Looking out onto Church Street from inside Smith (Image: Daniel Barna)

Smith may be one of the less Google-able of Toronto’s new restaurants, but owner Renda Abdo is counting on sharp design and a menu of updated takes on comfort food to lure in the masses. “Smith is for anybody that enjoys good food, good music and good atmosphere,” the Wish and Black Skirt boss says of the newly opened three-level restaurant, which took over the space formerly occupied by Straight, one of the gay village’s more popular clubs. But just because it’s a restaurant, don’t expect things to go quiet at night.

Though more focused on dining than its predecessor, Abdo insists that Smith—which features a DJ booth and a dance floor on the third level—is still likely to transform into an all-out rager spot, if that’s what guests want: “We’re not interested in confining it to a label. We’re prepared to stay open until four or five in the morning if people want to continue their night.” It’s a see-what-happens attitude that’s par for the course in the teeming Church Wellesley Village, though Abdo is intent on appealing to the neighbourhood’s burgeoning community of people who “can appreciate detail and well executed design”—not just partiers.

The design was a collaborative effort between Abdo, partner Shanker Bhardwaj and the team at Commute Home (Nyood, Colborne Lane, Briscola). The result combines homey antiques and mismatched china with polished concrete floors, white exposed brick and a dramatic light fixture made of metal rods arranged like twigs. Along one wall, there’s a large installation that looks like some kind of robotic circuitry.

Executive chef Peter McKnight (who also worked with Abdo at Wish) focuses on familiar regional American cuisine; whimsical dishes inspired by his childhood, like boneless fried chicken with collard greens and ham gravy ($17) and pan-seared halibut in a beetroot beurre blanc ($26) should attract seasoned foodies and curious newbies alike. Other Toronto comfort standards, like a charcuterie board (market price) and a classic poutine ($6), are available for sharing. The menu, presented like a newspaper and designed by Toronto Life designer Tracy Ma), is set to change seasonally. And, of course, there will be brunch on weekends.

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Smith, 553 Church St., 416-926-2501, smithrestaurant.com

The Canadian Senate (Image: scazon)

Stephen Harper’s love affair with the unelected Senate—you know, the one he ran against in previous elections—gets more torrid with every passing week. This week brings the news that the Conservatives finally have an absolute majority in the Senate, after appointing two new men to the Red Chamber: Toronto pastor Don Meredith and former CFL commissioner Larry Smith.  According to the Globe and Mail, this is all part of the Conservative master plan to break into seat-rich urban territories.

[Meredith] is also a faithful Conservative, parachuting into Toronto Centre in a hopeless bid to prevent Bob Rae from winning the by-election that sent him to Parliament. By pushing aside a more socially liberal Tory hopeful, Mr. Meredith managed to drag the Conservative vote in the riding down to 12 per cent, behind even the Greens.

He did his cause no good by making potentially controversial statements in an interview with Toronto Xtra, a gay newspaper. Toronto’s gay village is within the riding.

“It’s the right of individuals to choose their orientation,” Mr. Meredith said in a January, 2008, interview. Homosexuality, especially among homosexuals, is seen as an orientation and not a choice.

So the Conservative master plan for the GTA involves anchoring their hopes to a man who thinks homosexuality is a choice, and who once finished behind the Greens. While Toronto’s politics have been kind of topsy-turvy lately, somehow we have a hard time seeing the genius here. Unless, of course, the Conservatives think that the late-hour homophobia that we saw during the mayoral election was what clinched it for Rob Ford—which, given his margin of victory, would also be stupid.

The whole idea of the Tories planning for a majority—earlier this week, they leaked a wish list of 190 seats they think are in play for the next election—reminds us of nothing so much as the gloating Liberals were doing around 2003 about how legendary Paul Martin was going to be in the next election. It turned out that the electorate had other ideas.

