destructive force coming to Toronto (Image: USDA)

Toronto may have narrowly escaped snowpocalypse this winter, but the city is now facing a summer threat: an invasion of the city’s ash trees by the emerald ash borer beetle (or, if you prefer, “ashpocalypse”). According to OpenFile, the pretty penny-sized bugs have been devastating trees in southwestern Ontario for a while now and made their way to Toronto in 2007—flourishing mostly among the concentrations of ash trees in the northern and eastern parts of the city. So is ashpocalypse as over-hyped as snowpocalypse? Toronto’s Parks and Environment Committee doesn’t think so; it recommended the city set aside $1.139 million to deal with the infestation, a proposal that’s being debated by city council today. 

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The Dish

Opening

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Just Opened: Camp 4, the Ossington alternative

Turn off your bright lights: Camp 4 (Image: Jon Sufrin)

When the Ossington strip is too packed to go bar-hopping (or even to open new bars), it’s time to spread the party elsewhere. For the owners of Camp 4—named after a rock-climbing base camp at Yosemite—that means Dundas West: close enough to still be part of the Ossington scene, but far enough away to give hipsters some breathing room.

Camp 4 is a bar in transition as it tries to accomplish the not-so-small task of differentiating itself from such nearby hot spots as the Communist’s Daughter and the Dakota Tavern. An ardent dedication to simplicity permeates, right down to the cocktail menu. Patrons can sip three takes on the old-fashioned (bourbon, rum or tequila, $13), while the whiskey-heavy liquor selection is refreshingly free of anything fluorescent. “There’s not going to be any Hpnotiq,” says co-owner Joseph Tanner. “No blue drinks.”

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The Goods

Weddings

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Ask the expert: a caterer’s dos and don’ts for the big day

Arpi Magyar became a culinary star in the kitchen at Splendido, and now his catering company, Couture Cuisine and Event Artistry, delights palates at more than 150 weddings a year. His dos and don’ts for the big day.

Photograph by Vanessa Heins

How much of the wedding budget should be for food and booze?
About 60 per cent of a wedding budget should be devoted to the food, booze, staffing and rentals. But I never know what they’re spending on everything else—a bride can spend $10,000 on a dress.

Where should couples splurge?
Most people should spend an extra $500 to $600 on better wine. It makes all the difference, and it’s only the equivalent of two flower arrangements.

Where should they save their money?
Don’t serve wedding cake as dessert—it never looks good on the plate, and most of them aren’t that tasty. Get a small, symbolic cake and serve a plated dessert. My favourite thing to do is an assortment of samples: a crème brûlée in an espresso cup, maybe a miniature molten chocolate cake, and a quenelle of raspberry sorbet.

Has the recession changed the way people cater weddings?
For sure. Fewer cheese plates. They’re a luxury item—at the end of the night, after the coffee and dessert—and at $9 a person, that can mean spending thousands of dollars just on cheese. People are also shying away from more expensive main courses. I’ve done fewer veal chops this year and a lot more poultry. Playing it safe with beef, chicken or salmon is always smart.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: Solo Sushi Bekkan

After the excellent donburi bowls at this tiny Yonge and College spot, we may never go back to the bento box

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The Dish

Culinary Curiosities

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Six Ontario delicacies being served at the Olympics Pavilion

Peanut brittle from Sudbury's Sinfully Deelicious (Photo via sinfullydeelicious.com)

It’s no secret that corporate sponsorship is one of the most competitive sports at the Games, but a few independent brewers, bakers and farmers made the cut at the Ontario House in the Olympics Pavilion. Alongside the Coke, Minute Maid and Timothy’s coffee, there’s enough Ontario nosh to satisfy any locavore.

Beau’s All Natural Brewing Company: Lug Tread Ale
Based in eastern Ontario, Beau’s is more familiar to residents of Ottawa and Kingston—that is, until the family brewery made it into Ontario House. Its Lug Tread Ale, a lager-ale mix, is being served on tap and in a beer–and–Balderson cheddar soup.

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Q&A: legendary chef Thomas Keller on his culinary empire

thomaskeller

Thomas Keller at his first Toronto appearance (Photo by Renée Suen)

A crowd of 450 (including top Toronto chefs Ted Corrado, Mark McEwan, Bonnie Stern and Donna Dooher) gathered at the Toronto Reference Library on Monday night to hear from Thomas Keller, who was in town to promote his new cookbook, Ad Hoc at Home. In the book, Keller, the only American chef to receive Michelin stars for two restaurants (The French Laundry, Per Se) at once, reveals recipes from Ad Hoc, his restaurant in Yountville, California, which serves a different prix-fixe menu every night. We wrangled some alone time with the chef to talk about his culinary empire.

