(Image: Carlo Mendoza)

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By David Lawrason

(Image: Jack Dylan)

California wine has always had a certain easygoing appeal, and the region’s big-ticket bottles have been a staple in collectors’ cellars for the last three decades. In my opinion, however, they’ve also suffered from excess—they’re too expensive, too candy-coated, too oaky and too hot on the finish. I get angry when I taste a $300 Napa Valley icon wine and discover it barely deserves 90 points—the quality doesn’t match the price. But a new generation of California winemakers is breaking away from tradition and working with new blends and grape varieties. Regions like Mendocino County, the Sonoma Coast and Paso Robles, which typically live in the shadow of Napa and Sonoma, are producing wine that’s more refined, better balanced and much more affordable (in the $20 to $40 range). This improvement, combined with a strong Canadian dollar, has boosted sales at the LCBO’s Vintages stores, where, for the first time ever, California wines are outselling those from Italy and France. In 2010, they brought in $70.8 million, which is a 21.5 per cent increase from 2009 and accounts for a fifth of all Vintages sales. I recently tasted several dozen of these top sellers and picked the best of the bunch.

Beringer 2008 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$34.95 | Knights Valley | 90 points
This popular Beringer is down in price from two years ago. It has a ripe black cherry, mocha, herb and tobacco nose. It’s dense yet supple, with tannic grip on the finish, and it’s less ostentatious in the hands of winemaker Laurie Hook. Best 2013 to 2018. Vintages. LCBO 352583

Cline 2009 Ancient Vines Mourvèdre
$18.95 | Contra Costa Country | 88 points
The Cline family owns very old Rhône variety vineyards in this less famous Bay-area enclave east of Oakland. Their mourvèdre sports a deep purple colour and blueberry pie, clove, vanilla and white chocolate aromas. It’s fragrant and a bit sweet but balanced by firm acidity and fine tannin. Vintages. LCBO 66084

La Crema 2008 Pinot Noir
$29.95 | Sonoma Coast | 90 points
Pinot noir is increasingly being planted on the Sonoma Coast, an up-and-coming cool region. This example has a bright personality with vibrant cranberry-cherry fruit amid wood spice, smoke, cinnamon and herbs. It has jump on the palate, without being overly aggressive. Vintages. LCBO 719435

Big House 2009 White
$11 | California | 87 points
This delightful blend was originally conceived by Randall Grahm, who has been pushing against California’s cabernet-chardonnay axis
for years. A choir of nine different grapes, including the floral muscat, makes for a delicious summer sipper full of pineapple, banana and star anise, with a touch of sweetness. LCBO 173286

Grgich Hills 2009 Fumé Blanc
$29.95 | Napa Valley | 91 points
Grgich (now certified biodynamic) is a classic maker of Napa whites that maintains a European sense of restraint with this barrel-aged sauvignon blanc. It’s full-bodied, firm and dry, with a lifted, complex nose of dill, avocado, pear and citrus. Excellent length. The price is down from last year. Vintages. LCBO 346296

Napa Ridge 2007 Petite Sirah
$19.95 | Napa Valley | 91 points
Petite sirah is typically too edgy and masculine for a land of easy-drinking wine, but it’s been grown under the radar in California for years. This dense, black monster has a lifted, iodine-laden, meaty and peppery nose, with floral and blueberry notes. It’s firm, tannic and laced with fruit that powers to excellent length. Vintages. LCBO 213686

Bonterra 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
$19.95 | Mendocino County | 89 points
Bonterra is a leading organic producer in California. This one packs great complexity for $20, with clove spice, chocolate, vibrant blackcurrant and juniper notes. It’s full-bodied, dense and rugged, if not hugely concentrated. It’s young, so try aging it for a year or two. Vintages. LCBO 342428

J. Lohr 2009 Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon
$21.95 | Paso Robles | 89 points
An artful blend of 79 per cent cabernet, with just enough petite sirah (nine per cent) and petit verdot (five per cent) to soften cabernet’s green edges. It’s medium-weight, smooth and rich with ripe cherry, chocolate, tea and herbs. It exemplifies good winemaking. Best now to 2015. Vintages. LCBO 656561