• Tories hope anti-gang fighter’s appointment to Senate will pay dividends [Globe and Mail]
• Larry Smith, Don Meredith named to Senate [Toronto Star]
• Tories prepare to mount full offensive in Toronto ridings in next election [The Hill Times]

Sukiyaki at Tokyo Grill (Image: Renée Suen)

Turns out Guu isn’t the only place to go for Japanese comfort food. Homesick expats and Japanophiles often turn to the belly-warming sukiyaki ($12) at Tokyo Grill, an unassuming (even garish) hole in the wall near the gay village. The sumo-sized cast-iron pot comes packed with shirataki noodles, sautéed bean sprouts, spinach and sweet onions, topped off with a poached egg, thin slices of beef and creamy soft tofu. The soy-mirin broth hasn’t been over-sugared for Western tastes; it’s semi-sweet and sublimely piqued with a touch of shichimi togarashi seasoning. Diners who sit in are rewarded with a complimentary bowl of miso soup that’s showered with scallions, wakame and tofu cubes.
The cost: $19 per person, including tax, tip, an upgrade to brown rice ($1) and tea ($1). Cash only.
The time: 31 minutes.
Tokyo Grill, 582 Yonge St. (at Wellesley), 416-968-7054.

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Carman's Dining Club at 26 Alexander Street (Image: Google)

Arthur Carman, the renowned proprietor of Carman’s Dining Club, near Maple Leaf Gardens, passed away at his home Tuesday. He was 84.

Born Athanasios Karamanos in Greece, Carman and his storied namesake steak house once represented the epitome of fine dining in Toronto. Carman’s opened in 1959, with clientele that included Al Green, Nat King Cole, Lorne Greene and Sammy Davis Jr. Diners still reminisce about the smell of garlic in the air and the nostalgic decor that stood out in a neighbourhood that evolved from quiet residences in the Leafs’ backyard to a thriving gay village dotted with high-rises. The restaurant closed last year just as it celebrated its 50th year in operation.

A memorial site has been set up where people can write messages of condolence. Among the people who’ve contributed is George Bigliardi, owner of yet another eponymous restaurant just blocks away from Carman’s (it closed last year). He writes:

I was saddened to learn about the passing of my friend Mr. Carmen. Over the years I have always admired his courage and the achievement of building his restaurant into a Toronto institution. My restaurant was located on Church Street around the corner, and sometimes Mr. Carmen would drop by later in the evening and we would spend and hour or two in enjoyable conversation. I always believed that he did not receive the recognition he deserved for his considerable contribution to Toronto and the hospitality business. He was a great person, and he will be missed. Our thoughts and prayers are with you.

Arthur Carman is survived by his wife, Kathleen, as well as his extended family.

• In Memory of Athanasios Karamanos

Sit and sip: Boutique Bar's happy-hour crowd takes over the patio (Image: Boutique Bar)

For a year and a half, French competitive mixologist Julien Salomone and his wife, Haligonian Devon Salomone, combed the city for a quaint space to open their own cocktail bar. The search ended when they found Veda‘s old space on Church Street: right in the heart of the gay village and minutes away from their house. Boutique Bar‘s first reveal took place last month during Pride, but is now officially open for business, bringing the strip a new patio space and a gamut of deluxe cocktails.

With 12 years of mixology experience, the Toulon-born Salomone is a welcome figure to Toronto’s cocktail craze. Like many other haute cocktail spots, Boutique Bar uses house-made syrups and  fresh juices, but sets itself apart when it comes to price points: most cocktails are around $8. “We wanted to make sure it was attainable for everyone and give a good product,” said Devon.

The pewter-coloured walls and dark decor have a winter feel to them, but the deck-like patio and fruity drinks are 100 per cent summer. The immensely popular watermelon martinis ($10) are made with fresh juice, cranberry gin and squeezed lemons. The Ginger ($8) is also a hit: vodka, lemon juice, Julien’s signature ginger and chili pepper syrup and ginger ale. Richer drinks include the cabane à sucre ($8)—a version of Julien’s signature combination of maple sugar, lime juice, ginger ale and rye—and the Belvedere truffle ($10), which mixes vodka, Frangelico, crème de cacao and Nutella cubes.