It’s your first time in Toronto. Will you be exploring much of its culinary scene?
Unfortunately, I got in late last night and am leaving early tomorrow morning, so I won’t really get to see much this time. The one restaurant that is on my list is The Black Hoof, which I heard from a friend is very good.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week

MatagaliTHUMBIn our latest installment of the Weekly Lunch Pick, we visit Matagali. The downtown favourite offers two affordable lunch menus—one Indian, one Thai. Trust us; the dual identity is more charming than it sounds.

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See past Weekly Lunch Picks >>

The Dish

Read All About It

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Black Death-plagued tomatoes in Ontario, run a restaurant on Facebook, Alain Ducasse loves leftovers

• Ontario cheesemakers have taken home top honours at the American Cheese Society Awards, considered the “Superbowl of cheese.” Two Prince Edward County dairies, Fifth Town and Black River, won three ribbons, including first place for an aged goat’s milk cheese called Lighthall Tomme, named after the dairy owner’s mother-in-law. Finally, an answer to the age-old question: “What’s a girl gotta do to get a natural rind goat’s milk cheese named after her?” [Toronto Star]

• The rainy summer hasn’t just sucked for cottagers—it’s been bad for tomatoes, too. Many plants in the province have developed a fungus that flourishes in soggy fields. The blight, known as the Black Death, the same one that caused the Irish potato famine, has made tomatoes scarce across the province. [Globe and Mail]

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons Opening Soon

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State of the Union: Teo Paul talks about opening his Ossington restaurant

Come together: after nearly a year of delays, Union opens on Ossington Avenue (Photo by Davida Aronovitch)

Come together: after nearly a year of delays, Union opens on Ossington Avenue (Photo by Davida Aronovitch)

Inside Ossington Avenue’s long-awaited Union restaurant, diners find a Parisian oasis. The room smells of fresh baguettes, and Gilles Vigneault’s “Champs Élysées” floats over fin de siècle accents and a brasserie-style horseshoe bar. A look at this soothing atmosphere reveals nothing of the struggle chef-owner Teo Paul had in putting it all together, though readers of his Opening Soon blog, hosted here on torontolife.com, know better.

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The Dish

Opening

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Splendido re-opens with lower prices and less champagne

Champagne is out and cocktails are in at the newly made-over Splendido, which opened Tuesday for dinner. “Everything but the pea soup has changed,” says co-owner Carlo Cattalo, who recently bought the Harbord Street mainstay along with chef Victor Barry. The top-notch service will also remain, despite dramatically different decor, prices and menu.

The first thing regulars noticed were the chipper sky blue walls (we also spotted trendy new high-top tables and swanky lights at the bar), but the real shock likely came at the end of the meal. The bills are now about half of what they used to be.

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The Dish

Read All About It

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Viagra in energy drinks, Tim Hortons expands in NYC, man dies in chocolate vat

chocolate_heart

Chocolate, the silent killer (Photo by Daniel Catt)

• A 29-year-old man died Wednesday after falling into a vat of chocolate at a New Jersey candy factory. Not the most dignified way to go, but definitely not the worst. [Huffington Post]

• Oscar Mayer III has passed away at 95. (No, we didn’t know there really was an Oscar Mayer either, let alone three of them.) In his honour, the Chicago Tribune has compiled a list of other notable food products named after people, real and fake. Biggest surprise? There really was a Chef Boyardee. [Chicago Tribune]

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch

lunchpickjun4This week, our lunch pick is a calming Japanese restaurant that caters to Bay Streeters and casual diners alike. The deal? A four-course midday menu that’s worth loosening the belt for (in more ways than one).

Find out where>>

The Dish

Restauran-TO

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The InterContinental’s SkyLounge patio is now open (and serving a recession-busting grill menu)

burgers

Hot off the grill: steak burgers, chorizo hotdogs and pulled pork sammies (Photo by Karon Liu)

When the publicist said the biggest name who had RSVP’d for the InterContinental’s SkyLounge patio opening last night was Rick Campenelli, we expected it to be a long evening—especially when said ET Canada host failed to show up.

No matter. The shindig gave us (along with a bevy of networking industry types and unnaturally tanned, unnaturally blonde recession/fashion/style-istas) the opportunity to sample the TIFF hotspot’s new recession-friendly Thursday grill menu.

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Opening Soon

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Almost

The interior on Union, May 1, 2009

The interior of Union, May 1, 2009 (Photo by Teo Paul)

We were hoping to be open by May 5, at the latest, but the usual happened. One guy held up another guy from finishing his job, so yet another guy has to wait for that guy to finish so he can get done what he has to get done—and then everyone needs more money. It drags on and on. I don’t recommend gutting a place and trying to build a restaurant from rubble and dirt. Who knew such a sweet little spot could demand so much? It’s been tough to hold on to the spark that shot me into this thing when it feels like it’s just spitting me out. It bangs up your faith because you start thinking it’s you that’s making it take so damn long. It’s lonesome waiting for something to begin. You’re out in the wind with just self-doubt and a bunch of expectations to keep you company.

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