Rodney Strong 2008 Chalk Hill Chardonnay
$22.95 | Sonoma County | 92 points
The opulence of California’s warm climate shines through in this chardonnay, while Sonoma’s cooler climate lends it taut minerality. It’s complex with nutty, smoky, orange, clove and vanilla aromas. Medium- to full-bodied yet anchored by firm acidity. A nicely made wine. Vintages. LCBO 275552

Scores: David Lawrason assigns scores on a 100-point scale. They reflect a wine’s overall quality. A rating of 95 to 100 is outstanding; 90 to 94 excellent; 85 to 89 very good; 80 to 84 good.

(Image: Alfred Ng)

We already knew we probably waste way more food than we should, but we didn’t know it was this bad. As the BBC reports, a recently released United Nations study has found that one billion tons of food is discarded across the globe every year, prompting food retailers to re-evaluate their practices. After the jump, five things we learned from the study.

1. The sheer numbers
Every year, 1.3 billion tons of food is wasted, including just over 200 pounds per person per year in North America or Europe (compared to only 11 to 24 pounds per person in sub-Saharan Africa and Asia).

2. Food waste ain’t food loss
The report distinguishes between loss and waste, the former referring to food that vanishes during the production and distribution process, while the latter is essentially those green beans still on our plate.

3. The UN hates bargains
We were shocked to read that “two-for-one” deals were scorned in the report. The reason? They lead consumers to buy more food than they will actually end up consuming.

4. Fruits and veggies are the biggest losers
Since it goes bad the fastest, produce is the most commonly wasted food—so next time we’ll be sure to finish all of our green beans. For humanity’s sake.

5. Rich people suck
See number one. Also, one of the more shocking findings was that rich countries waste 222 million tons of food per year—slightly less than the entire region of sub-Saharan Africa produces.

The study, which concludes that when it comes to food, consumers are better off buying local, was conducted by Captain Obvious the Swedish Institute for Food and Biotechnology in preparation for an upcoming international trade fair for food packagers being held in Germany later this month. Guy Fieri, consider this your second warning.

• One third of world’s food is wasted, says UN study [BBC News]

We prefer to pass the holiday season by eating our way through it and forcing loved ones to do the same. So we’ve come up with 13 inventive edible gifts (and not a mini-muffin basket in sight).

See our foodie gift guide now >>

See our other gift guides:

• 33 gifts under $30 >>

• 33 gifts under $100 >>

• 34 gifts over $100 >>

• 25 gifts you can buy on-line >>

What is the one thing that will always be in your fridge?
MT: Ketchup. No, no, don’t write that. B, what might it be?
BZ: A lot of people don’t know this, but he’s into sandwiches and really trashy food.
MT: Don’t say that. Fuck.
BZ: Sandwiches and ketchup. Loads of Reese’s peanut butter cups.

Do you keep those in the fridge?
BZ: No, they’re not allowed in the house because he eats them all.

What’s the most embarrassing thing in your fridge?
BZ: Cracker Barrel cheese.

Expiration dates: iron laws or just suggestions?
BZ: Suggestions. Our rule of thumb is, if it’s mouldy, then it’s gone.
MT: Well, no, not everything. Not cheese. We have unpasteurized cheese in the fridge, and you just scratch off the mould. Except Cracker Barrel, because there is no milk in that.

What do you do when good foods go bad?
BZ: We make tons of stews here.
MT: Biana is the king of stews. She has a Mexican pot.
BZ: I do. Sometimes vegetables are better when they’re a little bit old.

Tomatoes: to refrigerate or not to refrigerate?
MT: Tomatoes we do, because they get too ripe. Because you buy a ripe tomato.

Keep out of reach of sunlight (Image: Misserion)

Aside from being a painful reminder that one’s beer is practically tasteless, squeezing lime juice into a bottle of brew can apparently have some nasty physical side effects. Dr. Scott Flugman, a medical practitioner from New York state, writes in October’s issue of Archives of Dermatology that the chemicals in lime juice, when combined with ultraviolet-A rays from the sun, can produce skin lesions he calls “Mexican beer dermatitis.”