Despite only being open a few weeks, Boutique Bar can already claim a loyal clientele, with the after-work crowd packing the joint to take advantage of the happy hour (5 to 9 p.m.) special of two-ounce martinis for $6. “Everybody knows it now,” said Julien. “Most of our customers are already regulars.”

Boutique Bar, 506 Church St., M-Su 5-2 a.m., 647-705-0006.

Available at shoppridetoronto.com for $20.

Crews and Tango in its old incarnation (Image: Google)

It’s been a year since Crews and Tango, the Village main drag’s main drag bar, shuttered. Over that time, the neighbourhood experienced a downward spiral as the area’s stores and restaurants closed left and right: Carman’s, American Apparel, Bigliardi’s, Lettieri, Zelda’s, Statlers, Pita Pen, Il Fornello, etc. But tonight, the former hot spot will welcome its 20-something clientele once again—part of a local turnaround that is making “there goes the gaybourhood” jokes seem laughably premature.

“The reopening of Crews and Tango is exciting, but it’s not going to be like the old Crews and Tango,” says co-owner Paras Prashad. “We’re keeping the same feel to it, but we brought the place up to code, gave it a new coat of paint, added new lights, a new bar and a new stage.”

Prashad took over the place with his partner, Michael Ramawad, on New Year’s Day. The two have been coming to Crews for years, so Prashad says there’s some emotional attachment to it, and he hopes that it’ll get people coming back to the Village and infuse some pre-Pride hype. “I think with Crews and Tango being such an institution, it’ll mean more people will come to the Village, and other businesses will benefit, as well, which in turn benefits us.”

Other goals for the new Crews are to introduce a tapas menu—“restaurant” has been added to the name—and to attract a wider audience. Crews will also host monthly multicultural events and afternoon games for people who don’t want to stay up until the wee hours.

Crews and Tango opens tonight at 6 p.m.

The beat goes on: Church Street ignores terminal prognosis (Image: Neal Jennings)

Last year was a rough one for the gaybourhood. Zelda’s, Bigliardi’s, Pita Pen, Il Fornello, Carman’s, Lettieri, Statlers and Crews and Tango all shut down, leaving the Post and the Star to speculate that the Village was on its last legs. Well, according to an overstatement in Xtra (“Overwhelming prosperity grips neighbourhood in midst of death throes”), the Great Flame-Out of ’09 is over, and the district is quickly turning around. Maple Leaf Gardens will be reopening, the iconic Church Street Diner has expanded, Chic-Ko-Roo has taken Il Fornello’s old spot, and a liquor licence application has just appeared in the window of Crews and Tango. There’s still no word on the official reopening date of Crews (it has seemed to be on the verge of reopening every month since last summer), but the bar was accepting résumés last week. We’re sure there’s a diva reinvention metaphor in this story, but couldn’t decide which was more apt: Whitney or Madonna. Only time will tell.

• Businesses rush to Church Wellesley Village [Xtra]

Carman's Dining Club, 1959-2009 (Photo courtesy of Google)

Arthur Carman’s storied and troubled steak house on Alexander Street went into hibernation this summer, never to wake up. This makes the restaurant—credited with introducing Toronto to garlic bread—the latest Village establishment to disappear in recent months (the list also includes Crews and Tango, Bigliardi’s, Il Fornello and Zelda’s).

When we called the restaurant this week, we were greeted with this voice mail message:

This year, Carman celebrated his 50th anniversary in the one and same location. He has decided he will not be reopening after 50 years and thought it was time to say goodbye and to say thank you this fantastically beautiful country of Canada. What he accomplished here he could not have accomplished in the country of his birth at that time. Thank you to the countless number of people who made this possible. Peace begins at home, Carman.

It is a truly sad day those loyal to the landmark restaurant. Toronto Life food writer James Chatto documents eating at the 19th-century mansion in his 2000 memoir The Man Who Ate Toronto, which includes a brief bio of Carman (born Athanasios Karamanos), who immigrated from Greece in the ’50s. Although Chatto describes the restaurant as one of the best in Toronto, recent on-line reviews suggest that the sizzle had gone from the steak house: “Sad to see this formerly packed spot deteriorate so dramatically,” wrote a Chowhounder in 2008. “Once the notoriously garlicky purveyor of hospitality, now it is insipid, unsophisticated and expensive.”

