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The Hype

TIFF Talk

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At A Dangerous Method’s party at Soho House, A-list celebrities outnumbered the common folk

Ryan Gosling is with this guy (Dave Matthews) (Image: Soho House)

The sheer abundance of A-listers at A Dangerous Method’s party at Soho House put celeb gossip mongers on overload, and by 2:30 a.m., the party was still going strong, making those working the event wish George Clooney would just go back to his hotel already so the rest of us could call it a night. Who we spotted, who they hung out with and what we overheard after the jump (plus pictures, lots of pictures).

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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Midtown’s Lai Toh Heen to close in September 

Metropolitan Hotels put out a press release yesterday afternoon announcing that Lai Toh Heen, the cheaper Davisville cousin of downtown’s acclaimed dim sum temple Lai Wah Heen, will be closing for good on Sept. 18 of this year. “Lai Toh Heen has seen many successes in the past five years and now it’s time to take what we’ve learned and apply this culinary knowledge to our other restaurants,” said Metropolitan president Henry Wu in the release. No word yet on what might replace the midtown favourite.

The Dish

De-licious

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11 best bets for Summerlicious 2011: our chief critic Chris Nuttall-Smith makes his picks

The imported Neapolitan pizza oven at Fabbrica (Image: Karon Liu)

Now in its ninth season, the city-run ’Licious phenomenon (there are both summer and winter incarnations, in case you’ve been living under a pizza stone all this time) shows no signs of tiring, even if every year it seems to enrage more and more curmudgeonly downtown diners who don’t much like sharing their favorite restaurants with the plebes. Summerlicious succeeds precisely because it makes inaccessible restaurants accessible, even if it’s only for two weeks each July. The big list (there are 150 participating restaurants this year) will never include the hottest, newest, most interesting restaurants in the city—those places don’t typically need the help. It typically does include more than its share of dogs. But there are plenty of places in between: proven, well-run, inviting rooms with committed kitchens. We’ve picked a few of the best.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Good Stuff Cheap: nine of the city’s best foods for under $6

A few bucks won’t fulfill your caviar dreams—if it does, you need to dream bigger—but it’s possible to taste the best of the city’s food for next to nothing

Inventively flavoured macaroons are perfectly pillowy treats worthy of a patisserie in Saint-Germain-des-Près. $2.10 each. Nadege, 780 Queen St. W., 416-368-2009.


Coleslaw delivers creamy crunch with a kick (even better as a topping on the pulled pork sandwich). $4. The Stockyards, 699 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-658-9666.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: Lai Wah Heen

This legendary haute Chinese kitchen delivers a full—and fully delicious—dim sum experience in less than an hour

Seafood dumplings and cream tarts

The place: Perched on the second floor of the Metropolitan Hotel, Lai Wah Heen has long been Toronto’s go-to spot for haute contemporary Chinese dining. A maple-panelled room provides privacy for VIPs, but the main room has its own austere calm, despite the lunch rush.

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The Dish

Bottoms Up

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Myth-busting study reveals that western wine can actually taste good with Chinese food

Cast pearls before wine: how to pair up when it comes to Chinese cuisine (Photo by Simon Law)

Cast pearls before wine: how to pair up when it comes to Chinese cuisine (Photo by Simon Law)

Drinking wine with Chinese food has always been a bit like wearing Kanye West shutter shades: more about fashion than function, yet still somehow missing the mark. That’s all about to change, though, thanks to a new study put together by Toronto wine expert Tony Aspler and New York master sommelier Roger Dagorn. The pair methodically paired up Cantonese dishes with western vino and delivered a thorough and objective (there was no sponsorship from wine producers) pairing guide that offers more than a few surprises.

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Decoding the real and imagined T.O. restaurants in Shinan Govani’s new novel

boldfacenamesAs the social columnist for The National Post, it is practically part of Shinan Govani’s job description to eat out in Toronto. No wonder, then, that in his debut novel, Boldface Names, there are plenty of dishes served along with the dishing. Govani calls the book a “tell-some,” in which Ravi—a fictional gossip columnist for, ahem, The National Mirror—navigates the semi-imaginary Toronto “of the rich, the famous and the wicked.” This includes the restaurants, of course, and some of the locales may seem very familiar to local foodies and gadflies. We’ve pulled back the thin veil and created this crib sheet to the eating establishments of Boldface Names.

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The Dish

Culinary Curiosities

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Food Wars: Montreal 14, Toronto 1

We want Terrence Henry’s job. The Atlantic has asked him to explore North America in search of our continent’s best farmers, brewers, butchers and chefs. The goal is to create a map of the most innovative artisanal food around—not the fussy five-star stuff that usually gets reviewed. While we support his mission, we were surprised to see that Henry’s Google map presently lists only one stop in Toronto (at Lai Wah Heen). Once we compared that to his Montreal itinerary—14 planned tastings!—our surprise turned to competitiveness. We think no North American culinary tour would be complete without sampling Ruth Klahsen’s chèvre, say, or Colborne Lane’s liquid nitrogen ice cream. Or Ryan Donovan’s charcuterie from Cowbell. Or the fukiyose platter at Sushi Kaji. Or Marc Thuet’s bread. Or the bold chocolate concoctions at Xococava.

Oh, the list goes on. We encourage readers to post their favourite local innovations, too, both here and on The Atlantic’s site. After all, he said he was looking for suggestions.

The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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1,000 Tastes takes over Yorkville

Executive chef Peter George from 360 Restaurant at the CN Tower stunned crowds with the size of his giant cocktail shrimp.

While many foodies went to Yorkville’s Toronto Taste last weekend, others gathered at Harbourfront for 1,000 Tastes of Toronto. Part of the Luminato festival, this event also showcased many of the city’s top restaurants, each offering gourmet street food at $5 a pop. We caught up with some of the chefs and restaurateurs who helped add spice and flavour to Toronto’s multicultural milieu, one plate at a time.

The Dish

Read All About It

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Maybe 36 hours is not enough time to experience Toronto

The old grey lady looks northward (Photo by Peter Dutton)

The old grey lady looks northward (Photo by Peter Dutton)

This past Sunday, Toronto was the subject of The New York Times’ 36 Hours column—this is Hogtown’s second treatment in the series, in which a New York writer describes a weekend visit. Even though we hate to admit it, we lean in a little closer when the old grey lady whispers our city’s name. The eating and drinking establishments mentioned include El Convento Rico, The Communist’s Daughter, Sweaty Betty’s, Lai Wah Heen and—wait for it—College Street Bar. A paltry sample, but seeing as writer Denny Lee was here only for a weekend, we can’t be too hard on him. Perhaps he likes to party like it’s 2007. And to do so south of Bloor.

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