The condition has earned that particular nickname because Flugman has seen it occur in patients who “were exposed to lime after drinking a popular Mexican beer.” Presumably, they missed the bottle, squirted lime juice onto their skin and then hung out in the sun. It’s layman’s lingo for phytophotodermatitis—a skin condition characterized by brown marks, redness or blisters. Those who come into contact with giant hogweed suffer something similar.

For those looking to stay safe, the answer seems simple enough: either start drinking better beer, worse beer or start honing those lime juice–aiming skills.

• Because you don’t have enough worries: Mexican Beer Dermatitis [Toronto Star]

The Oh Golly Molly! looks suspiciously like a regular martini (Image: James Mulholland)

With September looming, the annual swarm of boozers and cruisers is about to descend upon our city. No, not incoming U of T students—the Toronto International Film Festival is nigh. The Hazelton Hotel played host to the first of many TIFF events (and our first celeb sighting of the season—Brandon Walsh, oops, Jason Priestley, hanging in the lobby, talking about a visit to the Astral Media studios), with official sponsor Skyy vodka unveiling its annual celebrity-themed cocktails. In years past, such Canucks as Don McKellar, Ellen Page and Lisa Ray have been immortalized in alcohol. Here, the cocktails a lucky few will be sipping on the party circuit.

The Sweet Tart Tricia, named for Canadian model turned actress Tricia Helfer (or, as Battlestar Galactica fans will forever know her, Six), who’s starring in A Beginner’s Guide to Endings. Lemonade, lemon grass syrup and soda water are garnished with a stalk of lemon grass in this subtly sweet drink.

The Berry Baruchel, for Jay Baruchel—he’ll be plugging Good Neighbours this festival. Lemon juice, elderflower cordial and blueberry juice are topped with a heaping serving of blueberries (probably the closest anyone will get to antioxidants during TIFF) for a fruity finish.

The Oh Golly Molly! Martini honours the fabulous Molly Parker (Trigger). Just vodka and vermouth with olives or a lemon twist make this a simple (and boozy) choice for traditionalists.

(Image: Jack Dylan)

The first three sparkling wines to come out of Prince Edward County are taut, tender and dance across the palate: they taste more like champagne than any non-French bubbly I’ve ever tasted. The secret is in the dirt. The sunny farming region south of Belleville has almost as high a concentration of limestone in its soil as France’s Champagne district. Limestone is fissured and spongy, which allows vine roots to penetrate deep into the bedrock, and the wine it yields is full of refreshing minerality. The similarities in terroir and climate were so striking that two expat Torontonians, Jonas Newman, a former maître d’ at Scara­mouche, and his partner, Vicki Samaras, have opened Hinterland winery, the County’s first dedicated exclusively to bubbly. It’s one of 14 launches in the past year, bringing the total number of wineries to 31. The region once considered laughably marginal is full of undercapitalized but pioneering vintners. Many are eking out fewer than 1,000 cases from small acreages, making their wines scarce (most are unavailable at the LCBO) and expensive. But low yields create better quality wines. Here are some examples of PEC’s finest to seek out on your next, or first, trip.

SPARKLING

The Grange of Prince Edward
2007 Brut $29.95 | Prince Edward County | 90 points
The debut sparkler from the County’s largest winery has great minerality and depth of flavour. A mix of pinot and chardonnay and aged two years, it’s lighter than champagne. There’s good tension and ping, with toasty aromas and a mouth-watering finish. Try with oysters. grangeofprinceedward.com

Hinterland 2007 Les Etoiles
$39.20 | Prince Edward County | 90 points
Out of their converted dairy barn in Hillier, Jonas Newman and Vicki Samaras have crafted a standout pinot noir–based sparkler. Smelling of dried cherry, peach and almond, the pale pink wine is bone dry, with typical County mineral grip and excellent flavour concentration. hinterlandwine.com