The celebrity clientele once featured on the restaurant’s menu and Web site (no longer functional) included Al Green, Nat King Cole, Lorne Greene and Sammy Davis Jr., a sign that this was a boys’ club hangout for the real Don Drapers, not his modern-day fans. (Sara Waxman once wrote about being the only woman in the place.) The decor, as most people described it, was dark, medieval and, as another amateur reviewer writes, “something out of a vampire movie.”

In the end, 50 years is many lifetimes in the restaurant industry—especially in Toronto. We hope that Carman’s will be remembered as the joyful, high-end steak house with the perpetual aroma of garlic, rather than the relic that was left behind during its neighbourhood’s gentrification.

At steak: Church Street loses its longtime resident, Bigliardi's (Photo by Jon Sufrin)

Ever since the news broke that George Bigliardi’s Steak and Seafood Restaurant is closing on September 26, the long-standing Church Street spot has been packed every night. Yet this is not just the usual phenomenon of regular customers coming by to bid the place farewell; George Bigliardi, the 73-year-old owner, says he is witnessing an influx of customers he’s never seen before. “Last night we had two people that had never been here before,” he says. “That is most unusual.”

Asked what has kept regulars returning for the past 32 years, Bigliardi cites his unique brand of customer service instead of the grilled rack of lamb or bacon-wrapped filet mignon. He sees his patrons “as family,” and the feeling seems to be mutual. Indeed, he tells us many customers were driven to tears at news of the restaurant’s closing. “When they come to see me, their martini is already on the table. For most of our customers, we remember what they drink.”

Loyal staff members, too, have remained for decades at a time. The current maître d’ has been at Bigliardi’s for 22 years; a previous chef, and even a dishwasher, stuck around for nearly as long.

Still, it has been tough going for Bigliardi’s over the past 10 years, especially as the environment around the restaurant has evolved. With the closing of Maple Leaf Gardens and a large advertising firm across the street, coupled with the relocation of CBC, business has slowly grown thin. The recession didn’t help either, and though the restaurant has weathered tough economic times before, Bigliardi (who works 14 hours a day, six or seven days a week) says it’s time for a break.

“It’s very hard on my family,” he says of his intense work ethic. “I was very lucky [my wife] was able to put up with me.”

So what can dedicated denizens expect to replace the venue? Certainly nothing with the character of a steakhouse that’s barely changed its decor since it opened. One of the restaurant’s two rooms will likely become a Pizzaiolo, the soon-to-be-ubiquitous purveyor of pizza, while the fate of the other room is yet unclear.

After taking some much needed time off, the restaurateur—who has hosted the likes of Frank Sinatra, Anthony Quinn and Bette Midler, and who once altered the Pope’s route through Toronto so he could get a photo for his mother—is not averse to the thought of opening a new, albeit less central, restaurant. Says Bigliardi, “We’ll probably resurface in a much smaller place, more intimate.”

1. A New Day Has Come: brunch and lunch at Peartree
This homey brunch spot in Cabbagetown is close enough to the action without having to hear the drag queens’ morning rehearsals. Weekend brunch kicks off at 10 a.m., making this an excellent pre-parade destination. The eggs benedict dishes (classic, Florentine or Benjamin, $9), are among the joint’s most popular.
507 Parliament St. (at Aberdeen Ave.), 416-926-8190, peartree.sites.toronto.com.

2. We Be Burnin’: quick refuel at Bulldog Coffee
Skip the line at the Church Street Starbucks in favour of some quality espresso. Just south of the Pride chaos is this small café where the wisecracking staffers are known for their latte art. Specialties like The Bull Dog (a latte-cappuccino hybrid) are worth the extra walk. There’s also a selection of tempting baked goods behind the counter.
89 Granby St. (at Church St.), 416-606-2275, bulldogtoronto.com.

3. Careless Whispers: dinner for two at Grace
Take a break from the ubiquitous party anthems and visit the romantic Grace. It’s a trek but the soothing ambiance of the farmhouse-chic space, makes the detour well worth it. The small but enticing menu consists of hearty home favourites like steak and Guinness pot pie ($18), braised beef cheeks ($25) and a tagliatelle carbonara ($16). Afterwards, check out some late-night dessert spots.
503 College St. (at Palmerston Ave.), 416-944-8884, gracerestaurant.ca.

4. A Public Affair: group dinner at Pearl Harbourfront Restaurant
Those dining with friends and family should head to what locals call “The Pink Pearl” where there are plenty of big, round tables to accommodate everyone. Dim sum is offered in the afternoon (with a beautiful view of the lake), while traditional à la carte and set menus are available in the evening. On weekends, reservations are strongly encouraged.
207 Queens Quay W. (at York St.), 416-203-1233, pearlharbourfront.ca.

5. I’m Still Standing: 4 a.m. breakfast at Fran’s Restaurant
After an all-night session on the dance floor, it’s best to head to Fran’s, the 24-hour greasy spoon with two locations: one next to Massey Hall, the other across from the College subway station. There’s a big menu but the best deal is the all-day, big breakfast platter: sausage, eggs, bacon, toast and pancakes for $10.
20 College St. (at Yonge), 416-923-9867, and 200 Victoria St. (at Shuter St.), 416-304-0085, fransrestaurant.com.

6. One Night in Bangkok: cheap eats at Salad King
Generous bowls of authentic curries and stir-fried noodles are the main event at this popular, please-’em-all Thai resto. Dine in or take advantage of the rapid take-out.
335 Yonge St. (at Dundas St. W.), 416-971-7041. saladking.com.

7. Four Minutes: MBCo
In essence, this is a breakfast and lunch bar. Patrons line up, point to what they want and wait as it’s plated. An excellent spot for grabbing mobile meals on parade day.
100 Bloor St. W. (at Bellair St.), 416-961-6226. mbco.ca.

8. It’s Oh So Quiet: avoiding the crowds at Ethiopian House
Just far enough off Yonge Street to feel tucked away, this unassuming restaurant offers total immersion in Ethiopian cuisine.
4 Irwin Ave. (at Yonge), 416-923-5438. ethiopianhouse.com.

9. Turning Japanese: sashimi at Japango
A quick glance at the menu offers no hint that this Japanese restaurant stands shoulders above the glut of indistinguishable sushi joints in Toronto‚—but it does. Try the one-of-a-kind oyster shooter and taste the difference.
122 Elizabeth St. (at Dundas St. W.), 416-599-5557.

10. That’s Amore: when in Rome at Terroni Adelaide
Terroni brings its mod sensibility into the carved and coffered neo-classical chambers of the converted York County Courthouse, built in 1851. Reservations are rarely taken, but the pizza and pasta selection more than make up for any wait time.
57a Adelaide St. E. (at Toronto St.), 416-203-3093. terroni.ca.

11. In The Navy: Oysters at Starfish
While this spot is on the fringes of downtown’s culinary map, oyster lovers beat a path to its door.
100 Adelaide St. E. (at Jarvis St.), 416-366-7827, starfishoysterbed.com.

12. She Blinded Me With Science: Molecular gastronomy at Colborne Lane
The casual dining room denies Claudio Aprile’s food pomp and ceremony, though the sight of him pouring flavoured cream into liquid nitrogen to make fabulous ice cream tableside is a showstopper.
45 Colborne St. (at Church St.), 416-368-9009, colbornelane.com.

13. Glamorous Life: Yorkville break at Courtyard Café
Built in 1927 and fully rebuilt in ’99, the ancient-looking Windsor Arms serves up a dining experience (when not hosting upscale weddings) that rivals Toronto’s best. The ideal place to have tea after shopping at Holt’s.
18 St. Thomas St. (at Bloor St. W.), 416-971-9666, windsorarmshotel.com/dining.