Huff Estates 2006 Cuvée Peter F. Huff
$39.95 | Prince Edward County | 91 points
This chardonnay bubbly is a fine follow-up to the winery’s historic 2004—the County’s first sparkling wine. The nose wafts almond, lemon and apple pastry. It’s light bodied and creamy; the finish is slightly sweet, but brisk acidity keeps it in balance. Excellent length. huffestates.ca

Fruits of their neighbour: honey mangoes on display at a London market (Image: Jay Bergesen)

This week’s example of the “U.S. acknowledges Canada’s existence” trend comes in the form of mangoes, which seem to be right up there with prescription drugs on the list of items that Americans are willing to cross the border to buy. The Star reports that some Yanks are so in love with the fruit—Pakistani ones, to be exact—that they’re driving to Toronto to load up on cases of the stuff because the U.S. banned them for not meeting pest control standards.

Salivating yet? We called a local grocer to check on Pakistani mango stocks:

“I just got my shipment last night,” said Ali Popat of Kohinoor Foods at Gerrard and Coxwell. “They’re sweeter than sugar so they’re called honey mangoes. The chaunsa variety is the best. After the Indian mango season ends in June, the Pakistani mango season starts so we get calls from people as far as Michigan and Buffalo who drive all the way here. They buy four or five cases and eat them all before going home.”

U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton visited Islamabad last week in an effort to bring these forbidden fruit to her country. “I have personally vouched for Pakistani mangoes, which are delicious, and I’m looking forward to seeing Americans be able to enjoy those in the coming months,” she told the AP. “Trial shipments” of the stuff is slated to make their American debut later this year.

Elsewhere, Jordan lifted their five-year ban on the mangoes in 2009 and has placed a shipment for 125 tons of them after approving a way to wash the mangoes. Posh London department store Harrods also held a two-week long promo in June to raise buzz about the Kesar mango from India.

Four examples officially make it a trend. Take that, overpriced Yubari melons.

• Americans flock to Toronto to buy coveted Pakistani mango [The Star]
• Clinton Adds to Curious History of Mango Diplomacy [ABC News]
• Jordan lifts ban on Pakistani mango [Dawn.com]
• Reliance mangoes make it to Harrods [Times of India]

Ontario tomatoes (Photo by Daniel Shipp)

DUFFERIN GROVE FARMERS’ MARKET
The year-round Dufferin Grove farmers’ market is one of the oldest in the city. Vendors are from mainly organic farms, and you can do all your shopping here: fruits and veg, meat, and smoked fish from First Nation fishing operation Akiwenzie. Forager Jonathan Forbes always has something obscure on offer, whether it’s stinging nettle in springtime or paw-paws in the fall. Thursdays, 3–7. Dufferin Grove Park, 875 Dufferin St. (at Bloor St. W.). Open now.

EAST LYNN FARMERS’ MARKET
This market doesn’t have an organic focus, which has its advantages: corn, peaches and apples (all notoriously hard to grow in Ontario without some kind of pesticide) abound in late August. Braided local garlic is a big seller; if you buy a few for storage, you may be able to liberate yourself from the woody Chinese stuff. Thursdays, 3–7. East Lynn Park, 1949 Danforth Ave. (at Woodbine). Opens June 3.

EVERGREEN BRICK WORKS FARMERS’ MARKET
You might see Jamie Kennedy frying up some Yukon golds for his son’s chip stand. Cooks­town Greens always has something interesting; early in the season, look for Welsh onions. Watch for a St. Lawrence Market–style year-round food hall once construction finishes in September. Saturdays, 8–1. 550 Bayview Ave. (at the Bayview Extension). Open May 29.

GUILDWOOD VILLAGE MARKET
This picturesque market by the Scarborough Bluffs is the only market where you can buy chef turned organic farmer Elaina Asselin’s superlative heirloom tomatoes (she grows hundreds of varieties in all shapes and colours) from North­umberland County. It’s also one of the few markets to feature Fisherfolk’s sustainably harvested seafood from Nova Scotia. Thursdays, 2–6. 85 Livingston Rd. (at Guildwood Pkwy.). Opens June 10.