The steak house and former club, where most mains are priced above $50, is a bit of an anomaly in its neighbourhood and on the Toronto dining scene. Carman’s golden age was back in the ’60s and ’70s—a heyday memorialized on the menus with grainy photos of Nat King Cole and Lorne Greene posing with then-youthful owner Arthur Carman (who, after 50 years, still runs the place). As a hard-working young chef, Arthur opened the restaurant at its current Alexander Street location in 1959. Accolades from local and American publications poured in. It was one of the few spots in the city that stayed open after theatre performances, attracting a late-night but sophisticated crowd. Toronto Life food writer James Chatto described his dinner as a “delicious, garlic-rubbed, charcoal-broiled strip loin” when he dined there in 1977.

Recently, though, customers’ reviews of the carnivorous cuisine have been mixed, and diners have headed elsewhere for their beef fix, leaving the Victorian-style steak house more a relic of better days amid an ever-changing neighbourhood. Here’s hoping the nostalgic steak house that survived for half a century can get its act together and reclaim some of its former glory when it reopens in the fall.

For night owls with sweet teeth (Photo by 3liz4)

Toronto sometimes seems short on late-night noshables, but some of the city’s restaurants serve dessert well into the wee hours. After the jump, our compendium of places that can satisfy a sweet tooth after 11 p.m.

Gladstone Hotel
Queen West crooners can pause from belting out Pat Benatar to bite into one of chef Marc Breton’s sweet specialties, all of which are served after hours. House favourites include the toasted marshmallow fudge brownie and the new, Archie-approved banana split. Sunday to Wednesday until 11 p.m., Thursday to Saturday 10 p.m.–1 a.m.
1214 Queen St. W. (at Gladstone Ave.), 416-531-4635, www.gladstonehotel.com.

The Roof Lounge
The perfect accompaniment to the Park Hyatt’s library-chic lounge and sweet view are the strawberry cheesecake and maple crème brûlée. Both are served until last call, at about 1 a.m.
4 Avenue Rd. (at Bloor St. W.), Park Hyatt, 416-324-1568, www.parktoronto.hyatt.com

Sicilian Sidewalk Café
For post-drinking fun along College Street, try such syrupy classics as crêpes and ice cream–topped waffles, which are served until around 2 a.m. most days (though the sprawling patio can stay packed until later on summer nights). If partiers are pausing before round two, such specialty coffees as the Café Francese—a scoop of vanilla ice cream with espresso and cocoa—make good fuel for the rematch.
712 College St. (at Montrose Ave.), 416-531-7755.

7 West
Serving dessert 24 hours a day, this downtown standby offers three kinds of chocolate layer cake, a chocolate-banana creation, and the much-adored dulce de leche cheesecake, for which the spot is known.
7 Charles St. W. (at Yonge St.), 416-928-9041, www.7westcafe.com.

I Feel Like Crepe
Sweetness at this west-end “creperie-lounge” is not limited to dessert. Such sugary martinis as the Tiramisu and Lollypop are served alongside crêpes, like the signature Margot (hazelnut and white chocolate spread with fruit and nuts). Friday and Saturday to 2 a.m., and until midnight on weekdays.
605 College St. (at Clinton St.), 416-832-5679, www.ifeellikecrepe.com.

Shanghai Cowgirl
West-end revellers can treat themselves to dessert until the last desperado falls at 4 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Selections feature Wanda’s Pie in the Sky apple crumble (best à la mode) and the homemade Jagermeister chocolate mousse. Sunday to Tuesday until 11 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday until midnight. (Summer hours coming into effect soon: Sunday and Monday until midnight, Tuesday to Thursday until 1 a.m.)
538 Queen St. W. (at Bathurst), 416-203-6623, www.shanghaicowgirl.com.

Hair of the Dog
Village-goers can hop over to this gastro-pub for sweets until 1 a.m. Thursday to Saturday. The selection of desserts varies, but the usual suspects are lemon-blueberry cheesecake, triple-chocolate mousse cake and berry crumble. Monday to Wednesday until midnight.
425 Church St. (at Wood St.), 416-964-2708, www.hairofthedogpub.ca.